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&%#$/<&%#Damn cam retainer plate screws......

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Old 07-14-2024, 09:04 AM
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Default &%#$/<&%#Damn cam retainer plate screws......

I've had problems with these before. But never like this! I got 2 of them out on drivers side. But the other %@#@#$%#$ side is a royal PITA. I've learned that my acetylene torch is my friend. But it didn't help on the last 2. Several years back, before I tried heat, I broke an M5 drive bit on some allen head flat heads. Heat fixed that issue. These are #40 Torx. I hope the ME who designed the newer style plate has to remove his own retainer plate screws. I tried the torch and a cold chisel. Just ruined the screw. I have an impact driver and a BFH. HATE to hit on the cast aluminum like that. It may work on one of the remaining screws, but the chiseled head is pretty much ruined. A few Benjamins for a welder?? NEVER had this problem to this degree before. I'd like to know why GM reinvented the wheel by changing this design from the original LS1 hex head screw design? WTF were they thinking??! It worked great, so they fixed it. Yeah.....

Last edited by grinder11; 07-14-2024 at 09:11 AM.
Old 07-14-2024, 10:48 AM
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WTF..did somebody use Loctite 270 on them?
Old 07-14-2024, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 01CamaroSSTx
WTF..did somebody use Loctite 270 on them?
Nope. 242 blue. "Removable." I have 1 of the 2 that still have a good head. Used a BFH and the impact. It won't budge. Called a mobile welder, he's on the way. Another $200 bite the dust....Or my ***!!
Old 07-14-2024, 01:03 PM
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Like my buds at work said "Dont ever use Loctite on flat head screws." Now I finally get it.....
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Old 07-14-2024, 03:49 PM
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Maybe somebody up there doesn't like me or my LS7, LOL! Mobile welder got here, and had to use his Miller generator, because my two 220v circuits in the garage are hard wired. 1 to the compressor, the other to the 2 post lift. Got everything set up and ready, and he started the generator. It ran for several minutes, and stalled! We went out to check it out. The muffler outlet broke off, filling the enclosure with hot exhaust gasses. The thermal protector shut it down. So, we're done for the day!!! Guy is certified and has good equipment. He welds on military stuff for the U.S. Government. **** happens. So I'm dead in the water until at least Friday. DOHHH!!!!!!!
Old 07-14-2024, 09:39 PM
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I’ve had to weld nuts on the face of those heads in the last few engines I’ve had in here. Sucks. Keep your head up Mike, your a trooper.
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Old 07-15-2024, 11:59 AM
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When I had that problem, drilling the screw head and using an easy out\bolt extractor worked well. The screw drilled out pretty easily and the retainer plate came off taking the tension off the screw and it came out pretty easily. I also had problems getting the flat head torx screw out on the front rotors of my GMC sierra pickup where drilling the head off worked well too. Not sure why they even need the torx screws on the rotor though since the wheel lug nuts keep the rotor secured well.
Old 07-15-2024, 12:52 PM
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Not sure why they even need the torx screws on the rotor
So that they could handle all that stuff during vehicle assembly without the rotors falling off. Once the vehicle left the factory, they're totally useless.
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Old 07-15-2024, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle
I’ve had to weld nuts on the face of those heads in the last few engines I’ve had in here. Sucks. Keep your head up Mike, your a trooper.
Thanks, Scott. Its been tough, but it could always be worse. Welding a nut on each flathead is exactly what this guy is going to do. Or, WAS going to do!! BTW, did you also use heat for the Loctite to make removal easier?

Last edited by grinder11; 07-15-2024 at 06:03 PM.
Old 07-15-2024, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by vegas_ss
When I had that problem, drilling the screw head and using an easy out\bolt extractor worked well. The screw drilled out pretty easily and the retainer plate came off taking the tension off the screw and it came out pretty easily. I also had problems getting the flat head torx screw out on the front rotors of my GMC sierra pickup where drilling the head off worked well too. Not sure why they even need the torx screws on the rotor though since the wheel lug nuts keep the rotor secured well.
Basically for saving time, work, and $$$. Much like the spring hose clamps, which work great....... until they lose a bit of tension. But in both cases, they get the car down the assembly line quicker....
Old 07-15-2024, 06:22 PM
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And that's why I like to use the old style plates when possible. Yes, They are still available new through Mahle.

However, not all timing sets work with the old style plate and protruding bolts...
Old 07-15-2024, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by grinder11
Thanks, Scott. Its been tough, but it could always be worse. Welding a nut on each flathead is exactly what this guy is going to do. Or, WAS going to do!! BTW, did you also use heat for the Loctite to make removal easier?
Mike, the welding of the nut to the face of the bolt was plenty of heat to get the bolts out. Seems like the blue stuff goes gooey at 300ish degrees?
I quickly set my mig gun down and put a ratchet on the welded nut to ensure I got to turning while it’s still hot. They backed right out easily. What I had going for me in my favor was that I was disassembling the engines…welding spatter didn’t matter to me. In your case, keeping welding debris out of your engine would be my top priority. I’d consider throwing a couple two-three of my wife’s best bath towels in the kitchen sink, and get them good and wet…not dripping…and stuff them babies in the front of that engine to keep the welding splatter away.
Old 07-15-2024, 10:29 PM
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Use a flat punch just smaller than the head of the bolt. Give it a couple of good whacks with a hammer. Bolts will come out easily.
Old 07-16-2024, 04:17 AM
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All you need is an impact driver. Bevel head screws can be a bitch on no matter what they're on. Especially brake rotors. $10 or so at HF. most are 1/2" drive so you just adapt the torx socket. I've only done a few hundred of them.

here's the HF one.

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-bit-...RoCc_kQAvD_BwE
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Old 07-16-2024, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by SAPPER
All you need is an impact driver. Bevel head screws can be a bitch on no matter what they're on. Especially brake rotors. $10 or so at HF. most are 1/2" drive so you just adapt the torx socket. I've only done a few hundred of them.

here's the HF one.

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-bit-...RoCc_kQAvD_BwE
I use those for carburetor bowl Phillips screws and motorcycle/atv engine case Phillips screws. Never tried it on the torx cam bolts. I will next one that comes in…
Old 07-17-2024, 04:46 PM
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Do yourself a favor and make the next one the old style without the countersunk holes. Mahle B31822 is the part number I used on my LS7, I got it from Rock Auto. I think you may need the ARP cam plate bolt kit to make sure there is enough clearance to the new style cam gear if I remember correctly.
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Old 07-22-2024, 03:04 PM
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@Bob570 2 questions.
1: Does the ARP kit merely contain 4 low head style hex head bolts?
2: Do all Mahle B31822 plates use hex heads instead of flat heads. Thanks for responding....
Old 07-22-2024, 03:19 PM
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I used that mahle plate on my last build. A lot easier with the old style bolts. Didn’t have to chamfer it much either for the rollmaster chain. The center hole was punched clean with no extra flashing/lip.
Old 07-22-2024, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by grinder11
@Bob570 2 questions.
1: Does the ARP kit merely contain 4 low head style hex head bolts?
2: Do all Mahle B31822 plates use hex heads instead of flat heads. Thanks for responding....
1.The bolts are standard hex head ARP bolts

2.Yes, that is the non countersunk plate. Uses standard hex head bolts.
Old 07-22-2024, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by grinder11
@Bob570 2 questions.
1: Does the ARP kit merely contain 4 low head style hex head bolts?
2: Do all Mahle B31822 plates use hex heads instead of flat heads. Thanks for responding....
1. I believe so, yes. I guess I can't say I remember for sure but it worked on my car.
2. Yes

The part# for the ARP kit is ARP 134-1002. I used that with the a stock Gen 4 timing gear, it's $8 at Summit.


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