Eighty7camarokid

iTrader: (4)

I have a 98 Z28. A4. Basically, the car starts when it wants to. I can sit there and crank it till the brand new battery is completely drained, recharge it, and it will fire. This isnt the case every time, but you can see my frustrations. It has spark, cause it will run off of starting fluid, but sputter out once all of it is gone. It has fuel pressure, a nice 58lbs, and yes, it does build pressure back up if I discharge the fuel, so the pump is good. I tried the noid lights in the injector harness, got no pulse, for that time. The wiring harness is hacked up pretty good and I did my best to put it back together, but its like, when I bought it, it had no trouble starting at all, it just started doing one day out of the cold blue.

I took it to a local F-Body shop, they cleaned the PCM connections and such. It fired up every time in its month long stay at their shop (30-40 times). I bring it home, within a week, its back to where it was.

Today, it would not start, so I pulled the injector fuses, put them back in, and it fired right up. Went out in a different car, bought all new fuses, replaced them, and it fired right up again. About an hour later, wouldnt start. I tried pulling the fuses again, and didnt start after I out them back in.

I really need this car for school. My mom had to drive me to school and work everyday first semester and she CANNOT do it this semester. She lost several thousands of dollars off of her paycheck just to get me around to work and such.

Please someone help me. I have to have this car.

venomhp

iTrader: (13)

what about fuel regulator? check all your grounds, clean up terminals...possible check valve on fuel pump?

Jon5212

iTrader: (2)

If you suspect is something electrical, and as you said your wiring harness is hacked up... you may look into just buying an all new wiring harness. I would imagine something is probably grounding out temporarily.

Doc

iTrader: (9)

Sounds like the fuel enable signal has been lost due to a break down in the theft deterant system. Specifically, the key tumbler encoder is not recognizing your passkey and the body control module is interpreting the event as a theft. If you wait 3 mins after the event the bcm will allow a start.

You have two options

1) pull the steering wheel and r/r the key encoder module
2) determine which of the 15 passkey resistance values you have with your key and go to Radio Shack and get the corresponding resistors and install them inline with the white with black stripe wire on the bcm to ground to bypass the whole system.

No, you cannot just disable the anti-theft feature in the software.

m6speed

iTrader: (11)

find someone with hp tuners or something to disable vats and see if that does the trick

aknovaman

iTrader: (7)

Where is the car physically located?

If you can send me the PCM I can dis-able the VATS for free. You pay shipping.

wait4me

iTrader: (10)

Vats would already be gone if the vehicle was running guys. That ecm would shut down always at 3 seconds and he would not have had it work at all if that was the case.

I would check the pink wires on the injector while you have this issue. It is probably a cut line or shorted/burnt one.

For 220 we tear the harness down and fix all the scarey stuff.

Eighty7camarokid

iTrader: (4)

Im pretty sure this harness is beyond salvaging. The red wire that controls 2ndm 3rd, 4th, and the speedo is literally laying on the intake. The car is located in Troy IL, about 20 miles outside of St. Louis. I will also see if I can find somebody with hp tuners as well.

Eighty7camarokid

iTrader: (4)

Ok. It actually started today and I noticed something, the security light didnt come on when I tried to start it. So would that have something to do with VATS?