Turo

iTrader: (23)

I tried the search but its not working like it should (won't let me search just this section of the forum)...

Anyways, my front O2's are fried (stock). I remember a while ago the bosch 13111's were the ones to get because of the better heat range. Then after that I read a few threads (here or on hptuners.com) saying how the 13111's were a waste of money because they offered no bebefit. What is the verdict as far as replacing these? Is stock the way to go, 13111's, or something else? Thanks!

burnrubr88

iTrader: (2)

x2

Turo

iTrader: (23)

I figured I'd give it one more bump before I went with OEM replacements.

Z ROADSTER

Go with NGK's if you can find them. Their best cost a little more but will last much longer and withstand octane boost & other chemicals better than stock even. There needs to be some independent testing done on these type of things including plugs, coils,wires etc.

ShevrolayZ28

iTrader: (4)

I have been through around 6 Bosch 13111 sensors in the past year. Advance Autoparts warranties them. But I've had it with them! Once the year warranty is up, I will have the car tuned speed density. No more MAF, no more friggen o2 sensors.

Edit: if I were to try another sensor, I would go with the GM ones. I guess those would be the AC Delco or Delphi.

Frost

iTrader: (45)

Speed density is a way of calculating air-mass; has nothing to do with your O2s. IF you don't reference them, you are running without feedback; open-loop control.

I have seen these 13111s help lots of cars that were lazy down low. The stainless headers seem to fair the worst (heat loss I'm guessing), and the 13111s don't always take care of stuff. After using these on literally dozens of cars that I follow closely I can tell you that there is problem with your setup if you are going through that many. Hell I use leaded fuel from time to time and mine last longer. You know that a torch can clean a fouled an O2 right? You don't have to throw them away...

Turo

iTrader: (23)

Really? Does that by any chance work with wideband O2's also? Beacause I accidentally ruined a wideband o2 by starting the car with one of the coil packs unplugged (running 4 cylinders only...doh!). The car ran EXTREMELY rich and killed the wideband. I may try that on the old sensor before I buy a new one.

Frost

iTrader: (45)

Oh heck yeah it does I fouled mine out running richer than 9.9:1 when doing my initial WOT turbo tuning....

ShevrolayZ28

iTrader: (4)

Oh damn! I didn't know that the o2 sensors were still referenced with SD tuning. I thought it was based strictly on intake calculations.

The replacement sensors are still free, on warranty, and the old ones are returned to the store, so I haven't bothered to torch them but thanks for the heads up. I've tried lots of stuff to get them to switch faster. I have used the GM troubleshooting procedure but it only points to a bad sensor.

If anyone is curious, here's the long story of my o2 sensors:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagnostics-tuning/583508-i-called-bosch-tech-re-slow-oxygen-sensors.html

Blacked Out

My O2's suck as well and I use the Bosch ones stated above with zero improvement. I almost wonder if there is so much heat loss due to my SS headers if I wrap them would it help the O2's? I have also read about making the holes and slots bigger in the O2's to get more heat in them.

00Corvette

iTrader: (1)

Yeah not to jump on here but I'm having the exact same problem with the exact same O2 sensor's??? I've replaced them about 2 or 3 times already and the code just came back on again...?
Donnie