00WS6WHITE

iTrader: (1)

The first time I hooked it up, I hooked it up to my narrowband O2 sensor that is already in the car. I didn't know there was a difference at the time. I figured they where all the same. I know that im stupid you dont have to tell me. Well than after I talked to my tuner he told me it wouldn't read correct like that. So I went had a bung weld'd in right after the y-pipe. Put the brand new wideband O2 sensor in there that came with the gauge. Followed the instructions let it heat up outside the exhaust for however many min's it said to do and that stuff. Even after that the damn thing has never read correctly. At WOT it read 10.4-5 and a cruise it's all over the place and on decel its at 10.3 and idle I think it's at 7.7-8. I was wondering if maybe the O2 sensor is bad or did I screw up the installing it somehow or is the digital guage messed up?

I didn't hook it up to my labtop the 1st time around. I reread the instructions and it says to hook up the DB-9 cable to the out connector than launch LM programmer. But the hook up on the cable is female and my labtop is female too. So I can't do that.

I know the gauge is not reading right because the air/fuel ratio looked good when we dynoed it and my tuner hasn't messed with the tune. Just put it from SD to mass air since the dyno.

Thanks for the help,
Jimmy

DirtyJohn

iTrader: (8)

Re-do the free-air calibration?
Is it grounded properly and the status light solid like it should be when fully warmed up?

DirtyJohn

iTrader: (8)

Also, you prob don't have a COM port on your laptop, you can buy a USB converter for the supplied DB-9 cable tho, I did so I can monitor HPT and the Logworks software concurrently.

lastcall190

iTrader: (36)

Like said above... do a free air calibration and even a heater calibration. Takes about 3 minutes and is good piece of mind to have. Check for exhaust leaks too, I was told that any type of leak up to ~16" from the sensor can play tricks with it. The LC1 is awesome when it works, but is a finicky piece of **** if not setup correctly.

EDIT: just read you put it after the y-pipe, do you have cats? I only see STS in your sig so I'm going to assume you don't... if you do, I would put the sensor pre cat. If you are !Cats then disregard.

-J

00WS6WHITE

iTrader: (1)

I think my grounds are good, I don't really know. I'm gonna redo my grounds tomarrow and redo the calibration stuff. Maybe it will fix it. Thanks for help.

Eagle02

iTrader: (20)

Make sure that status light is solid. I too just went thru the issues you're describing and it turned out my wiring was off (my status light never worked ) and the sensor was in a constant state of calibration as a result! I fixed up the wiring and programmed the sensor to update @ the 1/6th speed and everything is AOK now.

-Eagle

00WS6WHITE

iTrader: (1)

I didn't install the status light. I figured it said optional on the wiring directions so I said screw it. LOL I guess I will wire it up too when I go back and check my wiring and grounds tomarrow.

Ackattack1

iTrader: (7)

I wondering if you hooked up the wrong wire to your gauge. One of the wires (yellow or brown) is programmed to "look" like a narrow band and the other one will be the normal wideband signal. The narrowband signal is 0-1v, while the wideband is 0-5v. I can't remember which color is which, but I initially connected mine wrong, until I read the directions carefully.

Good luck!

00WS6WHITE

iTrader: (1)

I have the yellow wire hooked up to the gauge. Im gonna try the brown now. This was from the manual. Also I have a purple wire that is coming from the guage that the instructions don't list. Where does it hook up too? I don't even have it hooked up.

Optionally, the YELLOW (Analog out 1) and/or BROWN (Analog out 2) can be connected
to the analog inputs of other devices such as data loggers and ECUs. If either one or both of
these wires are not being used isolate and tape the wire(s) out of the way. The default analog
outputs are as follows: Analog output one is 1.1V = 14 AFR and .1V = 15 AFR. This is a
simulated narrowband signal. Analog output two is setup as 0V = 7.35 AFR and 5V = 22.39
AFR. Note: The LC-1’s heater ground and system ground wires should be grounded at
the analog input’s ground. Refer to chapter 2.2 for recommended wiring schematics

00WS6WHITE

iTrader: (1)

Ok I think I got it fixed. I hooked up the brown wire did the free air calibration again. The 1st run I made I started in 2nd, 2nd and 3rd gear it was 13.8 at WOT. Then when I went into 4th it went to 14.3 ending at about 110 mph. So I decided to do a dig. 1st-4th it climb from 12.8 to 14.8 ending at about 120 mph. I don't think this sounds good. It was a 41 degree when my tuner tuned it in SD and now it's back in SD on a 67 degree day. Would that have anything to do with it? I think cruising it was 14.3-5. What do yall think?

ProgGod

Sounds pretty lean to me. I would defintely get it tuned. You want your AFRs under 13 at WOT.

00WS6WHITE

iTrader: (1)

Yeah that's what I have been told. I don't think the WB is still reading right. Im going over to a buddies house to hook his LM-1 up to it tonight and see if the WB is wrong or the tune is WAY off.

aircrewjake

The question that I have is If I hook the analog out 1 in place of my car's stock o2 will it work the same way the stock 02 sensor worked, and will the the digital output still work just fine?
I was also wondering how most of you guys wire the or sensor in the the ignition circuit so that it turns on with the car. I deal mostly with mechanicals not wiring so much so this install is actually quite challenging.

ProgGod

Look through your fuse box and find something that turns on just with ignition. You can use one of those tap a fuse adapters to tap into it, or go directly into the wire. Then use this power to power a relay which should hook directly up to the battery power.

As for the analog output you should be able to search to find the answer to that. It basically works like you say.