Is this clean enough for an MLS gasket
#1
Is this clean enough for an MLS gasket
I am having to helicoil a spark plug thread due to the dingo that previously owned my c5. Anyway I started cleaning the head surface with plastic razor blades and brake clean and this is where I am so far. I know I still should clean it a bit more but I want to get an idea of how smooth and clean it needs to be because it feels fairly smooth right now. I haven't done a head gasket before, this is an original MLS gasket car and I will be putting an oem MLS gasket on it when reinstalling the head.
The following users liked this post:
DiyDoIDoThisc5 (07-15-2024)
#4
I am having to helicoil a spark plug thread due to the dingo that previously owned my c5. Anyway I started cleaning the head surface with plastic razor blades and brake clean and this is where I am so far. I know I still should clean it a bit more but I want to get an idea of how smooth and clean it needs to be because it feels fairly smooth right now. I haven't done a head gasket before, this is an original MLS gasket car and I will be putting an oem MLS gasket on it when reinstalling the head.
Spoiler!
Last edited by NathanWhite; 07-25-2024 at 11:59 PM.
The following users liked this post:
DiyDoIDoThisc5 (07-16-2024)
The following 2 users liked this post by bthomas:
DiyDoIDoThisc5 (07-16-2024), G Atsma (07-16-2024)
#6
I've heard of some people using the copper but some have also advised against it. I'll probably just Reinstall dry and if it leaks go from there.
#7
TECH Enthusiast
I was advised by Tony Mamo to clean up my block surface with 200 grit sandpaper on a large sanding block, and WD40. Looked much better than that, no sealing problems.
The following users liked this post:
DiyDoIDoThisc5 (07-17-2024)
Trending Topics
#8
Personally I prefer not to use the copper stuff. Those gaskets already come with a coating that does the same thing. It probably doesn't hurt but I think it doesn't really add much either.
The following 3 users liked this post by RB04Av:
#9
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
I've done it both ways with MLS gaskets with no leaks but if a light copper spray is good enough for the pro's then it's good enough for me.
The following users liked this post:
DiyDoIDoThisc5 (07-17-2024)
#10
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
I’ve done this on sloppy turbo builds with zero issues at 20psi. It works well. Go in a criss-cross pattern.
The following 2 users liked this post by Che70velle:
1FastBrick (07-18-2024), DiyDoIDoThisc5 (07-17-2024)
#11
the only thing that freaks me out about the sand paper even with the wd40 is the aluminum oxide that can and will work it's way to bearings and ruin a motor, I'd prefer to try it without the sand paper first time around. If I was completely disassembling the block and could clean out every surface than sure but I don't like it personally.
#12
TECH Enthusiast
the only thing that freaks me out about the sand paper even with the wd40 is the aluminum oxide that can and will work it's way to bearings and ruin a motor, I'd prefer to try it without the sand paper first time around. If I was completely disassembling the block and could clean out every surface than sure but I don't like it personally.
The following 2 users liked this post by grubinski:
Che70velle (07-17-2024), DiyDoIDoThisc5 (07-17-2024)
#14
😎👍
__________________
www.mamomotorsports.com
Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
www.mamomotorsports.com
Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
The following users liked this post:
1FastBrick (07-18-2024)
#15
TECH Enthusiast
#16
12 Second Club
iTrader: (13)
On an engine still in the car, I wouldn't use sandpaper OR scotchbrite. Hell, not even on the stand either. I literally just cleaned a block for my fab guy, and I sprayed the surface down with CRC gasket clean, waited 10 minutes, then used a plastic scraper to scrape 90% of the residue away. Applied another coat and side bladed the block surface with a steel razor blade ( basically, scraping with it held 90 degrees to the surface ). This removed the very fine layer of residue that was left, which I believe is the coating from the factory MLS gasket. The whole process of deck cleaning takes a long time, however. I think I was working at it for at least 2 hours. I inadvertently figured out that the CRC stuff removes carbon from piston tops amazingly well. It basically wipes off after an application.
The following users liked this post:
DiyDoIDoThisc5 (07-18-2024)
#17
On an engine still in the car, I wouldn't use sandpaper OR scotchbrite. Hell, not even on the stand either. I literally just cleaned a block for my fab guy, and I sprayed the surface down with CRC gasket clean, waited 10 minutes, then used a plastic scraper to scrape 90% of the residue away. Applied another coat and side bladed the block surface with a steel razor blade ( basically, scraping with it held 90 degrees to the surface ). This removed the very fine layer of residue that was left, which I believe is the coating from the factory MLS gasket. The whole process of deck cleaning takes a long time, however. I think I was working at it for at least 2 hours. I inadvertently figured out that the CRC stuff removes carbon from piston tops amazingly well. It basically wipes off after an application.
#18
On an engine still in the car, I wouldn't use sandpaper OR scotchbrite. Hell, not even on the stand either. I literally just cleaned a block for my fab guy, and I sprayed the surface down with CRC gasket clean, waited 10 minutes, then used a plastic scraper to scrape 90% of the residue away. Applied another coat and side bladed the block surface with a steel razor blade ( basically, scraping with it held 90 degrees to the surface ). This removed the very fine layer of residue that was left, which I believe is the coating from the factory MLS gasket. The whole process of deck cleaning takes a long time, however. I think I was working at it for at least 2 hours. I inadvertently figured out that the CRC stuff removes carbon from piston tops amazingly well. It basically wipes off after an application.
Did the surface you cleaned look much cleaner. After some more work the head feels completely smooth. But it still looks fairly similar to the initial pictures I posted?
#19
12 Second Club
iTrader: (13)
This is a crappy pic of what it looked like after cleaning. No, the deck surface didn't look much different after blading it, but there was definitely a lot of residue that came off. You'll never get it looking like it was freshly machined, but if you remove the residue it should be ready for assembly.
#20
TECH Resident
iTrader: (14)
On an engine still in the car, I wouldn't use sandpaper OR scotchbrite. Hell, not even on the stand either. I literally just cleaned a block for my fab guy, and I sprayed the surface down with CRC gasket clean, waited 10 minutes, then used a plastic scraper to scrape 90% of the residue away. Applied another coat and side bladed the block surface with a steel razor blade ( basically, scraping with it held 90 degrees to the surface ). This removed the very fine layer of residue that was left, which I believe is the coating from the factory MLS gasket. The whole process of deck cleaning takes a long time, however. I think I was working at it for at least 2 hours. I inadvertently figured out that the CRC stuff removes carbon from piston tops amazingly well. It basically wipes off after an application.