Sad Day - My mechanic dropped my car from his lift
#41
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Easy fix really. You can bend a stock PHB by hitting bump going thru a curve. Panels look to line up well. Try the TTops yet? doors open like they did? hatch line up? hood to fender gaps ok? I've seen cars that looked a lot worse without frame damage. The 4the gens are damn strong.
#42
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#43
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Doesnt look that bad at all, although i would be a little worried too, but it seems as if you are just trying to find things that are "wrong" so you can get another car, why would you want them to total something that is easily repairable?...
#44
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I've got mixed emotions on the "totaled" idea.
If it is 'repairable' then how do I know if something goes wrong in the future that it wasn't from this idiot's lift? Like me going over a speed bump and all of a sudden there is a rattling somewhere. Like if I rev the engine and a mount breaks or a hairline crack in the block splits wide open?
If it's 'totaled' will I get enough $$ from the insurance company to cover the cost of another WS6? Or will I get enough $$ from the insurance company to cover my outstanding loan? Who will I have to sue to get the $$ back? Can I even sue the insurance company if they are the same company I use?
If it is 'repairable' then how do I know if something goes wrong in the future that it wasn't from this idiot's lift? Like me going over a speed bump and all of a sudden there is a rattling somewhere. Like if I rev the engine and a mount breaks or a hairline crack in the block splits wide open?
If it's 'totaled' will I get enough $$ from the insurance company to cover the cost of another WS6? Or will I get enough $$ from the insurance company to cover my outstanding loan? Who will I have to sue to get the $$ back? Can I even sue the insurance company if they are the same company I use?
#46
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I've got mixed emotions on the "totaled" idea.
If it is 'repairable' then how do I know if something goes wrong in the future that it wasn't from this idiot's lift? Like me going over a speed bump and all of a sudden there is a rattling somewhere. Like if I rev the engine and a mount breaks or a hairline crack in the block splits wide open?
If it's 'totaled' will I get enough $$ from the insurance company to cover the cost of another WS6? Or will I get enough $$ from the insurance company to cover my outstanding loan? Who will I have to sue to get the $$ back? Can I even sue the insurance company if they are the same company I use?
If it is 'repairable' then how do I know if something goes wrong in the future that it wasn't from this idiot's lift? Like me going over a speed bump and all of a sudden there is a rattling somewhere. Like if I rev the engine and a mount breaks or a hairline crack in the block splits wide open?
If it's 'totaled' will I get enough $$ from the insurance company to cover the cost of another WS6? Or will I get enough $$ from the insurance company to cover my outstanding loan? Who will I have to sue to get the $$ back? Can I even sue the insurance company if they are the same company I use?
If the insurance company gives you an offer that you are comfortable with, then fine, but many times the owner has to refuse the first offer and show the insurance company what it would really cost to replace the car. Use Autotrader as an example where you will find other similar cars and what they are selling for. Even though those are asking prices, the insurance company will 'up' their offer in most cases, especially if you throw in this sentence, "I really don't want to get my attorney involved but I won't be taken advantage of either." Best of luck!
#48
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It's the rocker panel. I've never had one off of a fbody but normally there is an open space between it and the inner structure.
Is it structural? To a point
Are they commonly fixed or replaced? Yes
It didn't shove the bottom of the quarter from the pictures so I don't think it's anything to get excited about.
Is it structural? To a point
Are they commonly fixed or replaced? Yes
It didn't shove the bottom of the quarter from the pictures so I don't think it's anything to get excited about.
#49
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I have to agree... not as bad as you think....gaps look OK still, nose needs a little tweak.
When a line busts on a hydraulic ram, it's not a drop like a rock from your hand, but still a somewhat fast fall due to the fluid leaking out of a line. Think of it like when you let a jack down fast.
I hope it is only superficial and nothing major.
When a line busts on a hydraulic ram, it's not a drop like a rock from your hand, but still a somewhat fast fall due to the fluid leaking out of a line. Think of it like when you let a jack down fast.
I hope it is only superficial and nothing major.
#50
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as i was reading in the thread i've seen someone mention "TEST DRIVE" the car.
which i now kind of agree to, because the OP mentioned after that.. that when he came to see the car .. the car was moved.. and they've got the car on the "LIFT" again to inspect the damage under the car... now if that lift was broken .. he must have been super fast with fixing that.. or he's a damn liar.
aside from that .. i've noticed that the right wheel connections are slightly bent more than the left wheel, how far the wheels are inside could be because of a bad shock due to the supposed fall.
i'm just suspicious ... just like the OP .. anyway it seems like an easy fix that only need's time and much attention to detail rather than tons of stress.
which i now kind of agree to, because the OP mentioned after that.. that when he came to see the car .. the car was moved.. and they've got the car on the "LIFT" again to inspect the damage under the car... now if that lift was broken .. he must have been super fast with fixing that.. or he's a damn liar.
aside from that .. i've noticed that the right wheel connections are slightly bent more than the left wheel, how far the wheels are inside could be because of a bad shock due to the supposed fall.
i'm just suspicious ... just like the OP .. anyway it seems like an easy fix that only need's time and much attention to detail rather than tons of stress.
#51
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Me as well......
IF a hydraulic line fails, all fluid will be expelled on the ground....... and the lines running to the piston/ actuator are way too small to evacuate the fluid in rate that the car would fall at such a rate it would cause damage. Dont forget about the safety locks. You have to manually disengage them to allow the hoist system to lower your car. OSHA would love to hear about this....... when was it last periodically inspected?
I see an over the weekend test drive gone bad....... over a bump, or railroad tracks maybe? I would look under it for scrape mark's, and look at the floor where this lift failed. Where is the hydraulic fluid that was cleaned up? In the trash? Does EPA know of this unreported spill so it can be properly disposed of? Got picks of this busted line, or is it already in the trash too?
IF a hydraulic line fails, all fluid will be expelled on the ground....... and the lines running to the piston/ actuator are way too small to evacuate the fluid in rate that the car would fall at such a rate it would cause damage. Dont forget about the safety locks. You have to manually disengage them to allow the hoist system to lower your car. OSHA would love to hear about this....... when was it last periodically inspected?
I see an over the weekend test drive gone bad....... over a bump, or railroad tracks maybe? I would look under it for scrape mark's, and look at the floor where this lift failed. Where is the hydraulic fluid that was cleaned up? In the trash? Does EPA know of this unreported spill so it can be properly disposed of? Got picks of this busted line, or is it already in the trash too?
#53
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Ok... The insurance guy said he visited the body shop and had it up on a 'good' lift. Funny, but sad.
It looks like it will be totaled. He said there was a TON of under body shifting. The tank was shifted way out of whack, the rear suspension too.
I gave him what I paid for my current car in the hopes that they just cut me a check.
Now, my questions are:
1. I have a lot of stuff on that car that I paid for recently. I will need to get them off. New shocks and springs all around, new bushings, new alternator, new backup cameras with rear view mirror, ipod kit. Will they be willing to cover the cost of removal or will I need to pay them? Will they let me come by with my tools and wrench it off myself?
2. What happens with my current auto loan? I am assuming I need to pay them off in full to get the title to the insurance company to have them junk the title.
3. What if I don't get a fair value for the car? Am I just screwed or do I need to contact a lawyer?
This is strange to say, but I'm assuming that you guys have gone through something like this and would have tremendous suggestions.
My last question:
4. Anyone know of any black-on-black, low mileage, 2001-2002 WS6's for sale?
Dazed and confused,
Brad
It looks like it will be totaled. He said there was a TON of under body shifting. The tank was shifted way out of whack, the rear suspension too.
I gave him what I paid for my current car in the hopes that they just cut me a check.
Now, my questions are:
1. I have a lot of stuff on that car that I paid for recently. I will need to get them off. New shocks and springs all around, new bushings, new alternator, new backup cameras with rear view mirror, ipod kit. Will they be willing to cover the cost of removal or will I need to pay them? Will they let me come by with my tools and wrench it off myself?
2. What happens with my current auto loan? I am assuming I need to pay them off in full to get the title to the insurance company to have them junk the title.
3. What if I don't get a fair value for the car? Am I just screwed or do I need to contact a lawyer?
This is strange to say, but I'm assuming that you guys have gone through something like this and would have tremendous suggestions.
My last question:
4. Anyone know of any black-on-black, low mileage, 2001-2002 WS6's for sale?
Dazed and confused,
Brad
#54
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Typically if they total a car you have to buy it back to be able to remove parts. You will likely get BB value for the car, so its hard to say if it will cover what you owe or not, but you should get enough to pay off the loan. Basically, expect to start over. If the insurance check is enough to cover the loan and have some extra, you may want to consider buying it back for your new parts, and then you could always do a part out on here to make some extra cash.
#56
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I doubt that maybe a week, as said above you would have to buy the car back to get your stuff off of it, I got totaled on a vacation a few years back before the adjuster got to the hotel parking lot I had stripped the truck of whatever I could,
#58
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Why my car was totaled, I went to the yard where it was and just pulled my parts off of the car before I received my check. But I put my stock parts back on and they never knew. If you pull out a radio or suspension, they will know. So, like it was stated, you will probably have to buy it back to take any parts off the car.
#59
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I've had the total loss process go both ways. When it was the other guys insurance they gave me the bare minimum. Didn't even cover options such as power locks windows and seats that actually have an effect on book value.
When my insurance totaled the other they told me to take anything off that wasn't installed at the factory because they wouldn't cover it. They would only give me the book value based on available options. So things like t tops seats and the rs body kit that were in better shape than the ones on the car I bought to replace it got traded.
I have learned that its best to have the car in your possession when it comes time to negotiate. Also to the best of my knowledge once they cut you a check they are no longer responsible for rental.
The insurance will handle the current auto loan. They will pay it off first then give you the difference. You will not see the title.
When my insurance totaled the other they told me to take anything off that wasn't installed at the factory because they wouldn't cover it. They would only give me the book value based on available options. So things like t tops seats and the rs body kit that were in better shape than the ones on the car I bought to replace it got traded.
I have learned that its best to have the car in your possession when it comes time to negotiate. Also to the best of my knowledge once they cut you a check they are no longer responsible for rental.
The insurance will handle the current auto loan. They will pay it off first then give you the difference. You will not see the title.
Last edited by 1320Chicken; 04-26-2013 at 08:06 PM.