BaMaDuDe87

Replaced the cabin air filter. Not sure the PO ever replaced it. It was literally falling apart. Is the filter supposed to go under the two "tabs" at the top? It looks like it should to hold the filter "closer" to the cabin intake part, but my filter wouldn't stay under those top tabs so I just put the cover back on.

Checked the engine air filter (Need to replace soon)

Anthony Toal

Its been a while since I have done mine, but I believe so. I remember it being a PITA to get it situated correctly to fit under the tabs. It should make a seal.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

It's mildly easier to get out with the battery out but can be done with it in. It will make a seal assuming your box isn't hinky or jacked.

JEFFCTSVMANW

Pulled steering rack (leaking) Need clue on how to remove solenoid / wiring and lines

actrite80

iTrader: (2)

Putting these on

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

I'm wary of trying a different size because it's a pain in the *** to go through all this again if I don't like it. I contacted Tilton's tech support prior to installing the PMC to ask them which 76-series master I should use with the Tilton slave I'm running. They told me to run the -875, which just happened to be the "stock" PMC size, so I stuck with that.

Regarding the assist spring, in the big PMC thread there is talk of removing the assist spring on the pedal due to the built-in assist spring in the MC; I haven't seen any comments about doing the opposite. I take it you've done that, and it works well without the assist spring in the MC?

CTSvOH

Last night I got rid of my stock shifter and put a Creative Steel short throw shifter in along with a V2 shift ****. Wow what a difference in the shifting. The CS shifter has a lot shorter throw, sometimes I am not sure if I got in gear. I might have to make some adjustment to make the throw a little longer. My only complaint is that I can see some daylight around the base of the shifter after its pulled up into place. I might take some foam weatherstripping and put around it or use some silicone to keep water out. The install was a bit of a PIA. The nut and bolt that held the shifter linkage in place was rusted pretty good and I had to cut the nut off. Of course the saw zaw blade wasn't able to get all the nut cut off so I had to hit the remaining part of the nut with the air hammer. I also had trouble drilling the rivets out and broke a couple of drill bits in the process. Install would have been a lot easier if the exhaust and or driveshaft were out of the way. I am happy with shifter and **** so far.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

I would've asked him why he recommended a 7/8" slave and I bet he wouldn't have provided a satisfactory answer. The people I asked (2 different engineers at McLeod and Tilton) stated that 3/4" bore is sufficient and that you're adding unnecessary effort by going larger. All four engineers agreed that going up to 13/16" would provide forgiveness for non-optimal fluid conditions, and that 7/8" was risking damage while hampering driver performance. The math (and my experience) confirms that. For example, with a 7/8" MC, I was able to actuate my McLeod RXT with only 3 inches of good pedal travel on a very poor bleeding job. That should tell anyone that they have too much MC fluid displacement.

The over-center clutch spring is a piece of garbage. I have an extra clutch pedal and I can show you how it works later. If you had 10 seconds to actuate my pedal rig with your hands, you'd see immediately. The primary job of the spring is to help keep the pedal up to allow fluid to be exchanged between the reservoir and the MC. Its second job is to help you hold the pedal on the floor. There are three problems with the design:

1. Due to its "over-center" design, the spring applies a large amount of resistance to the user at midpoint, making the pedal nonlinear and hard to modulate.
   
2. Compared to the amount of force needed to depress the clutch, the spring provides a meaningless amount of assistance in the last 1/4 of the pedal travel.
   
3. It's not durable and can cause squeaking. Mine broke with 11,000 miles on the car during my first tune at Jannetty Racing. Had to pull the two broken chunks out with pliers. Even if it doesn't break for you, the tiny nylon bushings can degrade and result in a squeaky pedal.

If GM provided a quality master cylinder with a return spring like Tilton and Wilwood products, they wouldn't have any problem with pedals sticking to the floor. As soon as you get away from that Cardone MC, you don't need the spring. But it's still there... a ticking time bomb.

If you're worried about clutch disengagement with a Tilton 76-812, pay attention to the CSC number (presently 2.990") in my signature below. I've been fine tuning it based on the new Tilton slave. While I love the fact that the Tilton slave is essentially leakproof, it has this massive, compressible o-ring behind the piston and it affected my optimal slave length ("B" dimension) established using the metal-on-metal McLeod 1300 series slave.

odthetruth

iTrader: (4)

Sold mine yesterday. Have a plate kit for sale now.

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

OK, you confused me. GM should have provided a MC with a return spring, but you recommended I remove the return spring from the Tilton. Why is that?

What is a CSC number?

-----

Took apart the Tilton MC to rebuild it. Didn't find any "smoking gun" to explain the leaking, which is a bit annoying. I would've like to have seen some sign of a damaged seal so I would feel confident that I was actually fixing the problem.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Sorry for the confusion. I recommend that you remove the clutch pedal "helper" spring. It's making your job harder by making the clutch pedal non-linear. The return spring in the Tilton will ensure your pedal will return if the clutch craps out. If you're skeptical, I can try to estimate the amount of assist that the spring provides. It's not much. By contrast, the spring puts a ton of resistance into the midpoint of the pedal stroke and makes it hard for the clutch pedal to come off the floor.

CSC = Clutch Slave Cylinder. The "number" I was referring to is the length of my Tilton 6000 series slave from tip to tip. It's not the same as the "B" distance, but I can show you that if you're interested. People ask me for "known good" numbers for stuff like this, so I try to make it easier for them.

Camaro350Z28

iTrader: (6)

Soooo what I did was, heads, cam, fast 102, clutch, cs trans bushings and shifter. headlights and emblems. Woowoo still coming together. Needs a tune. No pics at moment but I'll start posting. This is a good post! Just noticed it

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

Damn, that's a lot of stuff! Good work! I presume you did motor mounts too? Don't do a poly trans mount unless you do poly motor mounts with the same (or greater) stiffness also.

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

Taking my sweet *** time on getting the clutch master fixed. Got it physically back in the car yesterday evening, but didn't get around to setting the pushrod length and bleeding the clutch. Will get to that after work today - wanted to wait for it be up in the 90s to make it that much more fun to work in the driveway.

No, my clutch line does not run down through that opening; I have it run under the brake booster and then down behind the engine. It's wrapped in Thermo-tec sleeve, and since I no longer have long tubes, it's really not close to anything wicked hawt.

So I took a look at that opening last night as I was reinstalling the MC in the car. How is your line run under the car? It appeared I would have to run it directly over the driver side cat, and there's really nothing to zip-tie to in order to keep the line up away from the cat. Not the best picture, but you get the idea...



Got it. Like I said, I've seen other people mention doing that, so it was definitely something I was thinking about. Thanks for the clarification.

Ah, roger.

Camaro350Z28

iTrader: (6)

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most all bushings we're replaced on the car before I bought it. Was one reason I really liked it.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

Just confirm which motor mounts are on there. Motor and trans mounts should be the same hardness/stiffness or the trans a bit softer or you will have vibrations.

actrite80

iTrader: (2)

Got it detailed

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Looks great actrite! Any more pictures?

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

Tried to finish the PMC re-install, but got interrupted by Mother Nature bringing a thunderstorm into town. Decided it probably wasn't prudent to be out in the driveway at that point.

Did remove the clutch pedal assist spring before the weather rolled in, though.


In the past I've read that people had to cut that to get it out, but I didn't have to do that. I was able to just pry out each end with a big screwdriver, and then when I cycled the pedal down to the floor, the spring came loose from the little slot that it hooks onto on the pedal arm. Pretty easy.

actrite80

iTrader: (2)

Thanks man