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Burning lots of oil, good compression, checked pvc and new valve seals
So the previous oil change was about 4 months ago and i did valve seals and new springs with it i know i installed the seals wrong so this oil change i went ahead and did new ones, since then (about 2 weeks and 800 miles ive burned througha quart of oil, i checked the inside of the intake and it has very little oil residue also pulled the intake and didnt find any oil on top of the valves, i did a compression test and had numbers between 160-175psi any clue here? i wanna say valve guides but i just dont know where to go from here
that intake valve doesn't look too gummy, what do the backs of the exhaust valves look like? my DD has streaks down the exhaust valve stems where they leak, lol
you running a catch can? that'll keep some of the oil out of the intake at least.
that intake valve doesn't look too gummy, what do the backs of the exhaust valves look like? my DD has streaks down the exhaust valve stems where they leak, lol
you running a catch can? that'll keep some of the oil out of the intake at least.
I have an ls6 valley pan with no catch can I can only see the oil coming out the exhaust at WOT i will check the exhaust valve tomorrow
pulled the passengers side header today and this is what i found, they look fine to me except the first one looks kinda wet at the top. is that normal?
that doesn't look too bad as far as oil coming down the valve goes, but you have some oil coming into the combustion chamber from somewhere. stock shortblock?
i'd look into a catch can for sure. I did a super cheap ebay set up and it works great.
that doesn't look too bad as far as oil coming down the valve goes, but you have some oil coming into the combustion chamber from somewhere. stock shortblock?
i'd look into a catch can for sure. I did a super cheap ebay set up and it works great.
Yep stock lm7 short block I'll pick up a catch can in a couple days and try it out,
First question I have is what do the spark plugs look like? This is he first thing you want to check. That might tell you which cylinder is the culprit and also you can normally tell by the oil on the plug if its getting past the guide seal or coming up past the rings. With only a qt per 800 miles, you might not see it with the naked eye. But with a magnifying glass and bright light you can usually see what each plug is seeing.
First question I have is what do the spark plugs look like? This is he first thing you want to check. That might tell you which cylinder is the culprit and also you can normally tell by the oil on the plug if its getting past the guide seal or coming up past the rings. With only a qt per 800 miles, you might not see it with the naked eye. But with a magnifying glass and bright light you can usually see what each plug is seeing.
The plugs are white but about 4-5 of them have oil on the threads, as far as heads go they are stock 706 head with trunnion upgrade and prc .660 valve springs with titanium retainers, I burned 4.5 quarts last oil change without realizing until my oil pressure started bouncing around I added a bunch at the gas station.
+ 1 on the heads if they are ported. Mine are and I have oil on my plugs too. Im going to take the rockers off, clean off bolts, clean holes, and re-apply Teflon paste.
Oil consumption got worse with heads+cam in my car. Its pretty normal for 99-01 ls1s to consume a lot more oil.
+ 1 on the heads if they are ported. Mine are and I have oil on my plugs too. Im going to take the rockers off, clean off bolts, clean holes, and re-apply Teflon paste.
Oil consumption got worse with heads+cam in my car. Its pretty normal for 99-01 ls1s to consume a lot more oil.
just stock heads with a cam ls2 intake and headers , nothing too fancy
So i got my catch can in just need to get some tungsten, gas and filler rod so i can weld the bungs on the valve covers. does it matter where i weld them on? i know the rear of the drivers side cover but on the passengers side i was just gonna weld it under the coil pack so i can still fit the stock coil bracket