car wont start clicking noise from glove box
08-29-2005, 01:04 PM
#1
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car wont start clicking noise from glove box The other day I disconnected my battery to connect some loose wires I found by the rear amp by the antenna when I went back to connect the battery and start the car. on the on position every thing seam’s to be okay but when I turn it I get nothing like if the car had no power what so ever and when I let of I start hearing clicking coming from passenger side glove box its coming from the little black box.
Can some one let me know what that box is pleas.
And did I screw some thing up the battery is good checked all fuses everything is good was starting with no problems before.
Can some one let me know what that box is pleas.
And did I screw some thing up the battery is good checked all fuses everything is good was starting with no problems before.
08-29-2005, 01:43 PM
#2
TECH Senior Member
that clicking is likely the BCM
When you turn the key can you hear the fuel pump prime a little? If you turn the key it won't even crank? or it cranks but won't start?
Disconnecting the battery shouldn't cause a problem.
Make sure the battery has a good charge
what year is your car and how many miles? If it will crank but not start or if the fuel pump isn't priming, it could be a VATs issue... possibly the resistor in the key is mucked over a bit (easy fix, just clean it up a little) ... another common VATs related problem is the little wires in the key switch breaking... not sure if that caues the car not to crank
Also A4 or M6? I've seen M6 cars not want to start when there was a problem w/the clutch switch
When you turn the key can you hear the fuel pump prime a little? If you turn the key it won't even crank? or it cranks but won't start?
Disconnecting the battery shouldn't cause a problem.
Make sure the battery has a good charge
what year is your car and how many miles? If it will crank but not start or if the fuel pump isn't priming, it could be a VATs issue... possibly the resistor in the key is mucked over a bit (easy fix, just clean it up a little) ... another common VATs related problem is the little wires in the key switch breaking... not sure if that caues the car not to crank
Also A4 or M6? I've seen M6 cars not want to start when there was a problem w/the clutch switch
08-29-2005, 02:25 PM
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Battery has good charge, it's a 2000 ss 68000 mile's M6 when the key is in the on position every thing is cool like odometer and every thing else is on but when I turn the key it seam's like every thing goes out like the car never had a charge but when it goes back to the on position every thing comes back on then the box start's clicking the one behind the glove box.
08-29-2005, 02:48 PM
#5
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I had the same thing. It was the battery. Try another. You can have a good charge on your battery but the plates have worn/shorted. You can take the battery out and have it load tested at you local parts store to check. I did this and it passed. Unfortunately the car still didn't start. I bought a new battery and it started right away and has been working for the past three years. When you try to crank a car over large amount of amperage is required. Maybe more than those local battery testers expect. If the battery is more than a couple years old I would suspect that it cranking ability has lessen a bit. It would be a good idea to just try a new battery. I have also bought new batteries that were shorted right out of the box, so to speak. So, do not always assume a new battery means a good one. Just like any part you buy. You can buy defective parts to replace bad parts sometimes. Those are always the ones that upset me the most. 
It is possible that you have a bad connection on the battery, starter or solenoid. I also have had that problem on another car recently. Just clean the connections and tighten them is the answer to this type of problem.
It is possible that you have a bad connection on the battery, starter or solenoid. I also have had that problem on another car recently. Just clean the connections and tighten them is the answer to this type of problem.
Last edited by Mecinoid; 08-29-2005 at 02:54 PM.
08-29-2005, 02:57 PM
#6
TECH Senior Member
oh ok.. if the gauges all go dead like that then it's probably a bad connection
You can test it real quick by turning your headlights on, then have someone watch while you crank... if the headlights go dead or dim alot then it's a bad ground somewhere...
I would start by making sure the battery connections are plenty tight... then what you can do is leave the headlights on for a few minutes... if it's a bad connection, whereever that connection is should heat up from the draw of the headlights... feel around and see if you can find a hot spot
It's probably the ground on the battery, or the ground that connects immediately past the battery on top of the front fender
I just had a similar incident where everything seemed fine but when I tried to crank it, gauges would all go dead and nothing would happen... turned out my ground connection up front on the passenger fender was loose .. tightened it up and all was well
You can test it real quick by turning your headlights on, then have someone watch while you crank... if the headlights go dead or dim alot then it's a bad ground somewhere...
I would start by making sure the battery connections are plenty tight... then what you can do is leave the headlights on for a few minutes... if it's a bad connection, whereever that connection is should heat up from the draw of the headlights... feel around and see if you can find a hot spot
It's probably the ground on the battery, or the ground that connects immediately past the battery on top of the front fender
I just had a similar incident where everything seemed fine but when I tried to crank it, gauges would all go dead and nothing would happen... turned out my ground connection up front on the passenger fender was loose .. tightened it up and all was well
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08-29-2005, 05:09 PM
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I check all grounds cleaned and tighten them when I went to start the car the clicking was gone but the same thing happened at the on position every thing was cool but when I try to fire it up it just seems to go dead.
what I noticed wile I was doing this when the key is in the on position and I step on the brakes the voltage goes way down am not sure if it supposed do this but it look's like it goes from 14 to 7 really quick. I don’t know if that ill help find my problem.
but some little more help would be greatly appreciated.
I cant try the headlight and looking for the hot spot because it’s to hot outside.
what I noticed wile I was doing this when the key is in the on position and I step on the brakes the voltage goes way down am not sure if it supposed do this but it look's like it goes from 14 to 7 really quick. I don’t know if that ill help find my problem.
but some little more help would be greatly appreciated.
I cant try the headlight and looking for the hot spot because it’s to hot outside.
08-29-2005, 06:20 PM
#9
Check your starter wires. My 99z28 did the same thing even though the battery was fine. The car is an M6 and when i first learned how to drive a stick i stalled it quite a bit. After stalling it a few times in a row if i turned the car off for a few minutes or hours it wouldn't start. It was too intermittent to diagnose but when i tore the car down completely the starter wires were laying on the pass long tube header and melted through the wire. Make sure you don't have any shorts anywhere. I am sure that wire caused my problems because the insulation was melted through.
Greg
Greg
