what did you do to your firebird today?
#1743
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Once i get around to it im about to order a boat load of parts Including:
SLP Spec shocks/Struts (Speed Inc)
Springs (Strano)
PHAB true dual/dumped exhaust (ebay)
ADJ PHD, LCA, LCA-RB, SFC, STB (Founders)
Moroso Spiralflo bullets (Summit)
4.11 gears (Summit)
LT Race Version Headers (SpeedEngineering)
Granetelli Lid (RPMspeed)
Its too cold out... and i hate looking at parts just sitting there waiting to be put on... So ill order them when it gets warmer and im more excited
SLP Spec shocks/Struts (Speed Inc)
Springs (Strano)
PHAB true dual/dumped exhaust (ebay)
ADJ PHD, LCA, LCA-RB, SFC, STB (Founders)
Moroso Spiralflo bullets (Summit)
4.11 gears (Summit)
LT Race Version Headers (SpeedEngineering)
Granetelli Lid (RPMspeed)
Its too cold out... and i hate looking at parts just sitting there waiting to be put on... So ill order them when it gets warmer and im more excited
#1744
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
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Well the cheap PURE ENERGY Alternator I bought off of Rock Auto is pretty much a paperweight, so tomorrow I will be shipping it back for a refund and replacing it with an AD244 from NAPA. The one pictured is my original Alt. On Tuesday, shes getting a new headlight motor.
#1750
TECH Resident
iTrader: (17)
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Finished up the T56 swap and went for a drive. Got badgered at Advanced about buying a K&N from a guy who really didn't even know what they were despite claims otherwise.
http://www.red2kta.com/2014/02/11/dr...e-swap-wrapup/
http://www.red2kta.com/2014/02/11/dr...e-swap-wrapup/
#1751
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
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Got a 80.5 and that fit on there nicely. Sadly, I'm STILL have a charging issue even with a new battery. Couldn't find any corroded, broken, loose or frayed wires or connections. I'm sick of having to work on it at sub 15 degrees so its going to the shop tomorrow.
#1753
TECH Regular
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I'm almost positive its the exciter wire since my volts ( both times ) were right around 12 and slowly dropped as the battery drained. Just seems like the Alternators aren't even kicking on at all.
Last edited by Kevin Lee 487; 02-12-2014 at 01:42 PM.
#1754
TECH Resident
iTrader: (17)
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I've been going here for a couple years now and they haven't given me any issues before but I still have the original alternator if they try to pull that. I also explained that its having the same exact charging issue with the AD244 alternator as it was with the CS130 I had replaced my original one with with the first time.
I'm almost positive its the exciter wire since my volts ( both times ) were right around 12 and slowly dropped as the battery drained. Just seems like the Alternators aren't even kicking on at all.
I'm almost positive its the exciter wire since my volts ( both times ) were right around 12 and slowly dropped as the battery drained. Just seems like the Alternators aren't even kicking on at all.
#1755
TECH Regular
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Have you checked the PS pump to make sure it isn't leaking? I encountered that problem last spring. Stock unit failed, put in the truck alt and it lasted maybe 5-6 months before I had to replace it again. I went ahead and replaced the PS pump when I swapped the alt a second time and haven't had an issue since then.
And the first replacement alternator was put in on this past Saturday morning, so it wouldn't have died that fast unless I was leaking a colossal amount of PS fluid. I do lose PS fluid very slowly ( about 1qt since I got the car in June ) but I'll definitely keep an eye on that and see if I can find the exact spot its leaking when it starts to get warm again.
Edit : Heres a breakdown
Got car in June, notice the Voltage mostly hovered dead on 13, dropped into the yellow at idle once in a while ( like once a month if that, and it only happened when it was wet/snowy outside ). Lights dimmed to accompany this until I began moving and it was fine for the rest of the trip.
Couple weeks ago, the voltage was down in the yellow pretty much the whole time I drove the car for a couple days. Trip meter would reset and gauges would sweep on startup. ( Common issue on 99s. Caused by low battery voltage ) the volts would go back to normal only after I revved it to 5k or so. Parked the car while I waited on the replacement alternator to ship.
Replaced alternator with a factory unit this past Saturday. 2/8/14. Volts at 12, would not increase under any circumstance. ( This did NOT happen with the original alternator ) Slowly dropped over the course of the day. Got my battery replaced, ( Vatozone read it at 11 volts so they just gave me a new one under warranty ) volts were back at 12 and slowly dropped again.
Figured the alternator I got was a dud so I got my AD244 from NAPA ( which I was originally going to get, but decided against it at the last minute due to online prices ) and it did the same EXACT thing as the first replacement alternator. Couldn't find any corrosion, breaks, spliced wire, etc. Checked all my connections for looseness and everything is nice and tight.
I could understand the first battery being bad ( even though I bought it over the summer ) and even the first alternator. But the 2nd battery is good and the AD244 I got was bench tested on 3/1/14 so the odds of either the alternator or the battery being the culprit really seems like a longshot. This is the first time I've replaced an Alternator ( or really done anything on my car for that matter ) so it seems far more likely that I possibly damaged the exciter wire while replacing the alternator the first time.
Last edited by Kevin Lee 487; 02-12-2014 at 06:43 PM.
#1756
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Greensboro, NC
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Walked outside saw car covered in six inches of snow, took a couple pics since that's a rare sight around here, turned back around and went inside. Now its sleet and ice coming down.
#1758
That's MISTER MODERATOR
iTrader: (9)
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Keven Lee:
First off, the cluster resetting is because of the faulty chip in it. It's more likely to happen when the battery voltage is low and/or it's cold out. There's a fix for that....
Secondly, it appears the alternator isn't getting the charge cycle signal from the PCM. I would suggest you follow the wire from the exciter plug to the PCM.
It's possible the PCM is at fault.
I hope this helps:
First off, the cluster resetting is because of the faulty chip in it. It's more likely to happen when the battery voltage is low and/or it's cold out. There's a fix for that....
Secondly, it appears the alternator isn't getting the charge cycle signal from the PCM. I would suggest you follow the wire from the exciter plug to the PCM.
It's possible the PCM is at fault.
I hope this helps:
![](http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u316/pbellsound/alternator_zps749d877c.jpg)
#1760
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
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Keven Lee:
First off, the cluster resetting is because of the faulty chip in it. It's more likely to happen when the battery voltage is low and/or it's cold out. There's a fix for that....
Secondly, it appears the alternator isn't getting the charge cycle signal from the PCM. I would suggest you follow the wire from the exciter plug to the PCM.
It's possible the PCM is at fault.
First off, the cluster resetting is because of the faulty chip in it. It's more likely to happen when the battery voltage is low and/or it's cold out. There's a fix for that....
Secondly, it appears the alternator isn't getting the charge cycle signal from the PCM. I would suggest you follow the wire from the exciter plug to the PCM.
It's possible the PCM is at fault.
Edit : Picked her up from the shop. The exciter wire pigtail was the culprit. We have voltage again Cap'n! And to make it up to her for being down for a week, I took her for a nice hot bath too. Were back in business.
Last edited by Kevin Lee 487; 02-13-2014 at 02:00 PM.