RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

Have to ship a guy a transmission today then after that I will be pulling the tires, sold the rims, then pulling the rear and giving the body a nice happy home on some jack stands until I get my cage kit and stuff on it.

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

I know your car works did you ever get a new car quest high performance distributor cap?

car_fixer

no i went down to auto zone and got the lifet ime warrantee one.......no really since summit racing is right by my house i got a msd cap and 2 rotors, of course the rotors are updated so i had to move the dist a couple of teeth to line the rotor up right.
Where are you going to get the cage kit?

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

I have no idea, I am thinking RJ Rcae cars. If I had a tub bender I would like to do it myself, I have to look at the cost of getting one, I may build a 25.2 style in mild steel, I'd like moly but I am not an experienced tig welder, mild steel I can mig weld myself, being I am doing mycar myself in a garage it'll help a lot, but I can always tack it all in and go get it welded, I have a buddy that is a welding business owner that does nothing but tig and mig 5 days a week for 20 years.

100 pounds less would be nice but if I can save 1000 in welding, I might go that route. I want to break 8's I figure I can get it to come in around 2900, so I'll need about 850 hp, should make that on motor or close to it and still have a motor I can add 300 hp on top of so I am thinking make maybe 800 hp and toss a 150 shot on it and I'll be in there.

68maro

number 1 you cant do 25.2 in MS number 2 if your worried about weight that much and you only wanna break 8's then just buy a 10 point kit get it certed to 8.50 and call it a day. you can always add on later as money and time permits

car_fixer

I must say he is building a demented street car, not a race car, It will never have to worry about going quicker than 7.50 which a 25.5 cage would cert to if done right,but he kind of screwed that up by hacking out too much already...like the floor an firewall. He is going for a pro street look , and atleast he wants to be safe doing it, so i dont think there is a need to get crazy about it. I agree that a 25.2 car cant be mild steel, so maybe he should say pro street 25.2 style car /cage instead, bottom line, he is building a street car that may play at the track sometimes, so he will be over built for what he runs...better than building junk and running it down the track way faster than it should be going. and as far as converting a regular 8.50 cage to have a funnycar cage is really not feasible if you arent willing to cut the roof off (like if it was already painted for example) and most of the stuff thats there will need to get hacked out, so just build it the first time

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

I know you can't build a 25.2 out of mild steel. I cut the firewall and floor out to save weight and build the floor up higher for exhaust clearance. A sportsman cage wouldn't let me do that.

I may go mild steel to save some money, but even if it would only cert to 7.50 I would still build it to a 25.2 spec style.

I wouldn't put just a sportsman style cage in something that fast, even if it is good to 8.50's I would still feel safer with a 25.5 or 25.2 style setup. It should take about 850 hp to run in the 8's how I'd like to with the car weighing what I think it will around 2900, from the size motor I am building along with up to a 300 shot it should easily exceed the 8 sec barrier.

I'm still researching my combo, but looks like it will be a 598 in a 10.200 block, with a 4.50 stroke it should be boost friendly later when I have cash to step it up. Edelbrock RFD 24* heads, sniper intake, shaft rockers, msd7al-3 or digital 7, single dominator on pump gas I'm shooting for 800 something hp with a moderate size cam and 11-1 or so compression.

A lot of the build is still up in the air motor wise. I am leaning towards a TH400 with a 2.10 1st gear, which should be more fun to drive than a P/G on the street since I am only going 3,500 stall or so.

I'm going to brace the car up, then cut out the rest of the floor, it has subframes under the floor now, which I will cut out once it is braced. Then I'd like to raise the floor close to 2" so I can pick up some exhaust room since I obviously won't be running 3" pipes under the car with a 598 on spray

68maro

just out of curiosity why would you cut the roof off?

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

To make it easier to weld if you are not cutting out the floor.

My car is about 1 foot off the ground, so I will use self tapping screws in the subframe plates and the plates where I attach the body in the rear frame then after I tack the entire cage up, I will remove the screws and since I have no floor the cage drops to the ground, then I have 1 foot of room above the cage to final weld everything, then I can paint the top of the cage.

After that you raise the entire frame up, line it back up then weld in subframe and rear plates to the body.

car_fixer

if you build a cage that fits well, you wont be able to weld alot of the top joints
like this, i wouldnt want to try and weld up there, and since the rest is all welded in, the cage wont move down

68maro

then you need a new chassis guy

car_fixer

oh and you are so awesome? I built that one in the pic so i know how close to the roof it is, and i know what it is attached to isnt moving. and on top of that a 25.5 cage requires a crossmember under the main hoop, so basicially this whole conversation is a waste of time anyway

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

LOL and let the games begin.........

68maro

no i cant build a cage. dont claim to be able to. and i just had my 68 updated from the old 7.50 sportsman cage to 25.5 and it's tight. my 3rd gen is being done now. and i have a friend just had his old sportsman cage done to 25.5. all fits well. the floor wasnt cut and no roofs were harmed in the making of this conversion.
chris car http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=50413 i can find more before and afters.
and mine

car_fixer

from what i can see there is enough room to get a mini tig torch above that main hoop, i know i cant..i used it as a gauge lol, the only bar that looks close is the bar over the door which doesnt appear to have been modified, however it is a nice looking job, welding wise, except i dont know what was there before

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

I'm cutting out my floor and all the extra stuff for weight reduction, but being I am doing my entire car myself, without a floor it is easier to drop the cage and weld it up.

You have to remember I build cars with a 99.00 dollar tool set

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

Ordered my 25.5 book today

car_fixer

just keep adding tube untill you dont know where to put any more lol

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

I'll put just enough that I don't think it will twist like a pretzel.

Besides my car will be slow anyways, I'm just putting the 600" BBC, fogger, 4 link, big tire, and tube frame stuff for looks

According to your buddy "the trend" is a small drag radial with an LSX, everything else is junk and not "in" So I'm pretty much just building a POS lol.

car_fixer

lol. after you get the 25.5 specs you will look at them and say wtf? i read it and decided to edit out the parts that werent relevant so i could flip back and forth easier, also made a few notes on the pages to point to the page with the pic they are talking about.
Hey i might have found a 4th gen camaro for 500 bucks with a blown head gasket...I am thinking there might be a use for that body..you know skinney tires and maybe a v-6 so i can be in and cool