scoob

iTrader: (3)

I should be picking up my WS6 next week, but I was going to go ahead and get some parts together so I will have planty of time to install them before my next autox. Just so you know, the car will be built for autox and track days, I really don't care about going fast in a straight line. So here's what I was thinking:

Strano springs
Koni 4/4
PHB ?
subframe connectors
sways
V710's on some spare stocker wheels
and a good alignment with plenty of neg camber, 0 toe, and a reasonable amount of castor.

Sound good?

jhelms

iTrader: (2)

How much are you going to drive it on the street?

Depending on that you could get some weight also, but you've got a good starting list.

Don't forget brakes, fresh fluids, and seat time

Killer_Bluebird

iTrader: (23)

Sounds like a good starter setup. I agree with John some better front brake pads (Hawk HPS min.), brembo blanks and Castrol SRF or comparable brake fluid should also be on the list. I ran Carbotech XP10's in the front and stock pads in the back the last year and a half and loved them. Great Pad for HPDE/Auto-X.

SHELBYGLHS

Let me know if you need tires. I have one year old 710's 265/45/16 on stock wheels.
Two tires have seen one 20 minute session at watkins glen (plus proper heat cycle),
the other two have seen 4 20 sessions. Like brand new condition.
PM for info if interested.

scoob

iTrader: (3)

PM'd you.


I haven't forgotten about brakes, the stuff I listed above is going to be a bulk purchase when I pick up my car next week. I already have some ATE blue in the garage left over from my STi that I was going to put in there as well. In about 2 months I'll have enough saved up for the brakes...and I agree about the Hawk pads, I've had them before on other cars and loved them.


The car will see limited street use, it will basically be a weekend fun car when its not at the track. But, being in SC I will be keeping the A/C and things like that. Not really looking to go as far as dropping weight unless there is something quick & easy I don't know about?

SHELBYGLHS

Since you're coming from a Subie you will be surprised that these cars work the power steering really hard. I swapped to Royal Purple synthetic to help with the heat. Some guys put a larger power steering fluid cooler on the car (it has a small one stock).

scoob

iTrader: (3)

Never thought about that, thanks for the info. Wish there was a way to swap in something with a better steering ratio. Anybody know what a T/A would have from the factory?

cdb95z28

iTrader: (4)

Can`t go wrong with the Strano springs and Konis. I have the Strano anti-roll bars with my Eibach/Konis. Coil overs are in the future. One thing that I did that was a very dramatic change was going from Hotchkis poly rear LCAs (which were on from my old drag racing days) to a set of LG Motorsports Aluminum rear LCAs with QA1 rod ends. With these and a Spohn adjustable PHB (also w/ QA1s) the rear is so well planted. The spings/shocks can do their intended job w/o any bind screwing things up. I drive my car alot on the street and I don`t even notice those rod ends anymore.
I also have C5 `Vette front brakes/Severn brake ducts/stock rear brakes. At the track I run Hawk HT10s on the front with GM rotors and Hawk HP+ with Autozone rotors on the rear. ATE fluid here too. I had no problems at a track day last August w/ temps in the mid 90s/high humidity with this setup. Get brake ducts for sure.
I don`t know about the LS1 Fbods, but the LT1s PS will overheat with road racin`. I got a Turn One PS pump that flow considerably less volume and w/ just Redline PS fluid, I have had zero issues. turnone-steering.com
I sent them my pump and they modded it. It wasn`t expensive. And it really has no drawbacks except just a tiny bit more force is required to turn the steering wheel when I am turning the wheel while the car is at a stand still. No big deal.

vettehardt

iTrader: (1)

I pm'd you also about these.

scoob

iTrader: (3)

Sorry to bring this back from the dead but you were right! Today was the cars first day on r-compounds and by the end of my first run the steering pump was screaming. Up until now, it had run 2 autox's on street tires with no problems. By my 3rd run it was getting bad so I hung it up before I did any permanant damage. Going to swap in some better fluid and see if that helps, either Redline or the Royal Purple like you used.

dailydriver

Yes.
I would not have even gone out there without at least (if not a cooler of some sort as well) either of those fluids in the p.s. reservoir!!

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

i just got some royal purple steering fluid. is it alright to siphon out the resovoir and add in the RP, or should i bleed the entire system? (if so how do you do that) is the power steering as sensitive to air bubbles as brakes are?

dailydriver

If you do the 'turkey baster reservoir flush' multiple times, it should be OK (kind of like the way Ranger suggests to flush out the clutch reservoir).

But of course the ultimate is a full open hose flush of the system, and although not quite as sensitive to air as the brakes are, the p.s. system should be cleared of all the air bubbles possible.
Directions (I believe) are on Install University, or somewhere on this site (or frrax.com?)??

I did a flush a while ago with RP, so now I just refresh the system every 6 months or so with new RP using the turkety baster method.