Just installed a vig 3600

What exactly do I need to change to keep the engine from hitting the rev limiter when shifting?

Also, Do I need to change the shift points? I have already worked on the shift feel, but not shift points.

I have a slight idle hunt at times. Several people have said to raise idle by 50rpm's. Are they talking about adding 50 to the entire "target idle speed vs. ect" table?

Is there anything else I should change? I am new to hp tuners. I understand the basics pretty well, but I have searched for days, and I can't seem to find the answers I need in easy to understand terms. A lot of good college did huh?Lol.

 

The converter lets your RPM "stretch" ahead of MPH.
Shift needs both MPH and RPM (at WOT) so you have
to back down the WOT MPH table. Then you need to
make the higher parts of the part throttle table blend
nicely, to that.

Up the idle a bit, I put mine to 700RPM. You may want
more when cold. You probably want to log your actual
idle airflow when stable and put the desired airflow to
close, but less, to catch it if it stumbles.

 

Thanks for the reply. I'm afraid I need a lot of help.

How much do I need to lower the wot mph table?

Do you have an example of what you mean by, "you need to
make the higher parts of the part throttle table blend
nicely, to that."?

"Where did you input 700 rpm? Are you talking about the whole "target idle speed vs. ect" table?

I'm confused. When you say "desired airflow" where are you refering to? I see a ton of things with "airflow" in the idle sections.

 

I'm interested about this as well, my car has been stumbling a bit when starting cold recently.

 

i have a problem where i adjusted my shift and mph at WOT and i hit the limiter on the
2-3 shift everytime.

BAsically, this is wat i did. I logged around with the default parameters. I was looking for mph vs rpm on the scanner. I did a few WOT pulls back to back, on the same scan file, for comparison. At first, though i dont recommend it since it is said to be murderous on the 4l'z, I manually selected the gear (e.g. "1") and ran i all the way to where i would like the shift to be and set the tables accordingly I did this for every WOT shift point except for the 3-4...that one i kinda guessed.

Though it isnt exact and it will take a few tries to get it right, and the fact that it is hard to do this without being at a track, it will get you close to your goals.

good luck!!

 

1. to a point where you know the mph will be slightly lower at that rpm you dont want them fighting another words in first if you are shifting at 6000 you know you arent going to be going 55 mph but instead set it to 39

2.change the entire idle table use common sense obviously warm up rpms might be 800 then when its up to temp drop it to 700 choice is yours.

4. Hit the f1 function key in hp tuners start reading also look at the stickies at the top, the guides and help files are great read them all

 

Try dropping the WOT Shift Speed mph by 10, then log a run. If it shifts where you want it to, fine. It might shift to early in which case you will need to bump it up 1-2mph & try again. Repeat until it's good. And the other table Jimmy talks about is the Shift Speed vs TPS vs Shift. THat one is critical for making a stalled car shift properly. Go to the HP Tune Repository & look at his tune, or mine to get an idea....

 

Ok. I think I'm starting to get the hang of this. Shifts are getting better every day. I may be able to live with this converter yet. For a while at least. I want to run the juice on the car in the future, so I'll probably end up changing the converter later on.

When cruising through town at around 50mph, when I give it enough throttle to speed up, it seems like it's going to 3rd every time. Maybe 2nd. I need to log it and see. What can I change to get the converter to unlock without going to a lower gear. Sometimes, I think I could speed up enough just by unlocking the tcc.