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If a set of motor mounts would last 75-100k, I would easily have done the same. 30k isn't cutting it, though. I wish there were a more adaptable set of traditional (non-hydraulic) OEM mounts available.
The Revshift 80A motor mounts are softer than the Creative Steel mounts. There's your solution.
Brake lines and the clutch feeder line. As I'm sure you know, the OEM lines interfere with mods, and aren't compatible with aftermarket brake master cylinders. I used this opportunity to escape having to use someone else's prefabricated stainless kit. Every hard line connection is 4AN (1/4") 37 degree flare. I have 13" (minimal length) DOT approved Russell braided stainless lines on the corners. I also put a limited number of unions in the lines to enable removal of segments for service or to change how that segment is routed.
In case you're interested, the tools needed to make the lines cost about $1000. Making the measurements, forming the lines, and optimizing the routing was 50 hours of meticulous work. Remember that you need to establish precise angles and precise distances while accounting for the stack up of your own build tolerances.
Originally Posted by AAIIIC
Quieter horn? I was just thinking today that I need louder horns! The horns on this car just don't seem to get any attention from those around me.
It's quieter due to the spray shields on the mouths of the horns. You can take them off if you want. I prefer a quieter horn because the OEM one is too loud for confirming the car is locked or letting someone know the light turned green. If I want to let someone know I'm pissed, the throttle is a much more effective tool.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 09-07-2017 at 05:13 AM.
I know Max will disagree, but having had Revshift and Creative Steel motor mounts in my hands at the same time, I agree with what John @ Revshift said: approximately 87A. Not quite as hard as 95A stuff from TIC, ES, or Revshift, but way harder than 80A.
I'm with you on the horns. I put a 4 horn set off an old eldorado on my 05. That got people's attention...
I did a pair of "big car" horns on my beater Subaru; can't remember what I grabbed them off of at the junkyard. 1000x better than the little baby horn the car had originally. The horns look basically the same as the V's horns, but seem a heckuva lot louder. Maybe it's just how they're positioned on the car? I'll have to see about grabbing another pair of junkyard horns off some big ol' domestic car.
Originally Posted by FuzzyLog1c
Brake lines and the clutch feeder line. As I'm sure you know, the OEM lines interfere with mods, and aren't compatible with aftermarket brake master cylinders.
I'll take your word for it. I just have the factory brake master cylinder, and haven't found the brake lines to be in the way of any mods thus far. A/C lines (back driver's corner of the engine bay) are really the only thing I've found to be inconveniently located.
Originally Posted by FuzzyLog1c
Every hard line connection is 4AN (1/4") 37 degree flare. I have 13" (minimal length) DOT approved Russell braided stainless lines on the corners. I also put a limited number of unions in the lines to enable removal of segments for service or to change how that segment is routed.
I'm used to brake lines being 3/16" / -3. Did you do 1/4" / -4 for the sake of commonality with the clutch? Did they fit OK in the existing factory mounting clips? What all did you actually replace? 50 hours of meticulous work sounds like you did the entire car; I initially assumed you were just doing stuff in the engine bay. Got any pics? (Edit: Not necessarily pics of everything, I'm just curious to see some of it.)
Originally Posted by FuzzyLog1c
Making the measurements, forming the lines, and optimizing the routing was 50 hours of meticulous work. Remember that you need to establish precise angles and precise distances while accounting for the stack up of your own build tolerances.
I replaced much of the brake plumbing in the engine bay of my Fox Mustang to add ABS years ago. I just mocked things up with a coat hanger, then bent the brake lines to match the coat hanger. With the NiCopp lines available now it would be even easier; I'm sure the stainless line was not that easy.
Originally Posted by FuzzyLog1c
I prefer a quieter horn because the OEM one is too loud for confirming the car is locked or letting someone know the light turned green.
I have to disagree there. IMO no (normal) horn is loud enough to say, "PUT YOUR ******* PHONE DOWN AND PAY ATTENTION TO THE STOPLIGHT!" (I say no normal horn because I'm not one of those douche bags that thinks train horns are appropriate.)
I have to disagree there. IMO no (normal) horn is loud enough to say, "PUT YOUR ******* PHONE DOWN AND PAY ATTENTION TO THE STOPLIGHT!" (I say no normal horn because I'm not one of those douche bags that thinks train horns are appropriate.)
Yup definitely shows you live in Northern VA or DMV area, ******* people are ridiculous!
Did a complete brake job and changed complete headlights. I got the headlights on eBay. Factory OEM for $150 shipped for both. What a appearance difference clear, uncracked, hazed headlights make. Also these had the bumper supports at the bottom so the bumper won't sag as much. I guess they didn't come out with those until later.
09-06-2017, 12:52 PM
I was just thinking today that I need louder horns! 
The horns on this car just don't seem to get any attention from those around me. 
