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Turn signal question for WS6?

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Old 01-28-2011, 10:37 PM
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Default Turn signal question for WS6?

Hey guys, my front right turn signal keeps going out, I've replaced the bulb on it about 3 or 4 times now in the past year and a half. Have any of you guys had the same issue with your TA's? I remember when I first bought the car my left one went out and I took it to the dealer and they fixed it for a little over $200..yeah, I didn't know any better lol. I believe they replaced the whole housing for it? Any of you know how to fix this issue instead of replacing the bulb everytime it goes out?
Old 01-29-2011, 07:13 AM
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Very common with these cars. The bulbs stay on bright as daytime running lights.

$200 to change a bulb? I have a bridge you might be interested in lol...
Old 01-29-2011, 08:35 AM
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Remove the bulb from the recepticle and check for severe corrosion. Thats what kills'em. $8 at your local autozone in the oem section. Cut the old one out and splice the new one in and should be good.

Heres where I found the info awhile back: https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...r-problem.html
Old 01-29-2011, 02:36 PM
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autozone part number is 85881.
Old 01-29-2011, 05:00 PM
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You do not need to cut and splice...you can take apart the socket. The inner part pops out and then pull the pins out and slide the wires out, then scrub off any corrosion and reinstall with new socket.
Also to prevent this from happening again, drill a 1/4" hole in the bottom of the light housing to allow water to drain. The housings will have minor leaks, allowing water to collect, which causes the corrosion.
Old 01-29-2011, 06:57 PM
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Thanks guys for the help..this has been bothering me for the longest time now. Thanks throttlejunkie1 for the link on that write-up, I think I need to do that since the socket seems to be really corroded (I tried putting a ton of dielectric grease in there the last time I replaced it and it still went out after a few months). Have any of you guys had problems with one turn signal light being dimmer than the other? I have been buying the bulb from autozone but it seems to be dimmer than the drivers side that the dealer fixed for me. Is it a different light bulb? Do I need to replace the housing too because it seems like water is getting in there.
Old 01-29-2011, 07:05 PM
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Hi,
you may want to use posi-lock connectors =simple to use. Just insert wire and twist to lock. Connection complete and water resistant.have a blessed day'''
jim
Old 01-29-2011, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by jim ravencraft
Hi,
you may want to use posi-lock connectors =simple to use. Just insert wire and twist to lock. Connection complete and water resistant.have a blessed day'''
jim
Instead of splicing it together?
Old 01-29-2011, 08:15 PM
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hi,
that is correct.check private message/////////////jim
Old 01-29-2011, 10:00 PM
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These Jim?
http://www.posi-lock.com/
Old 01-30-2011, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by throttlejunkie1
Remove the bulb from the recepticle and check for severe corrosion. Thats what kills'em. $8 at your local autozone in the oem section. Cut the old one out and splice the new one in and should be good.

Heres where I found the info awhile back: https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...r-problem.html
I did what he said...lol...spliced it right in...soldiered it and electrical tapped
Old 01-30-2011, 03:47 PM
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Why cut any wires when you don't have to?

I converted my TA over to LED DRLs, including new housings and electronic flasher module for less than $200.
Old 01-30-2011, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Saturn5
Why cut any wires when you don't have to?

I converted my TA over to LED DRLs, including new housings and electronic flasher module for less than $200.
write up on this anywhere?
Old 01-30-2011, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by thefridgews6
write up on this anywhere?
Yeah, search for DRL LED and you'll find tons of info. I found everything I needed on here, including the model number of the needed flasher, etc.

I also disassembled and replaced the sockets without cutting and splicing the wires. There's a link to that write up on here as well.

I didn't change the operation of my LEDs. You can't tell I've changed anything from stock, although the LEDs aren't quite as bright as incandescent bulbs, you probably wouldn't notice looking at my car unless you had something to compare it to.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...chbacks-3.html
(I used normal amber LEDs, not switchbacks, but the basic info is the same)

Here's a writeup on how to change the socket without cutting and splicing any wires:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/11115320-post8.html

New DRL housings from sponsor WS6 Store: http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...ath=235_83_366

The flasher you want is an "EL12". I got mine at AutoZone.

I also left the regular lights everywhere else. I'm only using LED DRL/turn signal bulbs since those were the only ones burning out frequently.

Last edited by Saturn5; 01-30-2011 at 06:46 PM.
Old 01-30-2011, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Saturn5
Why cut any wires when you don't have to?

I converted my TA over to LED DRLs, including new housings and electronic flasher module for less than $200.
uhh if you have to replace the socket, you have to cut the wires...it's like a $10 part...

and you say LED DRL's ( as in daylight running lamps? )...I was referring to the turn signal??
Old 01-31-2011, 12:15 AM
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Offroad, did you take apart the socket to look at the wires? Like I mentioned before, you do not have to cut and splice...my original socket was pretty corroded, but when I removed the socket, the wires were not bad, just used some steel wool to clean them up. The part that actually makes contact with the bulb gets replaced with the new ones, which was what was actually corroded on mine.
Old 01-31-2011, 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by peterlawl84
Offroad, did you take apart the socket to look at the wires? Like I mentioned before, you do not have to cut and splice...my original socket was pretty corroded, but when I removed the socket, the wires were not bad, just used some steel wool to clean them up. The part that actually makes contact with the bulb gets replaced with the new ones, which was what was actually corroded on mine.
no, the inside of my socket looked like it caught fire...I clicked that link and seems that socket comes with the whole wiring. the one I got from advanced auto had only a few inches of wiring...but my turn signal works fine now, since I bought it ( which was when I discovered the turn signal out ).
Old 01-31-2011, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by offroadfury6
no, the inside of my socket looked like it caught fire...I clicked that link and seems that socket comes with the whole wiring. the one I got from advanced auto had only a few inches of wiring...but my turn signal works fine now, since I bought it ( which was when I discovered the turn signal out ).
After clicking the link, it would have been helpful to carefully read the page.
If the wiring in your original socket is not damaged, you can disassemble the socket and remove it from the wiring. You then do the same with the new socket and assemble the new socket onto the original wires.

The only time you need to cut and splice is if you have wire damage.
Old 01-31-2011, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Saturn5
After clicking the link, it would have been helpful to carefully read the page.
If the wiring in your original socket is not damaged, you can disassemble the socket and remove it from the wiring. You then do the same with the new socket and assemble the new socket onto the original wires.

The only time you need to cut and splice is if you have wire damage.
disassemble it? pfft too much work...splice it, solder it, and electrical tape it, done...
Old 01-31-2011, 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by offroadfury6
disassemble it? pfft too much work...splice it, solder it, and electrical tape it, done...
Splice it, solder it, electrical tape it, done?? PFFT TOO MUCH WORK!

Strip it, crimp it, heat gun it DONE.


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