Call 911! Thinking grand am cam with Victor Jr
07-10-2009, 01:23 AM
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Call 911! Thinking grand am cam with Victor Jr My G5X2 is a bit to peaky for my taste. Don't get me wrong, awesome cam. Just too street-drag, and that's not what the car is being built for.
I primarily use the car on the street...but as a road race street car. I live within 20 minutes of 5 amazing Utah canyons with great fast open corners and don't drive in traffic much...I want more torque.
The car is slowly becoming track worthy. I bought a gigantic used oil cooler off of some front engine cup car locally (absolute largest i can fit anywhere on the car: 30'' w 20'' h 1.75'' thick), i'm still unsure if it'll fit in the wing. First track day in the car @ Miller motorsports park is the 27th of this month! Woo!
My question is: Which cam with the victor Jr. in a road racing application? I love the way the car rev's above 5k now (a little more like the porsche flat 6[slightly
] with the new Victor intake and heads)...I'll never go back to the LS6 intake or even a fast. I've got adjustable suspension and will be autoX'ing, time attacking, and...drifting the car. Top end is still important to me.
Grand am cam i think is 239/251 .570/.570 on a 106 lsa... I'm thinking more lift to fully use my ported heads and intake and big TB. It was just a thought and i have one available locally to use.
I was also thinking something around 230-234 in between .575''-.610'' on a 110. What do you think? I haven't spoken to patrick G yet. I know he does lots of 1320 cam stuff but does anyone have any custom road race cam suggestions. I'm looking to get bare minimum 440 rwhp and 410 rwtq from the 346. I think i'll need an under drive damper pulley and LT's to get there but if you see anything else you think i might need in my setup, let me know. I'm still fairly new to the LS motors. Mods in sig
Thanks, Russ
I primarily use the car on the street...but as a road race street car. I live within 20 minutes of 5 amazing Utah canyons with great fast open corners and don't drive in traffic much...I want more torque.
The car is slowly becoming track worthy. I bought a gigantic used oil cooler off of some front engine cup car locally (absolute largest i can fit anywhere on the car: 30'' w 20'' h 1.75'' thick), i'm still unsure if it'll fit in the wing. First track day in the car @ Miller motorsports park is the 27th of this month! Woo!
My question is: Which cam with the victor Jr. in a road racing application? I love the way the car rev's above 5k now (a little more like the porsche flat 6[slightly
] with the new Victor intake and heads)...I'll never go back to the LS6 intake or even a fast. I've got adjustable suspension and will be autoX'ing, time attacking, and...drifting the car. Top end is still important to me. Grand am cam i think is 239/251 .570/.570 on a 106 lsa... I'm thinking more lift to fully use my ported heads and intake and big TB. It was just a thought and i have one available locally to use.
I was also thinking something around 230-234 in between .575''-.610'' on a 110. What do you think? I haven't spoken to patrick G yet. I know he does lots of 1320 cam stuff but does anyone have any custom road race cam suggestions. I'm looking to get bare minimum 440 rwhp and 410 rwtq from the 346. I think i'll need an under drive damper pulley and LT's to get there but if you see anything else you think i might need in my setup, let me know. I'm still fairly new to the LS motors. Mods in sig
Thanks, Russ
Last edited by lazylongboarder; 07-10-2009 at 01:29 AM.
07-10-2009, 08:42 AM
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You've got a pretty unique setup, there. Not many people here have a carb'd LS1. Even fewer have one that is used for carving corners. In fact, you're the first I've heard of.
My first suggestion would be to call Shane at Thunder Racing. My car is a road race car, and I wanted a cam. We went through a few different options before selecting a 230/224reverse-split cam.
Why this one? Well, used on-board telemetry to see when I needed power and at what RPM. I found out that I needed it from 3500-redline. If I ever dropped below 3500, I shifted gears and got the revs back up.
So, we looked at what cam had the best torque around 3500-4000rpm, but also had good hp up high. Here's the dyno graph from a car outfitted exactly like mine:
But, I think you'll need headers, regardless. Something, at least. That's why I say call Shane. He knows plenty about this and can help.
My first suggestion would be to call Shane at Thunder Racing. My car is a road race car, and I wanted a cam. We went through a few different options before selecting a 230/224reverse-split cam.
Why this one? Well, used on-board telemetry to see when I needed power and at what RPM. I found out that I needed it from 3500-redline. If I ever dropped below 3500, I shifted gears and got the revs back up.
So, we looked at what cam had the best torque around 3500-4000rpm, but also had good hp up high. Here's the dyno graph from a car outfitted exactly like mine:
But, I think you'll need headers, regardless. Something, at least. That's why I say call Shane. He knows plenty about this and can help.
W Good Dyno!
07-10-2009, 08:55 PM
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You've got a pretty unique setup, there. Not many people here have a carb'd LS1. Even fewer have one that is used for carving corners. In fact, you're the first I've heard of.
My first suggestion would be to call Shane at Thunder Racing. My car is a road race car, and I wanted a cam. We went through a few different options before selecting a 230/224reverse-split cam.
Why this one? Well, used on-board telemetry to see when I needed power and at what RPM. I found out that I needed it from 3500-redline. If I ever dropped below 3500, I shifted gears and got the revs back up.
So, we looked at what cam had the best torque around 3500-4000rpm, but also had good hp up high. Here's the dyno graph from a car outfitted exactly like mine:
But, I think you'll need headers, regardless. Something, at least. That's why I say call Shane. He knows plenty about this and can help.
My first suggestion would be to call Shane at Thunder Racing. My car is a road race car, and I wanted a cam. We went through a few different options before selecting a 230/224reverse-split cam.
Why this one? Well, used on-board telemetry to see when I needed power and at what RPM. I found out that I needed it from 3500-redline. If I ever dropped below 3500, I shifted gears and got the revs back up.
So, we looked at what cam had the best torque around 3500-4000rpm, but also had good hp up high. Here's the dyno graph from a car outfitted exactly like mine:
But, I think you'll need headers, regardless. Something, at least. That's why I say call Shane. He knows plenty about this and can help.
I've been holding off on long tubes for a while because custom headers are about about the same amount of money as buying the rest of my F/I parts...$1200-$1500. Currently i'm using hooker block hugger's. I cut the 2.5'' flange off and it's now 3'' from the collector to the mufflers...which is about 15'' of pipe...
I know there's lots of power left on the table using these headers. The collectors on a F-body LT interfere with my engine cage and the C5's look to be even worse. I'm thinking i'll cut up some F-body ebay headers to see if it's even possible.
Efi by the way. Ported victor intake and 4150 Throttle body=10 rwhp consistently over ported fast 90/92, that is something i do like since it is still a street car. Not the best for torque (still fantastic since i'm coming from 219 rwhp)...but i LOVE the way the motor is in the upper revs now. The ls6 setup felt strained and "unhappy" above 5000 rpm for long runs.
I like your cam but i'm thinking a little more top end. Your curves are ridiculously flat and exactly what this thread was asking for. What's your LSA? Lift? Lot's of people i'm sure will be interested in the specs on this Road race forum.
I'll give shane a call.
Thanks, Keep the suggestions coming.
07-10-2009, 09:18 PM
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I imagine that your headers will be nice and expensive. You may want to look into buying the flanges from a dealer. Those are pretty specific and a CNC piece is an excellent place to start. Then, I'd suggest buying a universal kit and cutting it up to make what you need.
A friend of mine is stuffing an LS1 into a small race truck. He's having to custom make his exhaust - the passenger side is going straight back, but the driver's side is snaking back around the front of the engine, then joining with the passenger side later. He's alraedy spent dozens of hours and isn't quite finished.
A friend of mine is stuffing an LS1 into a small race truck. He's having to custom make his exhaust - the passenger side is going straight back, but the driver's side is snaking back around the front of the engine, then joining with the passenger side later. He's alraedy spent dozens of hours and isn't quite finished.
07-11-2009, 10:13 PM
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I imagine that your headers will be nice and expensive. You may want to look into buying the flanges from a dealer. Those are pretty specific and a CNC piece is an excellent place to start. Then, I'd suggest buying a universal kit and cutting it up to make what you need.
A friend of mine is stuffing an LS1 into a small race truck. He's having to custom make his exhaust - the passenger side is going straight back, but the driver's side is snaking back around the front of the engine, then joining with the passenger side later. He's alraedy spent dozens of hours and isn't quite finished.
A friend of mine is stuffing an LS1 into a small race truck. He's having to custom make his exhaust - the passenger side is going straight back, but the driver's side is snaking back around the front of the engine, then joining with the passenger side later. He's alraedy spent dozens of hours and isn't quite finished.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Dynatech/Dynat...50012/10002/-1
Collector mufflers:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WLK-24228/
Small mufflers to cap it off and make it somewhat acceptable for the street:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUP-544-3003/
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07-12-2009, 09:21 PM
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That may work. Be careful of the flange those headers use - they're not for LS1s. I'll bet you could call up Hooker or some better header manufacturer and see if they'll sell you just the flange.
