Water Wetter - anyone use it in road racing?
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I have a couple of HPDEs coming up in August in Virginia and I expect it to be hot. The air temp at the last one I drove at was 98-99 F and only once did the temp gauge/idiot needle move above the 210 F mark, but I would like it to never go there.
Has anyone used water wetter with the standard DexCool mixture and seen a reduction in peak temps? How much did you add to the cooling system?
Thanks
BobP
Has anyone used water wetter with the standard DexCool mixture and seen a reduction in peak temps? How much did you add to the cooling system?
Thanks
BobP
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If I might make a suggestion, you might seriously consider running Evans waterless coolant, especially their NPG+. It does a much better job at that type of usage than regular OEM style coolants.Evans doesn't have the pocketing problems that regular coolants have.I haven't heard that those water wetters really do all that much.
Here's their link www.evanscooling.com
Here's their link www.evanscooling.com
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It wouldnt do a difference since your thermostat opens at a certian temperature anyway. It may cool down alittle more while in the radiator but goes back up in motor untill the thermostat opens agian.
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Not with a standard 50/50 mix.
However, when I reduced the concentrate of Dex to 70/30 and added a bottle of WW, I saw about a 15* drop at peak ... 215-220 down to about 200 with similar ambient conditions.
All I did was drain the radiator, add WW and distilled water to get the 70/30 mix.
I have a 160 thermo, BTW ....
HTH
However, when I reduced the concentrate of Dex to 70/30 and added a bottle of WW, I saw about a 15* drop at peak ... 215-220 down to about 200 with similar ambient conditions.
All I did was drain the radiator, add WW and distilled water to get the 70/30 mix.
I have a 160 thermo, BTW ....
HTH
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I did the same thing as mitchntx on my 1998 TA. Went from 210* almost all the time to about 180* unless I am wringing it's neck. I drained the radiator put in 2 gallons of distilled water,1 bottle of water wetter and filled the rest of the way with Dexcool. I have a stock thermostat.
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water wetter is good.
If you are in a NASA series, you most likely can't use anything but water in your radiator. stick some WW in with the water, you will be good.
If you are in a NASA series, you most likely can't use anything but water in your radiator. stick some WW in with the water, you will be good.
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I have a couple of HPDEs coming up in August in Virginia and I expect it to be hot. The air temp at the last one I drove at was 98-99 F and only once did the temp gauge/idiot needle move above the 210 F mark, but I would like it to never go there.
Has anyone used water wetter with the standard DexCool mixture and seen a reduction in peak temps? How much did you add to the cooling system?
Thanks
BobP
Has anyone used water wetter with the standard DexCool mixture and seen a reduction in peak temps? How much did you add to the cooling system?
Thanks
BobP
I was at summit point today and it was very hot... 100-105.... anyways my car overheated badly (260F!!!!!!!)... Anyways after two sessions i decided to put water wetter and see if its going to help. Of course on the 3rd and 4th session i drove the car not as hard as before and the Temp was sitting around 240F!! which is still better than 260 though. I think im going to try getting me a 160 thermostat because i saw two LS1 owners there and they didnt have any overheating problem with the 160 thermostat and stock radiator. U should try that too. Good luck.
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Well, I just finished 5 days at VIR over the last two weeks
, and the temp gauge behaved itself with one bottle of water wetter. It's not a good test since it never got as hot as it was when the gauge drifted above the 210 mark, and I didn't Autotap to get real numbers, so I have to reserve judgement.
Anyways, thanks for the advice on this thread, and if it looks like another high 90s race day, I'll be adjusting my mixture like some of you with numbers suggest
.
BobP
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Anyways, thanks for the advice on this thread, and if it looks like another high 90s race day, I'll be adjusting my mixture like some of you with numbers suggest
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BobP
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I find it DOES work.
I have digital water and oil temp gauges in my car (160 t-stat, low fan settings, and an engine oil cooler) and with straight water and water wetter, the water and oil temps will always stabilize at an even point on a highway (ex. 176 on both).
I drained the system a few days ago (had a line crack) and didn't have any water wetter to add so had to go with a 50/50 mix. When I got out on the highway, the oil ran a few degrees hotter than the water (ex. 174 water and 178 oil). This leads me to believe that by not having the water wetter mixture present, the water was not actually taking as much heat out of the engine as it otherwise would (not as efficient). As a result the oil had to take that extra heat out (make up for the water).
I have digital water and oil temp gauges in my car (160 t-stat, low fan settings, and an engine oil cooler) and with straight water and water wetter, the water and oil temps will always stabilize at an even point on a highway (ex. 176 on both).
I drained the system a few days ago (had a line crack) and didn't have any water wetter to add so had to go with a 50/50 mix. When I got out on the highway, the oil ran a few degrees hotter than the water (ex. 174 water and 178 oil). This leads me to believe that by not having the water wetter mixture present, the water was not actually taking as much heat out of the engine as it otherwise would (not as efficient). As a result the oil had to take that extra heat out (make up for the water).
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If I might make a suggestion, you might seriously consider running Evans waterless coolant, especially their NPG+. It does a much better job at that type of usage than regular OEM style coolants.Evans doesn't have the pocketing problems that regular coolants have.I haven't heard that those water wetters really do all that much.
Here's their link www.evanscooling.com
Here's their link www.evanscooling.com
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If its really that good and I don't have to change anything (just drain/clean the system and then poor this in) it would be worth the $75.
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#17
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I use it, and have been using it for a little over a year. It works fabulously. I found out about it from some racers that I know, and it's the only thing they would consider using. I didn't have to change out anything, no thermos, no sensors, not anything. It doesn't create any of the sludge that regular coolants do. I did have a friend modify my thermostat to run a little hotter (205). The factory unit was designed for other things, and runs way too cool. I did increase the capacity of my cooling system, and intend to replace the hoses in my car with metal ones that have Hydraflow disconnects. All that's not really necessary, though and you can run it with your regular components with no problems.It is worth every penny of the $75, and some places may sell it to you cheaper than the MSRP.
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where can I buy the stuff?
www.hallfabracing.com (Hall Fabrication) makers of the GT40 $ Daytona
click on the "products"
www.hrpworld.com **** Racing Products (super nice folks)
1BadLS1 Racing, Inc. (unfamiliar with them)
1(866)571-7223
If none of these workout send me an email. Try the Evans site, then click motorsports. You'll see dealers off to the left, then click it.