383 Questions
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On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2005
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383 Questions Real quick guys, I was wondering which rods are better to go with on a 383 stroker, the 6.0" or the 5.7" rod? And I guess bore it .30 over? it is just a street car but i do want it to have some nuts. thanks in advance!
I am building one right now. Callies 3.75" Crank and 6" rods. Gonna do some JE Dished pistons and a set of cometic .040 gaskets, Cutsom Hydraulic roller cam and Tie bar lifters, Bowtie Iron heads, Victor Jr Intake, CSU Blow Thru Card and a nice custom S400 Turbo setup. Should be good for 750rwhp when finished with out breaking the bank.
As far as the 5.7" or 6" inch rods go. With a 6" inch rods you get an oil rail support and with 5.7" rods you dont have to have the oil rail support due to the pin being lower. I have always used 6" rods in all my 383 builds. I change the oil every 1500-2500 miles or less depending on how many times I run the car. I dont mind if it uses a little oil.
As far as the 5.7" or 6" inch rods go. With a 6" inch rods you get an oil rail support and with 5.7" rods you dont have to have the oil rail support due to the pin being lower. I have always used 6" rods in all my 383 builds. I change the oil every 1500-2500 miles or less depending on how many times I run the car. I dont mind if it uses a little oil.
last time i built a 383 with 6" rods i used mahle pistons and iirc they did not have the pin boss in the ring pack. the only other real tricks i have for you are making clearance for the extra stroke. when i build 383's i usually run small journal rods like a 327 has in it it'll get you a little more room. and the other thing i usually do since i upgrade rod bolts from the standard cap screws is when i call arp they offer what is called a "half head" bolt, that is to say the part of the cap screw where you put the socket on it is half as tall as a regular rod cap screw. after that theres alot less grinding.
you can also offset grind the crank slightly if you're turning the rod journals down vs buying one already that way, and save yourself the trouble of decking the block, i usually end up running pistons slightly proud of the deck and a thicker head gasket.
you can also offset grind the crank slightly if you're turning the rod journals down vs buying one already that way, and save yourself the trouble of decking the block, i usually end up running pistons slightly proud of the deck and a thicker head gasket.
http://www.rustpuppy.org/rodstudy.htm
Here's some in-depth info about the comparison. The longer the rod the more time the piston will spend at TDC making more power. The longer rod also allows for less sideloading the piston wall but as you will see the difference is very slight. There are many that run very powerful long lived 383's with 5.7" rods.
Here's some in-depth info about the comparison. The longer the rod the more time the piston will spend at TDC making more power. The longer rod also allows for less sideloading the piston wall but as you will see the difference is very slight. There are many that run very powerful long lived 383's with 5.7" rods.
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: NORTHEAST
On the 383's we build we have used 6 inch rods and the cranks we can internally balance due to the bigger counter weights.
And the longer rod in the 383 has always been a better deal and we have done some with the AFR's and some with a well prepared set of 906 Vortec heads and on the dyno the results are very similar.
Most of the 383's we have we have been using hydraulic cams at the customers request and if we went to a solid falt tappet or a roller cam there would be more of a gain.
Here is a link to one of the 383's we built.
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/show...highlight=DYNO
And the longer rod in the 383 has always been a better deal and we have done some with the AFR's and some with a well prepared set of 906 Vortec heads and on the dyno the results are very similar.
Most of the 383's we have we have been using hydraulic cams at the customers request and if we went to a solid falt tappet or a roller cam there would be more of a gain.
Here is a link to one of the 383's we built.
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/show...highlight=DYNO
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 199
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From: Austin, Texas
Originally Posted by raceking33
Real quick guys, I was wondering which rods are better to go with on a 383 stroker, the 6.0" or the 5.7" rod? And I guess bore it .30 over? it is just a street car but i do want it to have some nuts. thanks in advance!
I've got a 383 short block for sale right now ready to go. It has an 4340-forged steel eagle crank, JE pistons, H-beam forged rods, clevite rod and main bearings, new cam bearings, A.R.P. main bolts, M55 oil pump and oil pan. I'll let it go for $2500.00; I also have a Comp Cams timing set and a choice of two different cams to go with it.
I built this one for myself, I own Port Pros LLC. You can check out our web site at www.PortPros.com
We do excellent work and stand behind everything we build; I decide to go with a BBC instead. This motor will make a great street motor and can take 500HP no worries.
Give me a call if you’re interested.
Harold
512-257-0222
Last edited by PortPros1; Sep 27, 2007 at 01:19 PM.
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