DMarts10

iTrader: (2)

It’s cardboard. Plate is supposed to be delivered today though. I’m hoping that I can get the plate in and engine installed in the next couple days. I work tonight and tomorrow so time is limited.

DMarts10

iTrader: (2)

BishopTS

I feel like the factory hood could never work with this current setup.

BishopTS

Definitely need to polish up that intake and show it off to the world

DMarts10

iTrader: (2)

This is the standalone wiring behind the hvac delete plate.

BishopTS

Looks clean. Are you still going to run the dashboard?

DMarts10

iTrader: (2)

Thanks. Yes dash is going back in.

BishopTS

Does the box on the right have a positive post for battery hot and key hot?

DMarts10

iTrader: (2)

Both fuse boxes are ignition relay activated. Come to think about it I need to make sure they get power during cranking and ignition key positioning. I’m sure there will be some gremlins to hunt down when I get to that point.

BishopTS

I had that bite me in the *** on a LS swap I did one time. I had put the fuel injector power wires on a key hot that went away in the start position so it would crank no start until you let off the key and it would fire up sometimes but not all the time.

BishopTS

Did you ever check starter engagement?
also what transmission are you planning on going to once the engine tosses that 4L60 out the back?

DMarts10

iTrader: (2)

i checked the engagement when the engine was on my garage floor. Should be good to go.

4l80e with a tunnel mount torque arm and a moser ford 9” is the plan.

DMarts10

iTrader: (2)

Ended up pulling the exhaust manifolds. There are clearance issues with the frame and firewall on both sides. I started bending hammering and cutting then decided to order some bbc long tubes instead. If the long tubes need modification, I’ll be much more capable of welding steel then cast.

now I have hours of rusted exhaust stud extraction ahead of me.

BishopTS

Can't you just weld nuts onto the broken studs? I do that with LS engines all the time and it works pretty good

DMarts10

iTrader: (2)

Easy stuff on aluminum heads. Cast iron is a different animal. Same method but you have to heat the **** out of the cast iron.

BishopTS

I usually bank on the fact that you have to get cast iron really hot to get a weld to stick so I keep my temp hot enough to penetrate the stud but it won't stick to the cast iron. I also put fender washers over the bolt hole as a guide to focus the weld into the center of the stud then weld the nut to the weld that I made. But it's much easier on aluminum like you said

DMarts10

iTrader: (2)

Yeah it’s the same method I use (with washers). Only thing that sucks is that I just use mapp gas and a hand torch. I don’t feel like getting into an oxy ace setup, two more cylinder leases and finding a place in my small *** garage to store it. This isn’t my profession, Just a hobby, so I wouldn’t get enough use out of the stuff.

BishopTS

Ah I gotcha.

BishopTS

This is pretty cool. Not a bad setup for a home garage

DMarts10

iTrader: (2)

I love Deboss. Also I have a pretty decent multiprocess welder With tig torch and pedal, mig torch, arc cables, and spool gun. Just don’t want to have to get myself an oxy acetylene set up too. Here’s a pic of just the welder without my cart, at work, while I was making some architectural structures to hang from the ceiling.