LC1 to HP tuners
07-10-2006, 07:02 PM
#3
I hope you searched. Because there are tons of threads on this. Usually doesn't help though. Most of us are still confused on this mess. This is the most common connection diagram that soundengineer designed, different than what HPT tells you to do for some reason. But there are about a dozen different ways to connect these things and most are wrong it seems. 
http://www.audiohelix.com/tuning-documents/lc1/lc1.htm
http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2947
http://www.audiohelix.com/tuning-documents/lc1/lc1.htm
http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2947
07-10-2006, 08:00 PM
#4
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I just connected mine yesterday and it's working fine. Here's how I wired it.
Red - Switched 12v
Blue - Chassis ground
White, Green, Black (w/ LED wired in) - Grounded to different Chassis Ground and then wire run to EIO Port #5 (I don't know if it's really necessary to run the wire to the EIO)
Yellow, Brown - Run to EIO Port #1 (I don't use a gauge otherwise one of these would go there)
Like I said it's working great so far with minimal ground offsets.
Good Luck!
Red - Switched 12v
Blue - Chassis ground
White, Green, Black (w/ LED wired in) - Grounded to different Chassis Ground and then wire run to EIO Port #5 (I don't know if it's really necessary to run the wire to the EIO)
Yellow, Brown - Run to EIO Port #1 (I don't use a gauge otherwise one of these would go there)
Like I said it's working great so far with minimal ground offsets.
Good Luck!
07-10-2006, 09:59 PM
#5
Just as I was saying. Another way someone has connected theirs up like none of the advertised "correct" ways to do it but claims it's working. Grounding the green to chassis isn't even the way HPT suggest to do it or most people on this board nor do they suggest grounding EIO ground #5 to chassis ground. Also yellow shouldn't be connected to port 1 on the EIO, only brown. Here's how HPT suggest doing it in the Help Section but according to most, this is wrong too. 
07-10-2006, 10:41 PM
#6
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Originally Posted by HavATampa
Just as I was saying. Another way someone has connected theirs up like none of the advertised "correct" ways to do it but claims it's working. Grounding the green to chassis isn't even the way HPT suggest to do it or most people on this board nor do they suggest grounding EIO ground #5 to chassis ground. Also yellow shouldn't be connected to port 1 on the EIO, only brown. Here's how HPT suggest doing it in the Help Section but according to most, this is wrong too.
07-10-2006, 10:57 PM
#7
Heh....hell....I might just wire mine up like yours to try something different. Not having any luck with the traditional methods. 
Originally Posted by LoWeLL216
Actually the reason I wired it this way is because I originally had a bad LC-1 unit and while troubleshooting it Innovate told me to connect all grounds to the chassis and then run a separate wire to the EIO for the required connections. The wiring was still set up that way when I eventually got a new unit so I used it. I know what you're saying though, it's very frustrating to come across multiple wiring diagrams and then have a company tell you you're wrong for following their diagram...
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07-10-2006, 10:58 PM
#8
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Also, you're right about the yellow wire. I'll have to fix that. Not to hijack your thread, but is the signal the same for both the yellow and brown wire? It's weird because I have no issues with them wired together...
07-11-2006, 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by HavATampa
The yellow wire is the output for the narrowband sensor and the brown wire is the output for the wideband sensor.
07-12-2006, 03:21 PM
#12
why does my gauge not say 14.7 it jumps from 9.9 to 20 adn stuff shouldnt it read steady i know the senors goes rich - lean but doenst it average?
and at WOT its 9.8 somethings not right o2s are at 930-920 i wired and set it like the instructions said?
and at WOT its 9.8 somethings not right o2s are at 930-920 i wired and set it like the instructions said?
07-12-2006, 03:27 PM
#13
on ANY NARROWBAND SENSOR
they are only accurate on a completely stock vehicle..and even then they sometimes arent all that accurate...as soon as you mod the car and change the hear range of teh exhaust that hits it..all bets are off..
this is also why they make specific o2 for specific vehicles...
otherwise their would be a generic one we could all use...
they are also only accurate at stoich....nowere else...from day to day different temperatures will push the values off..
so one day WOT AF with a wideband at 13.0 might be 900mv on narrowbands..next day it might be 950mv
if your gauge is connected to a narrowband sensor...consider it a dummy gauge that acts like the car from the knight rider tv show
if you run a wideband full time..it can be connected to the narrowband output of the LC1 and then it will be accurate as teh narrowband output of teh LC1 is an exact copy of teh wideband actual AFR
they are only accurate on a completely stock vehicle..and even then they sometimes arent all that accurate...as soon as you mod the car and change the hear range of teh exhaust that hits it..all bets are off..
this is also why they make specific o2 for specific vehicles...
otherwise their would be a generic one we could all use...
they are also only accurate at stoich....nowere else...from day to day different temperatures will push the values off..
so one day WOT AF with a wideband at 13.0 might be 900mv on narrowbands..next day it might be 950mv
if your gauge is connected to a narrowband sensor...consider it a dummy gauge that acts like the car from the knight rider tv show
if you run a wideband full time..it can be connected to the narrowband output of the LC1 and then it will be accurate as teh narrowband output of teh LC1 is an exact copy of teh wideband actual AFR
