Threadlocker for exhaust studs ?
#1
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I got the ARP studs for my headers ( no more broken bolt problems for me ! ) they are $$$ but totally worth it IMO....I used anti seize on the head side of the stud to keep the stainless studs from reacting to the aluminum but now I am rethinking that heat cycles may back the studs out from the head side rather than the nut side....should I use high temp red threadlocker for peace of mind ?
#2
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Threadlocker breaks down at about 500 degrees F, and exhaust gas is over 700.
There's no extra peace of mind to be found in that.
There's no extra peace of mind to be found in that.
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#3
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You will be fine with the anti seize. The studs won’t turn once the nuts are tight.
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You be better off with a mechanical type lock vs threadlocker compound
#7
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I use plain header bolts on my car. I'v used the mechanical locking type, Althought they work well, they're a PITA to work with. I put a little bit of high temp copper silicone on the threads during assembly. I've never had a bolt come loose. I also use the same silicone instead of a gasket.
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I don't want to ping the linking policy, so if you google or search summit for "Stage 8 Locking Header Bolt Kits 8909" you'll get the idea. They can be a pain as said above, but i prefer that to having to clean threads. The silicone is a good idea. i just really don't like the residue from loctite or similar especially on aluminum threads, which are already softer than the bolts.
#9
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You should have seen some locking nuts to match the ARP studs right on the same page in a Megs or speedway catalog.. They have a clip that locks the nut on the stud...
#11
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backstory.........I paid 200$ to have broken exhaust bolts removed from the heads....I had bought some of those locking stage 8 bolts when I put TSP headers on my old car....but they would not fit....dont know where those bolts went off to as they were never used.....I decided that ARP header studs would would save me from stuck / broken bolts again....we know that you never TQ a stud down in its threaded hole....and we also know that heat cycles loosens bolts/nuts.....I just dont want the heat cycles to loosen from the head side rather than nut side....or they may just loosen from both...car wont be running for awhile to know
#13
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Those looks nice. I have never had a header bolt come loose on an LS motor with just anti-seize and stock style gasket. The LS headers thick flanges seem to cure the problem. SBC motors i always had header bolts that came loose.
#14
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I got the ARP studs for my headers ( no more broken bolt problems for me ! ) they are $$$ but totally worth it IMO....I used anti seize on the head side of the stud to keep the stainless studs from reacting to the aluminum but now I am rethinking that heat cycles may back the studs out from the head side rather than the nut side....should I use high temp red threadlocker for peace of mind ?
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Those nordlocks look a lot like the belleville washers we use to keep tension on bolts I bet they do work great. I can imagine them working TOO great. LOL