EFI live tune suggestions
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 406
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From: Houston, Texas
EFI live tune suggestions now before i start i know that theres places where you can download tunes but i have a different problem...buddy of mine has EFI live so he can tune on his duramax, we purchased the license so that he can tune in my 1999 Z28 but the thing is I don't want to change things and screw something up...can someone give me some direction, my mods are small and in my sig, what could i change to get the most out of the car RIGHT now. Thanks for all the help guys..and gals
you could start with the transmision by reducing some of the torqe reduction d0801 02 03 by 10% increasing line pressure d0701 02 03 by 10% lower shift times d1108 09 10 to .2 this wont net any power but use the power you have better
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 144
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From: Elmhurst,IL
Originally Posted by maroboy28
anyone have any tips on spark advance/retard??...shift points, firmness....anything like that
i'm pretty sure increasing your line pressure should increase your shift firmness.
10% won't be noticeable on the torque reduction....try 50%. 
Personally, I then like to take the torque reduction table from the 2>3 shift and copy it over to the 3>4 shift after I did the 50% reduction. This is because there is no TR on the 3>4, which is one of the weaker points in the 4L60E. If you do hit the 3>4 WOT, this is an added safety measure.
As for the pressures and desired times, I'd suggest small changes. 5% increase in pressure is a decent step size. As for desired times, don't go below the .15~.2 seconds like mentioned above.
Fans can be dropped 20*F on/off.
The timing is pretty decent on the 99s, so I'd probably let it be. Besides, you really should be on a dyno before messing with it.
Same goes for AFR....you'll want a WBO2 before messing with PE.
Personally, I then like to take the torque reduction table from the 2>3 shift and copy it over to the 3>4 shift after I did the 50% reduction. This is because there is no TR on the 3>4, which is one of the weaker points in the 4L60E. If you do hit the 3>4 WOT, this is an added safety measure.As for the pressures and desired times, I'd suggest small changes. 5% increase in pressure is a decent step size. As for desired times, don't go below the .15~.2 seconds like mentioned above.
Fans can be dropped 20*F on/off.
The timing is pretty decent on the 99s, so I'd probably let it be. Besides, you really should be on a dyno before messing with it.
Same goes for AFR....you'll want a WBO2 before messing with PE.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 406
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From: Houston, Texas
thanks for all the feedback guys, I might have a dyno that I can get ahold of but if that falls through do ya'll think that a place with a dyno would let me just do some pulls while I was plugged into the laptop??...or would they have to be plugged in
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 406
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From: Houston, Texas
Alright update on the tune, I'm having Bryan Pavlock tune it this sat.....since my last post i've added a few things including the LS6 intake, LT's, ORY and i finished up the free mods....i have some suggestions on the tranny tuning, and i was just wondering if there were any others......ALSO, since im only a bolt on car is it possible for me to get my A/F adjusted off the rolling road.....and still have it be RIGHT and not leave me running rich/lean at certain RPM's. Just tryin to figure out if its worth it for me to pay extra for the dyno when im still runnin a stock cam.
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Alright update on the tune, I'm having Bryan Pavlock tune it this sat.....since my last post i've added a few things including the LS6 intake, LT's, ORY and i finished up the free mods....i have some suggestions on the tranny tuning, and i was just wondering if there were any others......ALSO, since im only a bolt on car is it possible for me to get my A/F adjusted off the rolling road.....and still have it be RIGHT and not leave me running rich/lean at certain RPM's. Just tryin to figure out if its worth it for me to pay extra for the dyno when im still runnin a stock cam.
.Even better then a dyno imo is to tune for WOT at the track, real world is better then simulated (dyno) if you have the time to go to the track and do it.
