2K1SS

Bank 2 sensor 1 problems

OK , were to start? Mods, Hotcam, lid, TTS LT’s

Problem,
02 bank 2 sensor 1keeps setting DTC’s and making the car run like crap, and is casing a miss at idle. Acceleration stumbles and cracks then pops. Once it “pop’s” it accelerates fine for 30-40 seconds till the throttle flattens out. The car will not want to pull past 3000 rpm with just a slight acceleration, If I down shift and get the RPM up gut a bit I can accelerate just fine.???

Changes done when this started,

The TTS headers, that’s it!
However, when we did them I spoke with some people and asked if it was going to be all right to extend the 02 sensors if they were short by soldering them and weather proofing them? I know this has been a problem with other people but as most posts I could not find a post were someone said “THAT WAS IT!!” once it was fixed. I have ordered some extensions but was wondering what else “COULD” be causing this hick-up incase that was not the problem.

I did a search on quite a few different things and did not see anything that said that some one has resolved such a problem and what the fix was?

If someone can lend some advice I would appreciate it.

My log numbers are like this:

ECT 78deg C

RPM 1966

IAT 13deg C

TP 4.31%

MAF 3809 & 18.8 gm/s

HO2 B1S1 73.8mV

HO2B2S1 1059mV

ADV 37deg BTDC

VSS51 km/h

HO2 B2S1 Voltage is as fallow;

Raw value 244
Scaled 1059mV
Min 91.1mV
Max 1106.8 mV
Average is 475.3

HO2 B1S1 Voltage is as fallows;

Raw value 17
Scaled 73.8mV
Min 8.7mV
Max 933.2 mV
Average is 462.3

Anyone have some advice??

<small>[ December 20, 2002, 12:20 AM: Message edited by: 2K1SS ]</small>

Team ZR-1

For 02s to properly function they have to get reference outside air and gets that through special wires that have an air channel under the wires insulation..
By cutting, splicing and sealing you have destroyed the reference air for 02 to compare to.

02 could have been wasted due to any welding if 02 were in the pipes, left dirt inside from welding and F's up the O2, or maybe wires were spliced to the wrong wire of PCM but in any case you cannot break the outside airsource 02s require.

What scanner are you using for it reports 02 readings of over 1059 mVolts which would mean the AFR is over the highest rich reading of 1 volt.

2K1SS

Im using EFI Live.

I have managed to reroute the bank 2 wires so that I can use one of my 02's that I have not modified on bank 2. And moved the spliced 02 over to bank 1 to see if it fallows the modified 02 sensor.

If for some reason Bank 2 continues to read the same I am going to be at a loss. Knowone I have talked to has ran into such a situation.

Thanks for you input. The car is my daily driver so I need to get it fixed ASAP! looks like my week end is already ploted out,lol.

Austrian Vette

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 2K1SS:
<strong> Im using EFI Live.

I have managed to reroute the bank 2 wires so that I can use one of my 02's that I have not modified on bank 2. And moved the spliced 02 over to bank 1 to see if it fallows the modified 02 sensor.

If for some reason Bank 2 continues to read the same I am going to be at a loss. Knowone I have talked to has ran into such a situation.

Thanks for you input. The car is my daily driver so I need to get it fixed ASAP! looks like my week end is already ploted out,lol. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Let us know what comes out after the switch to the other bank!

Good luck,

Michael

2K1SS

Now bolt banks are showing a heat cir. issue.

First bank2 then 15 minn-3 hours latter bank 1. New 02 did the same thing!!

Still searching?????

I'm going to add some baffles just down stream From the cats to see if some added back preassure will help for daily driving.
(recomended from muffler shop) I hope it don't set a Cat over temp DTC.

Sparky

A misfire on Bank 2 would also cause a really rich reading, and the issues you first describe.

Now you're getting heater inop codes? Just for ***** and grins, check the rear of the drivers side head. There are two ground studs and 3 PCM gound wires attached there. One of those is for the heater curcuit.

What are the exact codes you initally got and what are you getting now? Also, what is the switching status (cross-counts) on the sensors?

Mark

2K1SS

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Sparky:
<strong> A misfire on Bank 2 would also cause a really rich reading, and the issues you first describe.
Mark </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">What all would cause a missfire?
I have checked & replaced ALL the plugs.

Checked all;
wires
pushrods
springs
rockers
plug gaps
.....????
Basicly I checked the hole valvetrain, put the stock PCM flash back in and checked for an patern in the missfires (looks fairly equal) meaning no one cylinder stands out in a 5 minn idle session.

Ran some Octane booster on the previous TR6's then did a few WOT runs to try to get some sort of reading off of them!

And a few other things but cant remember right now! <img border="0" alt="[bang head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[bang head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" />

Colonel

"For 02s to properly function they have to get reference outside air and gets that through special wires that have an air channel under the wires insulation..
By cutting, splicing and sealing you have destroyed the reference air for 02 to compare to."

I've never heard that and my experience tells me it's not true. I extended mine out by adding extra wire. I didn't even solder, just used connectors. Works great.

It sounds to me like you didn't wire something up right. Two of the wires are the same color (light brown I believe.) Are you absolutely sure you didn't cross them up? Are you absolutely sure all connections are good?

BTW, O2 sensors are easy to damage.

Are you O2 readings bouncing back and forth at idle like they should be or are they locked at about .450mv?

2K1SS

The 02 are switchiig fine, (well ok for 34k miles) and the wires ARE wired correctly (light brown. There are litte letters on the plug and the 02 to verify the end-end connection.

How do I monitor the switching status (cross-counts) on the sensors?

I the codes are
PO155
PO135

Sparky

Fresh Air Reference:
This is needed and can be a problem but only if you splice right at the base of the sensor.

Cross-counts is a paramter in your scanner software. It tells you how often the sensors change above/below the required threshold.

You covered most of the miss possibilities expect fuel and vac leak . . . however,

If those are the codes you're getting, they relate to the heaters of both front sensors. The condition needed to set those codes is that the voltage from the sensors does not vary out of the 300 - 600mv range. (you might see the sensor readings changing within this range but as far as the PCM is concerned, they are not switching) If you clear the codes and the problem is still there, it could take up to 3 cycles to come back.

Since both fronts are not working (did you delete the rears in edit?) and the wiring is good, then look to power or ground. Ground is has a mentioned in the post above, through the PCM to one of the studs on the back of the driver's cyl head. Power is provided by the HO2S fuse. If the fuse is bad, look for a short to ground and fix it.

If the fuse isn't bad, the fun can start! Use a digital DVOM and check power from the voltage wire at the sensor connector to engine ground. If that looks good, then ground to the O2 plug circuit and see if it is still good.

Hope this helps!