Hey guys I am trying to get an idea on how to tune this a little better. Would anyone with a Ls1 and bolt ons post your tune so I can check them out and see what direction I should head in.

Thanks

 

How can I send you the file? I "developed" a beastly tune for my 99 SS. Runs like a champ in moderate temperature weather. Runs a little lean when it's TEXAS HOT outside.

I put a similar tune on my Dad's Vette...now I can keep the tires from breaking loose.

Even with traction control on...I turned that beast almost sideways off the launch!

 

just post it here by using the manage attachments feature.

 

Well, I just uploaded it on the HP Tuners website...but i guess y'all have to approve it 1st.

Freaking A...I just noticed that down there. I usually just use the quick replies...didn't even realize the fuction down below...

I attached it...it looks like a .htm file though??...not .hpt. I "downloaded" it using the link though and opened it up in HP Tuners...it pulled all my specs.

 

yeah that is a mess. I cant open it.

thanks for e-mailing it, I got it and I have a bunch of questions.

1 why did you make the Stoich afr 12.8?
2 the master shift light said DO NOT enable if A/T what did it do?
3 how did you come up with the power enrichment settings?

Thanks man

 

jusr right click & rename it tune.hpt thats all, I've done it a bunch of times now just fine.

 

Ding Ding Ding .

I "saved target as," then right clicked on the icon and said to open it with HP Tuners...it worked just fine.

Foff, did you look at the tune, what did you think about it?

 

nope I didn't

 

any reason for changing your stoich parameter?

 

Well, I'm sure I'm wrong about this, but it seemed like 14.5... or whatever it was, was too lean, and I was my knock retard sensor was kicking on at WOT. It was killing my power! I lowered it to 12.8 and the pinging went away...the knock retard sensor stopped kicking on. I figured I did myself a favor.

 

To the original poster: this is the perfect example why you should NEVER take advice over the internet.

To you: you don't understand what this parameter does, so yes, you were wrong to adjust it. I'm just going to venture a wild guess you aren't tuning with a wideband O2 sensor either. If that is the case, I'm gonna give you one piece of advice: stop. Please. Take the time to learn what these parameters do before you go adjusting them like that. You aren't doing yourself any favors at all.

 

well Said Steve...the hardest part about tuning using help over the net is wading through the correct & incorrect information out there.

 

I just can't believe this quote...I don't know what disappoints me more. The quality of the "beastly" tune, or the fact that it's being given as an example of a good one

 

I'm installing a wideband tomorrow. What exactly does this parameter do then?

The car runs well, I'm still learning the program and yes, I have a long ways to go. No reason to be a dick about it...

It's easier to offer advice as to what I should be correcting verses insulting my intelligence or lack there of in this area...at least I'm trying. I'm very new to tuning and I've been collecting information from a variety of places to make one that works for me. Like I said...it's working and IMO, it's working quite well. I've seen absolutely no poblems with the car and I'm faster than vettes, firehawks, etc. I'm almost as fast as an 03 Cobra with exhaust and intake.

 

I think there is a reason to be a dick about it when you go off giving advice without giving the caveat that you don't have a lot of experience here. IMO, that is completely wrong, and you could end up doing more harm than good, especially if someone takes the advice without questioning it. The internet is a wonderful tool, but it also has a ton of bad information out there, this being one of the cases. It isn't that you aren't intelligent...it seems to me like you are just lazy (because you wouldn't be asking what this parameter does if you just read the help file).

Did you even read the HPT help file? It would tell you what this value does...the only reason to change it is if you change what type of fuel you run that has a different stoichiometric (chemically correct) value (E85 for example).

I may sound a bit brash, but I see a lot of this around here, and it seems like it is getting worse as time goes on. It gets old, and makes my head hurt. It makes baby Jesus cry too.

 

That's why there are "experts" like you to step in and advise people that this particular parameter shouldn't be messed with.
No, I'm not mixing alcohol in my fuel, etc. I know that's what the parameter is for...good ol Wikipedia.

So, what's the harm then with changes to this parameter? Like I said, it got rid of the knocking.

 

stoch afr is going to affect all your fueling it did richen up your afr at wot but its also is now giving it more fuel all the time. Have you seen a reduction in gas milage? The fueling tables are adders or mulitplyers...whatever, based off the stoch afr. Adusting pe or map or maf tables is a much better way to get the fueling correct for wot.

 

If you know that's what the parameter is for, and you know you aren't running an ethanol blend (which is not the same as adding alcohol to your fuel BTW), why did you adjust it? That's what is getting me here...

All of the fueling calculations are based off of this value. Tables that use equivalence ratios (like the PE table for example) reference this value. If it got rid of the knocking and your car runs great, I assure you, it was by dumb luck alone.

When you get your wideband installed, put this value back to stock before you do anything else (and actually, I'd recommend you do this right now before even if you don't start messing with the wideband). You need to tune the proper tables to get the desired results (PE table, VE table, and spark tables for starters).

 

For emmissions purpose, they add up to 10% ethanol to our fuel. At least around here they do. Well, therein lies the answer to crappier gas mileage.

The stoichiometric AFR for gasoline is 14.7 : 1
The stoichiometric AFR for ethanol is 9.0 : 1

90% of your 14.7 = 13.23. Since our cars are set at 14.628 I think, 90% would be about 13.165. I have mine set at 12.8 because I had advanced the timing to a point where the car began to knock. By adding more fuel I stopped that and the car runs strong. What's wrong with that?

 

Thanks for the attempt pdanrichey. How about the rest of you guys, anyone have a toon you feel is good that you would not mind me looking at?

I tend to learn better by looking at others tunes and seeing what they changed and then looking up why. The only guy that posted a tune was a beginer. Lets see what a "REAL" tune should look like.