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Now take it to the track! Then after driving it for a bit and sick of the power, do a more aggressive cam. For a stroker your **** is extremely undercammed, unless you are trying to pass smog?
I'm telling you... With the stroker you will have plenty of torque for a much larger cam and gain at least 20 to 30rwhp to boot. Drive this **** around for awhile and when you save about another grand, do a cam!
For a stroker your **** is extremely undercammed, unless you are trying to pass smog?
IDK about the Op...but yeah some build small cam strokers because they need to deal with smog tests.....I did. Have a 218/224 off the shelf Comp cam that makes very close to those #'s, slightly more TQ on a 91 octane shorty header H/C 383
Sure a 383 will easily eat more cam...but if emission testing affects you...that's the way you go
Glad to hear these are considered good numbers for the combo. I was really hoping to see at least 400 on the screen, but it sounds like dynos can vary a lot between each other. I guess the biggest take away is that after down sizing the cam but upgrading the heads and intake I'm +40hp and +10tq over the last combo. And really when you look at the whole curve I'm +15ish hp and +25ish tq everywhere else other than the peak.
I don't have emissions to worry about, I just could never get the 503 to ride smooth enough around town. And that's how I use this car a vast majority of the time, just puttin around town. It was always jolty no matter what and this new cam took care of it for the most part. Still needed some afr tweaking.
Speaking of afr, the dyno was reading way off my wideband during WOT. The first run we did my wideband had afr at 12.6 ramping up to 13.0 by the end of the pull but the dyno was reading 13.5 for all of it and it only made 370hp. We added a ton of fuel for the next run and made 396hp at 12.9 according to the dyno. Eventually we got it at 12.6-12.8 for the whole run and ended up with the 390/380 but my wideband was reading around 11.75 for the whole run. What the heck?
I'm pretty sure my wideband is accurate at least in all other conditions because when it reads rich or lean at idle or when cruising, my nose confirms the afr reading. Is it possible it's way off only at WOT? Or is that not possible?
If it's not pulling timing then just run the bitch. It could also be drivetrain vibration. However, as already suggested, please, for the sake of valvetrain geometry, check your sweep! Check my response in your other thread as well.