School me on GTO's
#1
Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,508
Likes: 3
From: Northeast Iowa
School me on GTO's
My buddy is finishing up college this next year and starting a new job, so he wants to treat himself to a car. My friends all drive Fbody's and Vettes, so he wants something different. He's asked what I know about them and I told him the little I know about them, but I don't really know a ton about them as far as aftermarket mods. He's more than likely going to look for a high 11's setup through an M6.
How wide of 17" rims/tires can you run on them?
Any good tricks to weight reduction?
How is the drive shaft/tranny/diff/IRS system in these cars? Is it pretty reliable, or is it necessary to upgrade for drag racing?
Any common problems to look for when purchasing?
What are the go-fast suspension neccessities for these cars?
I know I can probably find most of this info with the search, but just figured I'd put it all together since I have so many questions. Thanks in advance
How wide of 17" rims/tires can you run on them?
Any good tricks to weight reduction?
How is the drive shaft/tranny/diff/IRS system in these cars? Is it pretty reliable, or is it necessary to upgrade for drag racing?
Any common problems to look for when purchasing?
What are the go-fast suspension neccessities for these cars?
I know I can probably find most of this info with the search, but just figured I'd put it all together since I have so many questions. Thanks in advance
#2
Hey man -- I can address your questions specifically ... but look at my car in the for sale section. It's basically the EXACT setup that your friend is looking for. Take a look at it and let me know if you have any questions (see link in sig).
#3
How wide of 17" rims/tires can you run on them? Without any fender work, 285's in the rear
Any good tricks to weight reduction? No. People take out the back seats and spare tire, but frankly with this car it doesn't matter. Best thing to do is upgrade the suspension (best mods possible for this car) and increase power. You will not win the weight game with the GTO. Win the HP game.
How is the drive shaft/tranny/diff/IRS system in these cars? Is it pretty reliable, or is it necessary to upgrade for drag racing? Strictly a case by case basis. Some of my friends have over 600 to the wheels on the stock tranny and drivetrain. Others have broken both with just 400 to the wheels. ... The best plan here is 'if it aint broke, don't fix it.' In other words, save those components for last if and when you brake them. For me, the drivetrain has been excellent with zero issues with 420 to the wheels and a 3600 stall.
Any common problems to look for when purchasing? If it's stock, the suspension.
What are the go-fast suspension necessities for these cars? Regarding the suspension, the only strong stock component that doesn't need replaced are the control arms. Frankly, you should completely 'pedderize' the stock suspension. Check out my suspension setup -- it's perfect. About $2.2K invested in the stock suspension will give you a whole new car. It's crazy going from stock to well modified suspension = whole new car that handles and drives excellent.
I know I can probably find most of this info with the search, but just figured I'd put it all together since I have so many questions. Thanks in advance
#4
Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,508
Likes: 3
From: Northeast Iowa
Cool, good deal. I think the route he's probably going to take is finding a nicely and tastefully modified one. We've seen several and they aren't much more expensive than a stocker. Any problems with the LS2 that should be adressed?
#5
No issues with the LS2. It is a great motor that can make a lot of power. In my opinion, having an LS2 GTO is one of the best performance values you can buy; especially considering the easy mod/high horsepower potential.
Take my car for example... I was building it for forced induction (supercharger) and currently have the build done besides the 'big boy parts' -- blower and upgrade the fuel system. All supporting mods are done and with the blower it could easily make 550+ to wheels (currently at 420).
#6
Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,508
Likes: 3
From: Northeast Iowa
You're car is beautiful and worth every penny of your asking price, but he is looking at spending around $15k at the moment, it might go up when he's done with college. I'll definately show him the car tho, thanks!
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#8
My buddy is finishing up college this next year and starting a new job, so he wants to treat himself to a car. My friends all drive Fbody's and Vettes, so he wants something different. He's asked what I know about them and I told him the little I know about them, but I don't really know a ton about them as far as aftermarket mods. He's more than likely going to look for a high 11's setup through an M6.
How wide of 17" rims/tires can you run on them?
Depending on your wheel setup and suspension most people don't even try for more then a 275. Even then unless your car has a perfect offset or you put drag bags in the back or raise springs you'll need to trim the fenders up on most rims. Please do some research here, jacked up GTO's really look stupid and drag bags are about the biggest bandaid to fit wheels that I've ever seen. It is no better then people buying those coil spring spacers to fit donks on their impalas.Any good tricks to weight reduction?
Yes, lots. There is a useless V brace under the trunk, spare tire, rear brace that holds up the trunk carpet, rear seats, some very easy to access sound deadening and the front bumper support right off the top of my head. All will keep the car streetable and lighten it by almost 120 lbs right off the get go.
How is the drive shaft/tranny/diff/IRS system in these cars? Is it pretty reliable, or is it necessary to upgrade for drag racing?
For drag racing with a sticky tire people generally twist the half shafts, and some people have driveshaft issues. Wheelhop is usually the cause of killing the diff.... Stock diff in medium to high mileage cars usually wears out as well if the thing wasn't taken care of. There are lots of parts out there to fix these issues, but if you'r drag racing a manual car with some wheelhop and some power expect to break parts....autos are quite a bit nicer on the drivetrain components.
Any common problems to look for when purchasing?
Strut rub on the front tires, BCM issues, bubbling steering wheel spokes, torn stitching on the rear seat leather.
What are the go-fast suspension neccessities for these cars?
There are lots of suspension options available and a lot are more cost effective then the pedders. You have to do research and find out what you want yourself. Just don't hop into the first package someone tries to sell you, definitely do the research and invest some time here and you'll come out MUCH happier.
I know I can probably find most of this info with the search, but just figured I'd put it all together since I have so many questions. Thanks in advance
How wide of 17" rims/tires can you run on them?
Depending on your wheel setup and suspension most people don't even try for more then a 275. Even then unless your car has a perfect offset or you put drag bags in the back or raise springs you'll need to trim the fenders up on most rims. Please do some research here, jacked up GTO's really look stupid and drag bags are about the biggest bandaid to fit wheels that I've ever seen. It is no better then people buying those coil spring spacers to fit donks on their impalas.Any good tricks to weight reduction?
Yes, lots. There is a useless V brace under the trunk, spare tire, rear brace that holds up the trunk carpet, rear seats, some very easy to access sound deadening and the front bumper support right off the top of my head. All will keep the car streetable and lighten it by almost 120 lbs right off the get go.
How is the drive shaft/tranny/diff/IRS system in these cars? Is it pretty reliable, or is it necessary to upgrade for drag racing?
For drag racing with a sticky tire people generally twist the half shafts, and some people have driveshaft issues. Wheelhop is usually the cause of killing the diff.... Stock diff in medium to high mileage cars usually wears out as well if the thing wasn't taken care of. There are lots of parts out there to fix these issues, but if you'r drag racing a manual car with some wheelhop and some power expect to break parts....autos are quite a bit nicer on the drivetrain components.
Any common problems to look for when purchasing?
Strut rub on the front tires, BCM issues, bubbling steering wheel spokes, torn stitching on the rear seat leather.
What are the go-fast suspension neccessities for these cars?
There are lots of suspension options available and a lot are more cost effective then the pedders. You have to do research and find out what you want yourself. Just don't hop into the first package someone tries to sell you, definitely do the research and invest some time here and you'll come out MUCH happier.
I know I can probably find most of this info with the search, but just figured I'd put it all together since I have so many questions. Thanks in advance
You can find GTO's all day long for 12-15K in good condition. Please do a lot of research before modifying or you'll waste money on un-needed or overpriced parts....this cars' market seems to cater to people with more money then brains.
#10
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=404350
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=402887
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=402417
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=379778
Just some of the available choices in your price range and they're all clean low mileage cars with mods.
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=402887
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=402417
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=379778
Just some of the available choices in your price range and they're all clean low mileage cars with mods.
#11
#13
Fair enough. I agree they're worth more then what they've been getting, but anyone asking over 20K is going to have to really hustle when people are giving away prime examples at 14-15K. Its unfortunate
#14
If you're interested, I'm selling my Goat too...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-g...to-qsm-a4.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-g...to-qsm-a4.html
#15
Yeah man no problem -- If you go to my thread you can see the time and money that's been put into this car. It's a serious build. I was building it for forced induction (TVS 1900 or 2300 to be exact) and everything is done besides the 'big boy' parts like the blower and fuel system. All supporting mods are done. But when I priced out the remainder of the build, I decided it wasn't worth it to finish it because I had already made up my mind I wanted to get a new car -- it's down to two. The car is IMMACULATE and would be an amazing toy for someone else, but I'm ready to move up.
That's the most unfortunate part ... GTO owners are their worst enemy. And the problem with sites like these (one of the reason's why I waited so long to post mine up) is that they can devalue the car. What I'm referring to is when people don't sell them in a week, they drop the price by thousands and it effects everyone. KBB values our cars more than most owners trying to sell! It's ridiculous. Given how rare they are, to find one in the kind of shape that mine is in and the performance, it's worth what I'm asking or at least close to it. /rant lol
That's the most unfortunate part ... GTO owners are their worst enemy. And the problem with sites like these (one of the reason's why I waited so long to post mine up) is that they can devalue the car. What I'm referring to is when people don't sell them in a week, they drop the price by thousands and it effects everyone. KBB values our cars more than most owners trying to sell! It's ridiculous. Given how rare they are, to find one in the kind of shape that mine is in and the performance, it's worth what I'm asking or at least close to it. /rant lol
#16
Very true. I know nobody would want to buy my car for what I want so I figure I'll just keep her forever.... Like I said, I didn't mean any offense, I just don't see it selling too quick at your price. I know its worth it (about what I bought mine for originally actually), but people will look at it, and see a car with 20K more miles but 10K less and move on y'know?
#17
I bought my Silver 06 GTO last year for $22,500 from an older women that traded it in at her local dealership where she originally bought it at a few years before and also had it serviced there for everything,,,, including the oil changes with only 12 K on the clock too. I searched for about a month on the auto trader before i found it! I actualy bought a way way ticket flight from Pittsburgh here to Philly where the dealer picked me up at the airport and i drove her home that day Still under factory warranty too. I had a chance to buy alot of modded GTO 's,,,, even some with superchargers,,,for the same or lower price? but I wanted a no fuss no problem low mile car that was well taken care of and is why i opted for a stock 400hp GTO for my DD lol
Seems sometimes that the unmodded GTO's IMO are still bringing good or even more money (BONE STOCK), verses the ones that have had hands into them ?Ive always been the type of guy too no matter what mods are on a ride,,, if i wasnt the one doing them,,, it really didnt matter to me money wise what type of good deal it seemeed to be .
Its scary buying someone elses build,especially when theres no warranty ,, because your always wondering way their selling it LOL
Mine now has 19K on the clock and from looking on the auto trader today ,,,is still worth almost what i bought it for (Bone stock!) If i had wanted a modded GTO i would have picked up a cheaper high mile GTO and pulled the engine and tranny and had them both done up the way i wanted them and still been at a price where as i could have bought a stock one but would have a warranty on the new engine and tranny
Seems sometimes that the unmodded GTO's IMO are still bringing good or even more money (BONE STOCK), verses the ones that have had hands into them ?Ive always been the type of guy too no matter what mods are on a ride,,, if i wasnt the one doing them,,, it really didnt matter to me money wise what type of good deal it seemeed to be .
Its scary buying someone elses build,especially when theres no warranty ,, because your always wondering way their selling it LOL
Mine now has 19K on the clock and from looking on the auto trader today ,,,is still worth almost what i bought it for (Bone stock!) If i had wanted a modded GTO i would have picked up a cheaper high mile GTO and pulled the engine and tranny and had them both done up the way i wanted them and still been at a price where as i could have bought a stock one but would have a warranty on the new engine and tranny
Last edited by barnat; 03-25-2011 at 09:12 AM.
#18
Very true. I know nobody would want to buy my car for what I want so I figure I'll just keep her forever.... Like I said, I didn't mean any offense, I just don't see it selling too quick at your price. I know its worth it (about what I bought mine for originally actually), but people will look at it, and see a car with 20K more miles but 10K less and move on y'know?
#19
#20
bought my 05 for $6000. 95000k on the clock. bone stock and in great condition. not perfect but really really nice condition. blue book is still around 13,500. i had to jump on it. best 6 grand ive ever spent.