ChevyNo1

I was out the other nite and got on it, and both hoses blew off my Greddy Profec-B black box . . . don't know how much boost the engine saw for a split second, but it set the SES light and the car died. I coasted to a stop, turned off the key, and the car started. So I got these codes that won't go away, I reset with ATAP but after a few miles they come back on, low sensor input. Why would they keep coming back, and what do I need to do to fix it? I've never had this problem until the other nite . . .

Thanks!

- Dug

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

your knock sensor probably went bad
P0327 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Low Input (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0332 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low Input (Bank 2)
try replacing it
when It goes bad your engine will die because it retards the timing hard and immediate....then your car goes into "SAFE" or "LIMP" mode. Dont push too hard unless you have custom tuning and the pcm will not re-learn.

ChevyNo1

Thanks for the answer . . . it just doesn't make sense to me that both sensors would die at the same time, from this occurrence . . . and the car actually did not go into any limp-home mode as I expected . . . it still runs strong! I haven't gotten on it hard because of this, but it's running normally . . . so seeing way too much knock all at once can kill the sensors??

- Dug

ChevyNo1

TTT

strokedls1

iTrader: (1)

Check the coneection to see if it might of come unpluged or burnt on something. One of my friends had a sensor that came disconnected, and was pulling four degrees (max knock) at wide open conditions. You could pull the intake and check the sensors to make sure the connection are ok. I couldn't see both failing at the same time.

ChevyNo1

Thanks Stroked . . . I did a couple of short WOT blasts this morning, and sure enough, it goes right to 4 . . . and my timing was reported by ATAP as 9!!!! I'll give the connection a try.

- Dug

minivette

I agree, check the connections. Since you blew hoses off and you are getting codes for both knock sensors, I'd check the wiring.

NicD

iTrader: (7)

Yup, Doug I would check the wiring connection to the knock sensors. It may have come undone if it is throwing both codes at the same time. When you have a knock sensor code the computer will pull 4 degrees at WOT by default at all times. The PCM will not go into a limp mode nor will it die perse, it will just pull 4 degrees. You can drive the car as hard as you want to, it will just have less timing and HP.

ChevyNo1

Thanks Nic . . . do I have to pull the intake to check the connection??

- Dug

minivette

There should be a connection at the very rear of the intake. (sorta passenger side)

Predator

Yup, both codes are either the KS wire, or the pcm.

NicD

iTrader: (7)

The intake can be left on, just gotta reach back there to grab the connector and make sure its OK.

jeromio

Service manual says that each signal should be 93-107KOhm at rest. If you have your ohmeter connected to one signal lead, use a wrench to bang on the block (not the intake) and you should see spike's of resistance. Otherwise, the sensor is bad.

So, with this code set, the program will only alter timing, not mixture?