LT1Bird97

So awhile back I messed up on installing the rocker arms and caused my spring retainer to come off and let a pushrod eat part of the rocker. Been prepping slowly for engine removal by following these two guides

http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...out-the-bottom

http://imgur.com/a/b0uVn <---pics

I think im basically ready to drop the motor but I have a few questions. First how the heck do I get that back right shock tower t50 bolt, not sure why I got two on the same shock tower......guessing im going to have to remove the brake booster for clearance since I couldnt seem to wiggle it out of the way enough.

Not really feeling too comfortable to lift the car. Im using a 1 ton harbor freight hoist extended to the 1/4 ton mark for reach.....Part of me is thinking this isnt enough to lift it safely.

So I guess the plan for tomorrow is figure out the shock tower bolt. lower the car onto the 2 harbor freight dollys I have, undo shock towers first, then Kmember and trans crossmember and just lift the car? Think I will be able to slide the motor and trans out while still using the hoist? I have jack stands and cinder blocks to set them on but I think I'd rather try to slide it out on the hoist if I can.

Anything else I should know about? I plan on being very careful and slow so i dont rip out any wires, I have a racetronix fuel pump with the wiring harness so I know I need to cut zipties that tie it to my lt1 wiring harness.

Either way def nervous about motor removal but I am anxious to see if the motor can be saved or not.

ACE1252

You shouldn't need to remove the entire booster, just the master cylinder. Once the 3 lines are removed from the ABS modulator, you can remove it and the master cylinder together(two nuts holding the master cylinder to the booster).

I used an engine lift to raise the body. Using all thread as u-bolts with large washers on the back side through the shock tower holes. My engine hoist has a much longer reach than what you can usually buy in most stores now. Without the proper adjustments, it can start lifting the back of the hoist up.

What I do is put the body low to the ground on jack stands, put a chain across the front of both heads, using the hoist, lift at the center of the chain until the car just lifts off the jack stands, put a trans jack or a small jack under the back of the trans, remove the 4 bolts holding the back of the trans, remove the 6 k-member bolts, put a wooden engine cradle I made under the engine, lower the engine hoist to set the car back on the jackstands and continue to lower the engine to the wooden cradle.

With the engine now on the floor, I then lift the body up enough to roll the engine out with a floor jack.

There are many ways to do it, but just be careful and make sure the car can't roll on you. I've had very good results using 2 of my old stock salad shooter wheels on the floor(with tires still mounted on them), with the rear tires of the car set in them.

The pictures below are from two different pulls, but you can get a general idea of what I did. In the picture with the 2008 date, I used wood stands and jack stands to rest the body. I think the all wood stands are the better way to go, more stable....and yes all those would blocks are nailed together. Oh...and if it is not too late, point the nose to the garage door. I've pulled one with the nose facing a wall and it's no fun.

LT1Bird97

I took a few pics

http://imgur.com/a/b0uVn

Is there any problems with using my front wheels under the back ones? Everyone always recommends other wheels but I dont have any around. Im using a tow strap looped around the coolant reservior and intake area which im told is the frame. I like the engine cradle you made it. Seems that would make dropping the engine a bit easier, but im gonna try it with the harbor freight dolly's first. Seems simple but im still a lil nervous

ACE1252

I don't think so, the tires will just get dirty. I don't think any of my rims have ever received any damage from all the pulls I've done. Around 5 to date.

Without the front wheels mounted, make sure that whatever you set the engine on is solid. You don't want it pitching over sideways on you and possibly shoot the dolly out the other side.

With the wheels on the front, as in my pictures, it does help to keep the thing from tipping over on one side or the other. My cradle is fairly wide, so there not much chance of it, but I still keep them on just in case. Keep in mind the wheels and front shocks can't support any weight.

Other than that, I think you are in pretty good shape. Just go slow, be careful, and make sure nothing is still hooked up or gets caught as you go up. If in doubt of something, stop and think carefully on it. No need to rush.

Oh, and make sure you are wrapped around the frame itself. Don't crush anything.

ACE1252

I used chains on my very first pull. You can see where they were positioned. I think you are very close to the same spot.

ACE1252

Just as a reminder, you are dealing with some serious weight. I think the engine and trans combined approach ~700-800 pounds.

LT1Bird97

This is prob the only thing that makes me worried. I should be able to throw a rope around it and once its on my 2 large HF dolly's I think I can pull it out.


So lifting the car without the engine trans should be able 2500 total and I assume im only lifting half that weight since the tires are gonna be on the ground still. I have already lifted the car a little bit to get it into position and on jack stands with the hoist. Lets hope it holds up for me when im really lifting it up

TheUrbz

"i took a calculated risk, but man am i bad at math"

using horror fraught tools and workin on an LT1, a man after my own heart. please keep this updated bud. this threads gonna be archived when i get around to doing the same.

Casey96SS

Not sure you will be able to slide the engine and trans out from the side when the car is hanging from the hoist. I know I could not, but I kept my back tires on the ground. I had to set the car on some tall heavy jack stands so I could move the hoist out of the way and roll the engine to the front on the dollys.

As others have said, be very cautious with that one ton hoist. You are only looking at 500 lbs when it is fully extended. I doubt there is much safety factor designed into that Chinese steel. I have the 2-ton HF hoist and was skeptical raising my car with the engine and trans in, but did not have any issues.

One thing that also helped me was screwing one layer of 2 X 4's on top of the one dolly under the engine to increase the height under the K member. I used two small size dollies fwiw.

Here is a small thread from when I did mine. https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ng-points.html

Good luck!

LT1Bird97

got my brake lines all clear and the master cylinder out with the abs. Looks like my dolly's are too low to the ground. The hoist starts to hit my front end when I lay it down so looks like I need to get some 2x4's to raise the height a bit. Hoist seems to have no problem lifting the car but I havent had it really high up yet

Edit: threw some 2x4's on the dollys and it looks like im at the perfect height. Pretty nervous about unbolting the kmember and trans crossmember tho.......I dont know just seems sketchy. Is there a certain way to go about this? Guessing just unbolt kmember first, shock towers, and then trans crossmember? or should I do the trans first?

Casey96SS

As long as the car is secured with the hoist and the K member and trans are centered and resting firmly on the dollies before you undo any bolts you should not have any problems.

I want to say I probably unbolted the shocks, trans, then K member. Don't forget to take the handle off the shifter if you have a 6 speed.

LT1Bird97

Engine is out. Pretty damn nerve wracking to lift the car up this high. My friend did not like it one bit. Now I get to dissemble the motor and see what I can save and decide my choices moving forward with this. Also gonna clean the engine bay since its pretty dirty. Lost a bit of trans fluid also so looks like im gonna have to make sure to add some back in. So how tricky is it getting the motor back in?

Pics
http://imgur.com/a/4qOUm

ACE1252

This statement will make me seem like Captain Obvious, but I go in the reverse of the removal.

I have my big floor jack under the engine cradle with a trans jack(small jack on wheels will do) strapped to the trans. I roll the assembly into roughly the correct position, then lower the body back over the engine making small adjustments if necessary with the engine positioning. Put the body as low over the engine assembly as you can get it. Lowest position of your jack stands. The stands are located under frame rails next to the "official" jacking pads(for a post lift).

Next step, for me, is where the magic happens. Bolt a chain across the heads, attach the engine hoist in the middle, then start pulling the engine to the body. Once suspended in air, you can move the assembly enough to get the dowel pins(on the k-member) to line up with the body. Also, jack the trans as needed. From there, you pull the engine to the body, lifting the body about a 1/4" off the jack stands. Install the 6 K-member bolts, torque to spec, then jack up the trans and reinstall the mount.