Big Block or Small Block?
Big Block or Small Block? Hey guys i'm putting back together my 66' Chevelle and i have a couple motors laying around and i just can't choose. My goals are for the car to be streetable and fast. Take in mind my Daily Driver is a LS1 Camaro with a Trex Cam and 4000 stalled TH350 so that's my idea of streetable.
1.) 4-bolt 355 with ported hump backs and small cam needs rings and bearings.
2.) 4-bolt 350 vortec needs rebuilt.
3.) 2 bolt 406 that i have 4 bolt caps for, 6 inch H-beam rods no crank no pistons. but i do have Canfield Alum. 215 Heads, Victor Jr., 750 Holley.
I do have the stock crank but i'm scared of that.
4.) 69' 396 oval ports 256 runners all stock needs rebuild
5.) 4-bolt 454 needs crank and rods. Square port heads though. I have a 366 crank that i think will make it a 427?
6.) 427 tall deck block numbers 478478, steel crank with alum. rods which i hear aren't good for the street?? and 13.1 comp. needs rebuilt. Alum Heads 14011077 castings i believe.
I have rockers for the Small Blocks and Big Blocks. A couple Intakes for both.
1150 dominator carb or the 750 Holley. I have two 383 cranks this stuff just keeps building up and i need to use it. I have a four speed, TH350 and TH400.
I want to make it a nice street car that will run low 10's high nines.??
I just can't choose?
1.) 4-bolt 355 with ported hump backs and small cam needs rings and bearings.
2.) 4-bolt 350 vortec needs rebuilt.
3.) 2 bolt 406 that i have 4 bolt caps for, 6 inch H-beam rods no crank no pistons. but i do have Canfield Alum. 215 Heads, Victor Jr., 750 Holley.
I do have the stock crank but i'm scared of that.
4.) 69' 396 oval ports 256 runners all stock needs rebuild
5.) 4-bolt 454 needs crank and rods. Square port heads though. I have a 366 crank that i think will make it a 427?
6.) 427 tall deck block numbers 478478, steel crank with alum. rods which i hear aren't good for the street?? and 13.1 comp. needs rebuilt. Alum Heads 14011077 castings i believe.
I have rockers for the Small Blocks and Big Blocks. A couple Intakes for both.
1150 dominator carb or the 750 Holley. I have two 383 cranks this stuff just keeps building up and i need to use it. I have a four speed, TH350 and TH400.
I want to make it a nice street car that will run low 10's high nines.??
I just can't choose?
406 IMO, it is lighter, if you do a big block, you will not see traction, the torque on the big gun will not hold on the street unless you are ready to do "other" mods to the rear of the car. I love big block though.
Well, I have always stuck with the small block, and the 400 is my favorite. My first 406 used stock 5.575" rods and a .030/.030 cast 3.75" crank. It took 200 hp nitrous just fine. The second 406 that I built has splayed 4-bolt mains, a 4340 crank, 6" H-beam rods, and Isky solid roller 260° with .602" lift. I turn this motor to 7,000 rpm and spray 200 to 250 hp. The cam is a little big for the street (I am struggling with getting the carb to idle in gear). But I do drive the car quite a bit. The best track times are 7.3 @ 94 and 6.5 @ 104 in the 1/8 mile.
In your case, I would try to build an engine with the strongest short block available with your existing parts and or checkbook. Since you already have a couple great sets of heads, the top end should bolt right on. Either small or big block should get you in the 10s on nitrous without any problem. Getting into the 9s with a nitrous street car will require some more compromises - like deep gears, higher stalls, light weight, 18° heads (which I am considering).
In your case, I would try to build an engine with the strongest short block available with your existing parts and or checkbook. Since you already have a couple great sets of heads, the top end should bolt right on. Either small or big block should get you in the 10s on nitrous without any problem. Getting into the 9s with a nitrous street car will require some more compromises - like deep gears, higher stalls, light weight, 18° heads (which I am considering).
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From: Gainesville, Florida # of drag strips runs: ?!?!?
Big block done right will get you your low 10s N/A on pump gas with the right heads, solid roller and a good supporting cast. The tall deck motor may cause fit problems, especially with headers and suspension. A small block can get you into the 10s too (likely high 10s with a '66 Chevelle weight unless lightened a good bit), but costs won't be much cheaper than a big block.
My opinion: use the 454 block and go 496 stroker, edelbrock oval-port heads, single plane intake and at least 850 carb (950 HP Holley work great if you can swing the cash), 3800 stall converter and 3.73 gears.
Derek
My opinion: use the 454 block and go 496 stroker, edelbrock oval-port heads, single plane intake and at least 850 carb (950 HP Holley work great if you can swing the cash), 3800 stall converter and 3.73 gears.
Derek
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Originally Posted by Chevy406
Well, I have always stuck with the small block, and the 400 is my favorite. My first 406 used stock 5.575" rods and a .030/.030 cast 3.75" crank. It took 200 hp nitrous just fine. The second 406 that I built has splayed 4-bolt mains, a 4340 crank, 6" H-beam rods, and Isky solid roller 260° with .602" lift. I turn this motor to 7,000 rpm and spray 200 to 250 hp. The cam is a little big for the street (I am struggling with getting the carb to idle in gear). But I do drive the car quite a bit. The best track times are 7.3 @ 94 and 6.5 @ 104 in the 1/8 mile.
In your case, I would try to build an engine with the strongest short block available with your existing parts and or checkbook. Since you already have a couple great sets of heads, the top end should bolt right on. Either small or big block should get you in the 10s on nitrous without any problem. Getting into the 9s with a nitrous street car will require some more compromises - like deep gears, higher stalls, light weight, 18° heads (which I am considering).
In your case, I would try to build an engine with the strongest short block available with your existing parts and or checkbook. Since you already have a couple great sets of heads, the top end should bolt right on. Either small or big block should get you in the 10s on nitrous without any problem. Getting into the 9s with a nitrous street car will require some more compromises - like deep gears, higher stalls, light weight, 18° heads (which I am considering).
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Originally Posted by Villain281H
Big block done right will get you your low 10s N/A on pump gas with the right heads, solid roller and a good supporting cast. The tall deck motor may cause fit problems, especially with headers and suspension. A small block can get you into the 10s too (likely high 10s with a '66 Chevelle weight unless lightened a good bit), but costs won't be much cheaper than a big block.
My opinion: use the 454 block and go 496 stroker, edelbrock oval-port heads, single plane intake and at least 850 carb (950 HP Holley work great if you can swing the cash), 3800 stall converter and 3.73 gears.
Derek
My opinion: use the 454 block and go 496 stroker, edelbrock oval-port heads, single plane intake and at least 850 carb (950 HP Holley work great if you can swing the cash), 3800 stall converter and 3.73 gears.
Derek
Originally Posted by raymond mckinney
What kind of car?
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From: Gainesville, Florida # of drag strips runs: ?!?!?
Originally Posted by raymond mckinney
I was thinking 496. But what's wrong with my Heads that i have and Intake and 1150 Holley? Do these heads not work? What about the intake? And its not that i don't have the money just trying to put these parts to use! It all ready has 4:11's 12bolt and a 4500 stall.
Good luck!
Derek
My vote is for the 454 as well. I would stroke it to a 489/496 as well. If you don't want to break the bank on the cylinder heads you might look at a set of the Dart Iron Eagle heads in the 308cc int runners. http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...s=false&N=+115
Teching In
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2
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From: Atlanta
Big block all the way... Those heavy chevelle NEED the monster torque to get them moving, but once it starts moving, it's moving fast! And don't worry about traction being a problem, build any motor hot enough and you'll have a traction problem. Set up your suspension right, and you'll be clicking off killer 60ft times and not worrying one bit about traction.
Take that 454, stroke it and poke it, put some racerites or afr's on it, the right bumpstick, good dual plane and holley hp.. very streetable and deep into the 10s
Take that 454, stroke it and poke it, put some racerites or afr's on it, the right bumpstick, good dual plane and holley hp.. very streetable and deep into the 10s
sorry, but imo a BBC is for far more than 10's if u have a built BBC and running
anything less than mid-low 9's i dont se the purpose of it.
i mean if u are going all out, with a BBC might as well go with bigger than 454
502 might as well be a starting point with killer heads, soliD roller etc.
LSX 454 FTMW
anything less than mid-low 9's i dont se the purpose of it.
i mean if u are going all out, with a BBC might as well go with bigger than 454
502 might as well be a starting point with killer heads, soliD roller etc.
LSX 454 FTMW
