Knock Sensor Code
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From: College Station/La Porte, TX
Knock Sensor Code Today i was driving and after a few minutes i noticed the SES light come on(first time in my 6 months of owning the car). I pulled into autozone to check the codes and the scanner comes back with a P0332 code, which is of course the knock sensor low input bank two blah blah blah. Anyways, i am wondering how i should go about fixing this, i did a search but nothing seemed to really help. We just had a 2 day freeze where the car was covered in a 1/4'' thick sheet of ice and this is just after i make the 190 mile trip back up to college. The idle is smooth and there are no abnormal noises coming from the engine. Should i hold off on driving the car? Could I have put bad gas in it? What should i do? BTW the car has 72k miles on it.
Any input is greatly appreciated.
Any input is greatly appreciated.
If you get water down in the knock sensor hole the sensor will corrode. It needs to be replaced. When the code is set, the PCM will default to the low octane spark table, so don't be surprised if it feels like a dog when you get on it. You can verify that the sensor is bad....with the car off, unplug the knock sensor harness at the back of the intake manifold. Take a multimeter set to read resistance and put one probe on one of the harness pins, and the other on a clean spot on the valley cover. You should get a reading of about 10K ohms. If it is significantly less than that, it's a bad sensor. Do the same thing to both pins on the harness. IIRC bank 2 is the rear sensor. New knock sensor should be about $60 at the dealer.
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From: College Station/La Porte, TX
Originally Posted by thunder550
If you get water down in the knock sensor hole the sensor will corrode. It needs to be replaced. When the code is set, the PCM will default to the low octane spark table, so don't be surprised if it feels like a dog when you get on it. You can verify that the sensor is bad....with the car off, unplug the knock sensor harness at the back of the intake manifold. Take a multimeter set to read resistance and put one probe on one of the harness pins, and the other on a clean spot on the valley cover. You should get a reading of about 10K ohms. If it is significantly less than that, it's a bad sensor. Do the same thing to both pins on the harness. IIRC bank 2 is the rear sensor. New knock sensor should be about $60 at the dealer.
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I just threw this code as well, didn't feel the need to start a new thread.
Just wanted to ask... If you're throwing this code, does that mean that the sensor itself is bad? Or does it mean that there's engine knock occurring and you need to check THAT out rather than the sensor?
Just wanted to ask... If you're throwing this code, does that mean that the sensor itself is bad? Or does it mean that there's engine knock occurring and you need to check THAT out rather than the sensor?
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its not bad to drive the car with tis code, but you'll need to replace the knock sensors, to avoid gettin knock retard at wide open throttle. mine was pullin 6 degress of KR, i switched the sensors, the light went off, and now i can feel a definite difference in WOT runs.
the intake isnt too tough to oull of, my first time took me about an hour to get it off. just be careful when you pull it off bc you can easily break the oil pressure sending unit lockated on the back driver sidde of the manifold. good luck!
the intake isnt too tough to oull of, my first time took me about an hour to get it off. just be careful when you pull it off bc you can easily break the oil pressure sending unit lockated on the back driver sidde of the manifold. good luck!
Originally Posted by Amoretti
I just threw this code as well, didn't feel the need to start a new thread.
Just wanted to ask... If you're throwing this code, does that mean that the sensor itself is bad? Or does it mean that there's engine knock occurring and you need to check THAT out rather than the sensor?
Just wanted to ask... If you're throwing this code, does that mean that the sensor itself is bad? Or does it mean that there's engine knock occurring and you need to check THAT out rather than the sensor?
It's almost certainly bad; water probably got into it.
If you tune your car, and you have your timing straight with no KR under normal conditions just turn it off until you swap them out. There is a table under engine/spark retard that is Max KR vs. RPM (PE) that you zero out until you swap them.
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If you tune your car, and you have your timing straight with no KR under normal conditions just turn it off until you swap them out. There is a table under engine/spark retard that is Max KR vs. RPM (PE) that you zero out until you swap them.
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No it shouldn't... The effect it will have is this: If you get knock at part throttle you will just have knock with no action taken. As soon as the car goes into PE though you will lose (I am almost sure 4 is stock) 4 degrees (which will show as KR when scanning) the whole time you are in PE. Yes, you will lose some power like this.
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From: NC STATE
I just recently replaced both of my knock sensors and I'm still throwing the same codes... I just paid 220 bucks to have it fixed and I'm on a college student budget which = $0. Any ideas what it could be? I've been driving the car, sometimes smokes on startup and seems to bog around 50. I have been racking my brain on this crap.
