Running Lean...how to fix this issue? (tuning newbie)
Anyone have anyideas? I'm a newbie at this tuning stuff
FYI: Before the port and polished MAF ends I was running a constant 12.3:1 A/F
Brian
PS...I'm really loving the extra gas mileage though <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
<small>[ April 15, 2003, 09:37 AM: Message edited by: 2K2CamaroSS ]</small>
can lead to a burned piston....
I would not pound on her or replace the stock ones till you get a good answer on getting more fuel to her... <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
14.5 is the leanest it gets, which is at 6000 RPMS, the rest of the time it bounces from 14.1-14.3:1
Is that a safe A/F ratio? or Should I get this corrected ASAP...(I had the stock MAF ends ported and polished so I don't have any ones that I can revert to.)
A/F -12.5:1 TO -12.8:1 at peak HP,
again I would baby her till you find out more for sure <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
The idea is to go as high as you can without knock. So, if you are 12.6(rich) and you would tweak the MAFT until you got 12.7, 12.8 and so on. With each run, you should have an increase in power the leaner you go. You would keep doing this until you detect knock and then back the MAFT down one notch. Typically, 12.8 is the best torque and 13.2 is the best HP
...
SO you want to make sure you are not getting any KR or pinging...
I hope this helps buddy. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
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On a side note... Can anyone tell me what the symptoms of a burnt piston are? Just curious.
Thanks!
<strong> Are you getting any KR? I am/was getting 4 degrees.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I have no idea what KR is so I really couldn't tell ya <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
You should autotap it to see what kind of KR you are getting. With a 14.5 a/f, you are surely getting some.
<small>[ April 16, 2003, 11:54 AM: Message edited by: MOBE ]</small>
see what these do for you? That's likely to
put you back to the normal tune, at least.
Otherwise you would want to increase fuel by
8-10% to get a proper WOT mixture. This is
within the MAFT's range but you have a zero-
cost option available to you....
a miss, loss of pwr, high oil comsuption,
positve pressure in crank case, ie if you removed oil cap while running a lot of blow by or air.
usually would loose a valve before a forged piston though. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
2K2CamaroSS
What I ment is say if you car was normal and your referace was 0 you would have x amount adustment both ways, but in a bad + or - condition would limit adjustibity.
Sorry did not mean to confuse ya, I did not state that well. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
<strong> well that's the thing...I ported and polished the Stock MAF ends so I don't have anything to revert to. I guess, I need to get a MAFT </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Buying a stock MAF would be cheaper than buying a MAFT! And get you out of a very dangerous situation!
The tiny gains that you get from that ported and polished MAF aren't going to be worth it when your motor is dead!

