Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

Air Filter for Turbo?

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Old 03-26-2018, 06:58 AM
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Well I confirmed there is room for improvement....it helps when you are actually 100% WOT during a pass Didn't even get to 90% throttle until 2.5 sec into the run (no traction) and then it stayed at 90% the rest of the run

Old 03-26-2018, 08:20 AM
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Depending on th pid you are using for tps it is possible you were wot but it reads duty cycle so it only says 90 percent. Its like that if i pick the wrong pid on my car. Not saying you did that just that i have in the past and it is something to check.
Old 03-26-2018, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by jordoza
Depending on th pid you are using for tps it is possible you were wot but it reads duty cycle so it only says 90 percent. Its like that if i pick the wrong pid on my car. Not saying you did that just that i have in the past and it is something to check.
I went out to the car and logged the PID with the car off and the gas pedal pressed....sure enough only 80-90%. Shoved my foot through the floor and saw 100%....looks like I need to adjust the cable/pedal. Kinda sucks cause we were -250ft DA and if I could have gotten out of the hole and had 100% I think it would have went significantly faster.
Old 03-26-2018, 09:29 AM
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Gotta slow down the initial power “spike” when boost comes in. Plenty of traction out there if you dial that in. Make a quick pull at WOT logging and note right where the tires spin. Soften the timing map a ton in that region. Boost by speed and ramping in timing from a trans brake release (or foot brake release, whatever) over time work really well too.
Old 03-26-2018, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
Gotta slow down the initial power “spike” when boost comes in. Plenty of traction out there if you dial that in. Make a quick pull at WOT logging and note right where the tires spin. Soften the timing map a ton in that region. Boost by speed and ramping in timing from a trans brake release (or foot brake release, whatever) over time work really well too.
I (wrongly) assumed that since I had plenty of traction last time at the track in November, I would be fine on Saturday. I was also hoping to get some A/B with the filter/no filter, but that pretty much went to crap when I couldn't launch reasonably well. Best sixty was a 1.85.

To be fair, I did up the boost ~2 psi, swapped to an LS7 MAF in a 4" tube, changed the fuel pump, and a couple other little things so I was hoping to make more power (and confirmed), but didn't think it would impact the launch. Track temps didn't help the case as it was ~50* air temp on the last pass.

I hear you on softening timing at the hit, need to work on that. Have you seen anyone do timing retard by speed on a stock PCM or thats left to the aftermarket?

On the plus side, looks like ~84% DC on 60# injectors @70psi should mean its making decent power. Go 4L60E!
Old 03-26-2018, 10:20 AM
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I’m only familiar with aftermarket methods. But I’d think you could soften the initial onset of boost by dropping timing way down as boost builds up to your set point.

Assuming you build boost really fast and 15lbs was the goal… Try running like 8* of timing from 1lb to 13lbs, then ramp timing back in from 13 to 15lbs… I haven’t tried it before, I’m sure it would need some tweaking. Let us know how it goes.
Old 03-26-2018, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
I’m only familiar with aftermarket methods. But I’d think you could soften the initial onset of boost by dropping timing way down as boost builds up to your set point.

Assuming you build boost really fast and 15lbs was the goal… Try running like 8* of timing from 1lb to 13lbs, then ramp timing back in from 13 to 15lbs… I haven’t tried it before, I’m sure it would need some tweaking. Let us know how it goes.
Good info. Now that I feel that the car is solid and making power, I'm going to be stupid and put real street tires/stock sized DR's on them instead of the current big drag radials I'm running. Should make this even more drastic to figure out how to pull timing in the right spots.
Old 03-26-2018, 02:16 PM
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You're on pump gas and stock computer right? You just have that last row of the main timing table to play with right? Or have you scaled the maf ?
Old 03-26-2018, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by truckdoug
You're on pump gas and stock computer right? You just have that last row of the main timing table to play with right? Or have you scaled the maf ?
Yes pump gas, stock PCM. I have the MAF scaled to ~60% of the original, so I've got columns to play with on launch, and then once it gets into real boost/rpm then I jump to the final column in the spark table.

Last edited by ddnspider; 03-26-2018 at 06:36 PM.
Old 03-26-2018, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
Yes pump gas, stock PCM. I have the MAF scaled to ~60% of the original, so I've got rows to play with on launch, and then once it gets into real boost/rpm then I jump to the final column in the spark table.
​​​​​​ Impressive. Can't do that in OLSD I suppose.
Old 03-26-2018, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by truckdoug
​​​​​​ Impressive. Can't do that in OLSD I suppose.
With a 2 bar OS you could, but yeah otherwise you're strictly looking at the 105kpa vs rpm column of the VE table. While the MAF transfer function can't "see" boost, it can see airflow at a given boost when it's scaled. This keeps you from the dredded PE raping as some people call it.
Old 03-26-2018, 07:23 PM
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I'll have to give that a try on my next project. mp112 on a 5.3/cd009 in my e34 touring and probably even gonna use an AIR FILTER god forbid
Old 03-26-2018, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by truckdoug
I'll have to give that a try on my next project. mp112 on a 5.3/cd009 in my e34 touring and probably even gonna use an AIR FILTER god forbid
that should make for a fun ride.
Old 03-26-2018, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by jordoza
Depending on th pid you are using for tps it is possible you were wot but it reads duty cycle so it only says 90 percent. Its like that if i pick the wrong pid on my car. Not saying you did that just that i have in the past and it is something to check.
i actually experienced this very situation last year. TPS position fluctuated at idle and WOT never reached 100% (if I recall it was in the high 80’s to low 90’s). I switched the PID and all was back to normal.
Old 03-26-2018, 09:56 PM
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I was using a 3.5” x 5.5”long air filter and I saw significant increases in fueling needed when I removed it (indicating more power). If I recall, I had to add around 8% more fuel under WOT.
Old 03-26-2018, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
Elbow probably hurts more than the filter lol
see my previous post. I also had about 30” of 3.5” pipe and a tight 90 into to the turbo (which could have been a component of the restriction - to your point).
Old 03-26-2018, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
And exactly what intake path and filter were they using ?

And how does it not compute ?

No filter or anything on the turbo could be quite a turbulent area to draw air from. Running some pipe, or better still pipe to a bellmouth would be a smoother flow path and undoubtedly be better.

If the filter is of adequate size to not restrict...which shouldnt be too difficult then again...there should be no downside, and a filter again can help to smooth airflow.

It would take a pretty nasty filter or massively undersized to pose a big enough restriction to really affect power. And lets face it, many run a crude screen or mesh directly over the turbo, which is probably by far the worst of all options
you are 100% correct in absolutely everything you mentioned.

I have done this back to back on the dyno.
Old 03-27-2018, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by RealQuick
I was using a 3.5” x 5.5”long air filter and I saw significant increases in fueling needed when I removed it (indicating more power). If I recall, I had to add around 8% more fuel under WOT.
pics/graphs/times?
Originally Posted by subeone
you are 100% correct in absolutely everything you mentioned.

I have done this back to back on the dyno.
pics/graphs/times?
Old 03-31-2018, 10:37 PM
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AIR FILTER FOR TURBO: Im really happy how mine came out, just finally got it made up after almost a year of using an ugly silicone bend. A/F got half a full point leaner. I was worried it wasn't going to fit in there but I guess I underestimated what a plasma cutter can do in 5 seconds for a hot rod.

If you look on right side you can see the tab for the pcv
4" AFE Dry filter, and on the far left side a factory hole (slightly enlarged) the leads to air from under the fender.

for more pics/info PM me as I am keeping it stealth in all aspects
Attached Thumbnails Air Filter for Turbo?-2sma.jpg  
Old 04-01-2018, 04:28 AM
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You put a U bend right in front of the turbo ?

Holy ****, I thought people putting 90deg bends were bad !!



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