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I'm looking at these on ebay. It says if you want to do brights, buy a second set.
I'm curious how the brights work if they're identical to the lows.
You say yours work as they should. Can you elaborate?
If you want the OEM Look, get the LMC Truck Low Beam and High Beam Housings. You can use the 9005/9006 bulbs they come with or with a little modification, you can install 9011/9012 bulbs or LED. There are plenty of threads on this. I'm on many of them... and some are listed in the Lighting FAQ too.
after further investigation, i found the headlight module to be faulty. due to bad solder joints. Swapped with a junkyard module and problem has not returned.
How don't they fit? If they don't turn twist/lock into the LMC housing, just a minor trim to a tab on the bulb is needed. If they don't fit on the car, that's because the right-angle bulb is hitting the metal bucket on the car and you need to cut a notch in the bucket.
Did anybody else ever run into the problem of flooded headlights after a car wash? By time i saw all my LMC housings were full of water they were ruined. How could this detail be overlooked? What are people doing to plug the modified space water tight again? Silicone?
Did anybody else ever run into the problem of flooded headlights after a car wash? By time i saw all my LMC housings were full of water they were ruined. How could this detail be overlooked? What are people doing to plug the modified space water tight again? Silicone?
That's serious. I'm curious to see what solutions come out of this.
John
Did anybody else ever run into the problem of flooded headlights after a car wash? By time i saw all my LMC housings were full of water they were ruined. How could this detail be overlooked? What are people doing to plug the modified space water tight again? Silicone?
There should be no need to add waterproofing... the small amount that is trimmed is on the bulb tab not the socket so it doesn't open up the housing to water any more than with the original bulb. The bulb's gasket should be quite enough to keep it watertight.
By time i saw all my LMC housings were full of water they were ruined.
How could they be "ruined?" Take them out, clean them, dry them, and they should be good to go once you figure out how water got in.
As said above, the bulb gaskets keep water from getting in and have kept the rest of us from having any issues with any bulb type. Are your gaskets installed?
Not that I can think of. Sometimes, people will install the 3 motor bolts in the wrong direction and that will cause the linkage to bind, so you might want to check that. If I remember correctly, they don't all go the same way and the nuts need to be pointed in a specific direction, so the extra end of the bolt doesn't hit the door linkage.
Confirming that slamming the hood doesn't do anything. When the motors won't come up, I simply pop the hood, loosen the motor ***** and close the hood, then hit the switch again for the lights and they cooperate. I've had them get stuck up and stuck down. Mostly down. 🤷♂️🤦♂️
Confirming that slamming the hood doesn't do anything. When the motors won't come up, I simply pop the hood, loosen the motor ***** and close the hood, then hit the switch again for the lights and they cooperate. I've had them get stuck up and stuck down. Mostly down. 🤷♂️🤦♂️
This would typically indicate something mechanical. In your situation, I would swap the motors between your driver's side and passenger side. See if the problem moves with the motors. If so, that would indicate that the motor you purchased is a dud. (This would not be the first time it's happened to us.)
There's all sorts of things you could try and tinker with, but at this point - I think swapping the motors (in your specific situation) will be the path of least resistance/effort/time to resolving the problem.
When turning on lights, one side does not open.
If I give the manual open **** a half turn, the flip the switch again, the light will open.
It feels like maybe the cap/**** is too tight. Is that possible?
Or could it be more electrical?
The motor works, and it does not grind. It closes fine.
When turning on lights, one side does not open.
If I give the manual open **** a half turn, the flip the switch again, the light will open.
It feels like maybe the cap/**** is too tight. Is that possible?
Or could it be more electrical?
The motor works, and it does not grind. It closes fine.
Is there a remedy for this? thanks in advance
It could be electrical or mechanical. If this happens 100% of the time, it's probably a stripped gear. They don't make noise when they are all-the-way gone.
Is there a shortage with the driver side headlight motors? Seems like they are getting harder to find, but the pass side are in stock. And when you do find a driver side, the price is nuts.
What about the A/M units, are they any good now or just the same cheep **** as always?
Has anyone used A-Premium or Evan-Fischer brand headlight motors? They both have good reviews on Amazon.
And what about Dorman? Do they not make a headlight motor, because I haven't seen one?
Yup. Just yesterday, it started making that g-r-r-r-r-r-r grinding noise when it closes. Also the lights flip open & closed now when arming/disarming. Ironically, the "stuck" one opens and closes fine now, except for the grinding. I think I have a spare gear around somewhere.
05-16-2021, 10:26 AM
