Here are some photos of my setup. I hooked up everything to get a test run on the motor in the car. The fuel pump isn't what I'm using I just used it on the test run.

For those wondering about if you can take the dist. out with the motor in the answer is yes, you just need to cut the cowl all the way back to the firewall like I did. I take the cap off and the pull the dist. up and take it right out.

The only clearance issus I have right now is my wiper arm and my carb. But that has alot to do with my intake. My choses are to move the motor forward 1", go to a different intake or just have a drivers side wiper. I'm going to try moving the motor forward first. I've got to pull the motor so I can clean and repaint it so I'm going to try and modify the K-member some.






Here is where I was without the carb and before I cut on the cowl.

 

Here are some phots of my gauge set up. I just need to pull the main gauges and cover my board with some black vynl and mount it just right and put my dash back together.

 

Post more pics!!!

What are you doing for headers? any undercar shots??

 

The headers are Hooker Headers 2455. I had to cut the corners off the stock K-member for them to fit. I'll try and get some under car shots in a few days.

 

Nice I like the gauges and the engine.

 

very nice let us know the updates on moving it 1inch

 

I'm getting a crossmember for my transmission in a couple of days. I'm going to bolt that up and see where my trans is in relation to the crossmember. Once I do that I should know exactly how much I need to move the motor.

Also I'm supposed to be getting paid for 2 houses I've pressure washed so I'm going to be making a big order on some parts and maybe get this thing on the road.

 

UPDATE:

Well I've gotten my trans crossmember and I'm going to have to move the motor/trans forward two inches. This will solve my windshield wiper and carb interference issuse. Only problem is I'm going to have to order me a K-member to make this work. I spent alot of time and effort trying to make the stock k-member work but its just not worth it to continue that route. Plus with what I'd need to do on my stock k-member I can't imagine the structual stength to be that great even if I was able to get it to work.

Oh well, guess it'll be a week or two before I can order my k-member I just spent a huge chunk of $ on my alternator / all the brackets for alternator and power steering pump / alt, ps, wp & crank pullies / radiator and speedometer cable.

 

Looks good.A lot of work. isn't it?

 

How far back is your motor set? Can you measure say from the radiator support to the front of the block or something.
I'm expecting my 496 end of this week. My car was already modified by previous owner. Firewall moved back about 6 inches. K-member notched under the oil pan. Hope I don't have issues like you are having. I don't want to move the motor forward if I don't have to.

 

You shouldn't have any issues like mine unless you want to keep the winshield wipers. My main goal is to bolt the trans in its stock location and get my carb/windsheild to co-exist.