Road Racing Road Course | Autocross

4th Gen drift build

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-25-2014 | 10:21 PM
  #221  
Sporty-X's Avatar
Teching In
 
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: New Caledonia
Default

Hi everyone. Still with my understeer problem. Any suggestion to balance the car better ?
Old 08-25-2014 | 10:57 PM
  #222  
WarShrike's Avatar
TECH Resident
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 858
Likes: 14
From: Lubbock, TX
Default

Are you running the same width tires front and rear? If you're running wider in the back than the front, you'll have induced understeer from that. Squared setups tend to be the forte for the road race guys and keeps the car nicely balanced.

If you can adjust the rake of the car towards the front, that can help get some of the weight transfer up front. You can do this with a "weight jacker" setup that fits between the springs and rear end. If you had adjustable shocks, you'd be able to adjust the firmness and in turn can induce over/understeer depending on those settings.

What differential are you running in that 12 bolt?
Old 08-26-2014 | 07:16 AM
  #223  
Jenson's Avatar
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
iTrader: (32)
 
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,025
Likes: 8
Default

Also Sporty, what rear sway bar do you have?
Old 08-27-2014 | 07:21 PM
  #224  
Sporty-X's Avatar
Teching In
 
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: New Caledonia
Default

I've made several changes in the car.
My 12 bolt have an HD Eaton Posi
Sway bars are Hotchkiss in front and rear (37mm front and 25mm rear) (http://www.summitracing.com/dom/part...t/model/camaro )
I daily drive with larger tyres at rear (275/315), but I use 255/255 for drift events

let me know if those parts can affect this understeering (all parts listed are on the car) :
- LCA relocation brackets + LCA
- adjustable torque arm
- subframe connectors (web style)
- Strano springs
- Bilstein HD shocks
- car has weight reduction : no more heater, A/C, dashboard removed , carbon fiber hood, UMI lower and upper A-arms, ... which are mainly on the front. I believe the rear is heavier with my 12 bolts so it should have changed the gravity center on the car

Also : I have 5° caster ; -2.5° camber ; toe 0

I have an event soon so I'm thinking about getting an airlift 1000 to stiffen rear quickly. a friend of mine has one and it seems to help on his car (which don't have my understeering problem)
Old 08-28-2014 | 09:25 AM
  #225  
Jenson's Avatar
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
iTrader: (32)
 
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,025
Likes: 8
Default

Whats your pinion angle set at? Man thats a big front sway bar! When is it understeering? Corner entry, initiation, mid corner, power on, or just all the time? 12 bolt is a lot heavier than a 10 bolt too.
Old 08-28-2014 | 05:15 PM
  #226  
Sporty-X's Avatar
Teching In
 
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: New Caledonia
Default

My pinion angle was set for drag racing, I've reduced it now. I don't remember how much angle. My understeering problem is maximum at low speed for making fast short turn. the car tend to go straight
Old 08-30-2014 | 04:07 PM
  #227  
Jenson's Avatar
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
iTrader: (32)
 
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,025
Likes: 8
Default

Pinion should be 0* fwiw. I don't completely understand the explanation. It is the worst at low speed, but it's still there on fast corners?

Is it all the time? While your on power? E brake? Is it under steering while drifting or grip driving? I think your front end is to tight just by looking at your specs though. I'd disconnect the front sway bar to test theory
Old 08-31-2014 | 11:02 AM
  #228  
mikespeed95's Avatar
TECH Resident

iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 909
Likes: 0
From: Spring / Sealy, TX
Default

Originally Posted by Sporty-X
I've made several changes in the car.
My 12 bolt have an HD Eaton Posi
Sway bars are Hotchkiss in front and rear (37mm front and 25mm rear) (http://www.summitracing.com/dom/part...t/model/camaro )
I daily drive with larger tyres at rear (275/315), but I use 255/255 for drift events

let me know if those parts can affect this understeering (all parts listed are on the car) :
- LCA relocation brackets + LCA
- adjustable torque arm
- subframe connectors (web style)
- Strano springs
- Bilstein HD shocks
- car has weight reduction : no more heater, A/C, dashboard removed , carbon fiber hood, UMI lower and upper A-arms, ... which are mainly on the front. I believe the rear is heavier with my 12 bolts so it should have changed the gravity center on the car

Also : I have 5° caster ; -2.5° camber ; toe 0

I have an event soon so I'm thinking about getting an airlift 1000 to stiffen rear quickly. a friend of mine has one and it seems to help on his car (which don't have my understeering problem)
How are you typically initiating? Have you had an experienced instructor go along with you?

Back when I was an extrovert, 90% of the people with ''understeering cars'' worked great when some simple settings were made to the control panel attached to the steering wheel and pedal box.

Your car is a manual correct?
Old 09-05-2014 | 01:40 AM
  #229  
Sporty-X's Avatar
Teching In
 
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: New Caledonia
Default

Sorry not answering fast - I have long working days.
I will set the pinion angle to 0. It was more. I will also disconnect the front sway bar tomorrow just to see what will change. I believe I should also set the LCA at the stock position (I have relocation brackets).
The problem is the worst when I reduce speed on cornering then put power again : if the car start to go straight instead of keeping the rear end turning, it just change his way and the front start to initiate a straight direction
My car is manual yes
Initiating : depend on the part of the pad / track. For some very short turn parts, you have to use the Ebrake. the short radius is the worst for my car. Others are OK. My friend also use a 4th gen Camaro and no problem with its car. he can turn in very short radius. my car just don't want
Old 09-05-2014 | 06:40 AM
  #230  
Jenson's Avatar
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
iTrader: (32)
 
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,025
Likes: 8
Default

Yea, change the LCA position too. You dont need that until you are overpowering the rear tires. Remember not to slow down to much though, as you get to slow in the drift and return to power it will just want to follow the front's angle. Your car should do a lot better than your buddies in the short stuff unless he has more steering angle than you
Old 09-05-2014 | 11:44 AM
  #231  
mikespeed95's Avatar
TECH Resident

iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 909
Likes: 0
From: Spring / Sealy, TX
Default

Sporty-X,

If your buddy has no problem in his, I would have him drive yours. You're probably just turning in too much and not letting the front tires track in the direction they're trying to go.
Old 09-07-2014 | 07:57 PM
  #232  
Sporty-X's Avatar
Teching In
 
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: New Caledonia
Default

I changed my pinion angle (set to 0). Remove LCA relocation bracket. remove front sway bar. I didn't had time to make a test of the car but will let you know how it feels then.
I will also let my friend drive my car so he can give his own opinion.
Old 09-07-2014 | 11:58 PM
  #233  
mikespeed95's Avatar
TECH Resident

iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 909
Likes: 0
From: Spring / Sealy, TX
Default

If you make more than 1 change at a time you'll never know what each change did.
Old 09-08-2014 | 12:46 AM
  #234  
racerfox's Avatar
Launching!
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
Default

worth a try but my car will not push with 315s in the front at all

i would say try a little wider then 255s.. at least 275s

i run 315s all the way around with coil overs
Old 09-08-2014 | 06:07 AM
  #235  
Jenson's Avatar
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
iTrader: (32)
 
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,025
Likes: 8
Default

And you always want the stickiest rubber possible up front. Rear tires should be the cheapest crap you can get your hands on until you get really get and need more rear grip. 315's wont work up front with more angle unfortunately.
Old 09-09-2014 | 10:00 PM
  #236  
mikespeed95's Avatar
TECH Resident

iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 909
Likes: 0
From: Spring / Sealy, TX
Default

Eh, there is a difference between managing an oversteering car and drifting.

If you run big sticky tires up front with stock steering angle the car is going to spin at any extreme angle. Traditionally on an actual drift car you'll have a lot of stagger, and a suspension that unloads the inside front tire. By having large amounts of grip in the rear as opposed to the front it allows the car to dangle at the edge of manageable slip angle.

My car I'm going to run 225/255 setup on stock vette wheels, and massage the knuckles to about 50*, fix my diff, add an accusump and proceed to party.
Old 09-14-2014 | 03:15 PM
  #237  
mikespeed95's Avatar
TECH Resident

iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 909
Likes: 0
From: Spring / Sealy, TX
Default

Since this thread is somewhat active, you guys using 10 bolts and not breaking them? What diffs you running?
Old 09-16-2014 | 12:25 PM
  #238  
Jenson's Avatar
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
iTrader: (32)
 
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,025
Likes: 8
Default

Sporty is not running stock steering angle.

Yup, stock 10 bolt with the AAC cover/girdle, auburn pro diff. and 3.42's. I have H/C though. Robbie swapped to a 4.11 on his stock LS1 and said it really helped.
Old 09-16-2014 | 03:36 PM
  #239  
mikespeed95's Avatar
TECH Resident

iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 909
Likes: 0
From: Spring / Sealy, TX
Default

Even with bigger angle, if you go past it with large amounts of front grip the front will catch. On the cars that are setup to go fast they'll turn by the sheer wheelspeed and angle pushing the car around the corner, verus a lot of the shallow and slower cars that are basically riding off of the track of the front tires while the rear tires just kind of hang out and hold on. Does that make sense? I just did a terrible job of explaining that, lol. I plan on running maxium 245 front since I don't think I'll need to run bigger than a 275 for stock power.

I was thinking of doing shorter gears and a diff on mine with steering angle just to see how it did. I did some testing in Mexico the other day and my factory diff does not want to play ball when drifting to the right.

They're doing a 'street legal' series here in Texas, it would be hilariously fun to troll the entire fanboy concept by clowning on everyone in a mostly stock 4th gen Camaro, but I'm a little skeptical about breaking rear-ends now.
Old 09-17-2014 | 09:58 AM
  #240  
Jenson's Avatar
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
iTrader: (32)
 
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,025
Likes: 8
Default

I think I know what your saying. I just know when I put good tires on the front versus the crappiest things I could find, it transformed the car in to something I could drive and put it where I wanted vs managing where it was going to end up. Same goes for the rear tires too though. Im running 265/295's in tandem trim, which is probably overkill, planning ahead for the turbo setup though. Smokey is going to be a 4.8L with a 3.23 rear and 245's all the way around.

The 3.42 is fairly strong for what we are doing, these things are like glass with some sticky tires and a dead hook, but all we are doing is spinning. I clutch kicked the clutch out of mine too, rear end is still perfect. And it has seen a good bit of drag radial launches in the past and has about 98K miles on the rear end.


Quick Reply: 4th Gen drift build



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:00 AM.