Playing the Devils Advocate Again...
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 8,259
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From: Valrico, Florida
Playing the Devils Advocate Again... I was reading through old posts the other day and I have only seen a few cars dyno high with ls1edit done by sponsors that did not buy that sponsors H/C combo. Most of the cars that did have ls1edit done by that sponsor and did purchase from that sponsor dyno'd on avg 15 to 20rwhp higher than those who purchased H/C elsewhere. I know different combos lead to different results, but I also know a lot of people are unhappy with their results and refuse to post their results. Thats ok too, but if you are willing to share and I just have not read enough post then correct me. I will not use sponsors names myself.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 4
From: Valrico, Florida
Re: Playing the Devils Advocate Again... Not everyone goes to the track all the time. Dyno #'s show potential. A sucky driver can be the cause of bad track times.
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 231
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From: Wilmington, NC
Re: Playing the Devils Advocate Again... ttt-- I'm curious about what gains are being acheived-- whether the results are great or not shouldn't matter-- the point of this forum is to share experience so we are all better educated <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: College Station, Tx
Re: Playing the Devils Advocate Again... It really depends on quite a few things. Relative gains can easily be high if the car was not running correctly before (e.g. getting into knock/detonation), or of there were other basic problems (hyperactive knock sensor, reduced timing, MAF codes. If there was a problem abnormally lowering the power output before relative gains will be high.
There is also the question of how agressively dyno tuned a package is - since a spot on dyno tune will be to lean/to much advance for the track (unless you have a 2800lb car).
There is also quite a bit more to tuning than just dyno times. To do it correctly you need to drive the car around, monitor part throttle performance, etc. In an automatic, esp. with a large stall, you need to watch shift poitns, TCC clutch lockup, etc.
A good thing to check out would be the methodologies of the tuner in question. If they don't test drive your car, do road tuning, etc. prior to dyno tuning then I would be suspect of the results. You need to verify l-trims are proper, and get the car in a good drivable condition before you focus on WOT numbers.
All imho,
Chris
There is also the question of how agressively dyno tuned a package is - since a spot on dyno tune will be to lean/to much advance for the track (unless you have a 2800lb car).
There is also quite a bit more to tuning than just dyno times. To do it correctly you need to drive the car around, monitor part throttle performance, etc. In an automatic, esp. with a large stall, you need to watch shift poitns, TCC clutch lockup, etc.
A good thing to check out would be the methodologies of the tuner in question. If they don't test drive your car, do road tuning, etc. prior to dyno tuning then I would be suspect of the results. You need to verify l-trims are proper, and get the car in a good drivable condition before you focus on WOT numbers.
All imho,
Chris
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Re: Playing the Devils Advocate Again... </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Not everyone goes to the track all the time. Dyno #'s show potential. A sucky driver can be the cause of bad track times. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The MPH will always be the telling factor, not the ET. MPH = HP
Re: Playing the Devils Advocate Again... Chris, when the LTRIMs are finally in the negative range should all the values for each frequency be solid in the negative range or just the overall average of the values be negative?
Once you have them all negative and to go the PE vs RPM how do you know how much fuel to add/subtract? Also, at peak torque I believe I read that you said to richen it up hear. How much is advisable to richen it up by? (Assuming all done on WBO2) <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
Thanks.
PS: Vince, I have noticed some of the same things you have regarding dyno's on some cars.
<small>[ June 04, 2002, 11:51 PM: Message edited by: NastyC5 ]</small>
Once you have them all negative and to go the PE vs RPM how do you know how much fuel to add/subtract? Also, at peak torque I believe I read that you said to richen it up hear. How much is advisable to richen it up by? (Assuming all done on WBO2) <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
Thanks.
PS: Vince, I have noticed some of the same things you have regarding dyno's on some cars.
<small>[ June 04, 2002, 11:51 PM: Message edited by: NastyC5 ]</small>