Kamin

so, lets say someone doesnt want to spend 2k+ on a clutch. whats the best option for something that will last but not be ridiculous for price?

Ive been looking at the spec stage 3 and 3+'s, i think with a lightweight flywheel its still going to shave 20lbs off the factory setup but come in under 1000$. my requirements are a little...different...than the full road race guys. my car is not a street car but i cant have an on-off switch for a clutch because it will destroy transmissions and rear ends when i clutch kick at 5000rpm and 90mph haha. clutch has to absorb some of that shock (hence why im looking at sprung disc's)

i have(had) an RPS on my last engine and LOVED IT. never had any issues.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Busy morning and early afternoon so far.

Install the flywheel and torque to 107 lb/ft in a star pattern:



Clutch cover, flipped upside down:



Pressure plate added making sure everything is ultra clean:



Then the disk:



This is what a real clutch alignment tool looks like:



Alignment tool inserted. Disk lined up. Clutch cover tightened to 24 lb/ft with a dab or red locktite:



All done. The whole assembly with the flywheel and clutch is about 22 pounds:



After installing the clutch I double checked my setup height to make sure that the throw out bearing was in the proper position. Everything looked great. Transmission was attached to the engine and the engine is in the car. I will take more pics later.

Andrew

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

Looks good. Cant wait to hear more about it.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Today I bled the system. Couldn't be much easier. Connected a clear hose to the bleeder. Cracked the bleeder and let it drip into a container. Kept filing up the MC until there were no more bubble showing in the clear line. With the 5/8" MC I can press the pedal with my hand. Double checked for full release, all good.

Andrew

ss1

iTrader: (32)

Gotta admit, QM stuff is top of the line. I ran a 5.5" in my oval track car as well, using a 7.25" right now. They couldn't be any more simple to setup and bleed.

I spoke with someone at QM about a year ago, and they couldn't hook me up with an LS1 clutch setup. They thought they might have some parts, but they weren't in production, and couldn't find the flywheel. All they could remember was they put what I was looking for in a car that someone did for Goldberg. Eventually I gave up. The 8.5" you're showing is exactly what I was looking for.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

I think the setup for Goldberg was a 2 disk 8.5". These clutches are not for the faint hearted. If your even thinking about "streetability" than this is not a clutch for you. If you understand what this clutch is all about and how it works, then it would make a great setup in a track day or autocross car.

Andrew

NataSS Inc

iTrader: (9)

multi disk clutches (more than 2 or small size) and streetability shouldn't even be used in the same sentance

FDLS1

iTrader: (2)

Andrew, is the clutch that you are using completely streetable?

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Depends what your definition of streetable is.

What do you consider streetable?

Anderw

FDLS1

iTrader: (2)

Well, if using a KAZZ LSD with a diff that is pretty much solid mounted, poly suspension bushings, roll cage, and true dual 2.5in exhaust with straight thru mufflers is what you consider streetable then we are on the same page.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

All that stuff is pretty tame. When you swap to a light weight clutch you will have to learn to drive your car over again. It will want to stall on take off, so more gas need to be given. The other thing about these clutches is that they do not tolerate a great deal of wear on the disk. So you have a situation where in order to take off from a stop smoothly and not stall you have to give it gas and slip the clutch. Slipping these clutches is bad. They will wear quickly. The disk can wear only .030" before the spring pressure is out of spec. To keep wear to a minimum you will have to sort of pop the clutch at take off.

It all comes down to how much maintenance you are willing to do. For me taking the trans out, inspecting the clutch, replacing the disk, etc...., is not a huge deal. For others its a major hassle that they do not want to bother with.

Is it streetable? In my opinion yes, but only as long as you do not expect a very long life from the clutch.

Andrew

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Question...will that QM alignment tool above work with all LS1/T-56 clutches? From what I've found, the standard input shaft is 1-1/8", whereas that tool is 1-5/32"...I really like that tool though.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Everyone calls it 1 1/8". In reality it has always been 1 5/32" x 26. So yes, it will work.

Andrew

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Sweet...been wanting a real alignment tool for a while now (since my last clutch install). Thanks!

Jeremiah

iTrader: (5)

I have the Exedy twin in my car and I think it does good on the street.
I will see how it does a the drag strip in a few months.

Speedpup

ttt

redvetracr

If anyone is interested I have a brand new AP racing 7.25 triple disc w/QMI discs for sale...AP is the father of the Quartermaster......PM if interested, pics available...and YES the price is right!
redvetracr

halllon

How much is this kit, and where to buy it? Can it be used with the stock throw out bearing?

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Pricing will vary depending on friction material and number of disks. The one pictured is a single disk, which was fine in my lightweight RX7. For a burly F-body you will need a 2 disk. These are not for the faint of heart. No pretending its "streetable." Whatever that means. I drove mine on the street all the time and it was fine. However I was always aware of the fact that one wrong take off and the clutch can be toast. They are no meant to be slipped.

The stock TOB cannot be used. Solution is pictured below. You can contact Quarter Master directly and get info on part numbers. Any of their dealers can take the order for you.

Andrew

Speedpup

nice