Street Racing & Kill Stories Basic Technical Questions & Advice

Killed A 2011 Mustang 5.0

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Old 04-30-2011, 08:37 PM
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All posts are appreciated, please do not hold back. Can I just run a straight out slicks. Which is the best and safe way to do a "Burnout". The stupid question is the one not asked, when you have people working the strip and you let a 2 ton machine get out of control. Also do cutouts work best after the cats or in front. 1 cutout or 2. I am really learning, and trying to come down. This experience is second only to getting laid.
Old 04-30-2011, 09:01 PM
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Slicks do not last long at all on the street for any daily use, but the MT drag radials aren't as bad, but nittos last allot longer, then the flip side is nittos do not do so well at the track. With a manual, I roll through the water box and clutch out with a blip of the throttle to get the tires wet, then stop and rev to 4000 and come off the clutch to the breaks in 2nd gear, once I hear the tires start grippping I roll out and lay into the throttle for a second, then I am sully ready to stage.
Old 05-01-2011, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by ZONES89RS
Slicks do not last long at all on the street for any daily use, but the MT drag radials aren't as bad, but nittos last allot longer, then the flip side is nittos do not do so well at the track. With a manual, I roll through the water box and clutch out with a blip of the throttle to get the tires wet, then stop and rev to 4000 and come off the clutch to the breaks in 2nd gear, once I hear the tires start grippping I roll out and lay into the throttle for a second, then I am sully ready to stage.
Yeah I run Nittos on the street and MT on the track. MTs just don't hold up long enough on the street. And a line lock helps a lot for good burn outs.
Old 05-01-2011, 01:10 PM
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I never used a LL, never worried about it since i dont have a track car.
Old 05-01-2011, 01:25 PM
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OP... Get some seat time. That one can HAUL!
Originally Posted by WSsick
OP, good kill. Must've been the nerves getting to you the first time down the track. I missed 4th my first pass ever, so I know the feeling. :/
Think what it would've been like, if you had that build to boot!

You're right, 12:1 CR, 57cc LS6 heads, pretty decent sized cam, and ported FAST with matching throttle body is basically just cam only. Sorry man, that's what you call a H/C/I setup. He got the win in the end, so all else doesn't really matter.
Indeed...
Old 05-01-2011, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ohioborn80
I think biggest issue with camaro is its so heavy compared to the mustang.

My car weighed 3640 lbs with me in it and i weigh 215.
Dude..I think you should check you car's weight again... That is a really low weight for your 5.0. My MACH 1 is that weight. The new SN197 beginning in 05 weighed in more than SN95s. I know my MACH weighs less than your 5.0 by a good 150 to 200 lbs.
Old 05-01-2011, 04:31 PM
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nice kill
Old 05-01-2011, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by MACH32V
Dude..I think you should check you car's weight again... That is a really low weight for your 5.0. My MACH 1 is that weight. The new SN197 beginning in 05 weighed in more than SN95s. I know my MACH weighs less than your 5.0 by a good 150 to 200 lbs.
I checked it on 3 different scales. All within about 10 lbs of each other. This was with 1/4 tank gas at drag strip. Then again at military scale. As mentioned i have a base model. No fancy leather, nav, 6 disc changer or any other bull crap to weigh me down.

My shipping weight from ford was 3460ish... I know the fully loaded ones weigh a little more. Friends auto fully loaded weighed 38XX with him not in it. He weighs about 190lbs.

Last edited by ohioborn80; 05-01-2011 at 05:50 PM.
Old 05-01-2011, 05:22 PM
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Just weighed my 2011 Mustang GT Base (300A) w/ Manual 6-Speed.
Only Option is 3.55 Gears. This is not a Spoiler Delete Car.

Dry Shipping Weight (MSO): 3461 lb

Curb Weight - Light (3 gal of Fuel): 3520 lb
Weight Distr: 1920 lb (54.5%) F / 1600 lb (45.5%) R

Curb Weight - Full (16 gal of Fuel): 3600 lb
Weight Distr: 1940 lb (53.9%) F / 1660 lb (46.1%) R

That was on a Certified Scale that weighs individual axles and total seperately.
Should be accurate +/- 10 lb.

Take away the heavy rims which i did, some suspension upgrades that dropped weight, the 40lbs for spare tire and jack...Really easy get down to 3640 with me in it. I know when weighed it rims i had on was about 13lbs lighter each as well. Thats was not even with skinnies up front...White one i posted video of has his down to 35XX with cage.

http://www.gminsidenews.com/forums/f...tweight-92169/

http://forums.themustangsource.com/f...weight-483644/
Old 05-01-2011, 05:27 PM
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This is with full tank and all..

http://media.ford.com/images/10031/2...g_GT_Specs.pdf
Old 05-01-2011, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ohioborn80
My shipping weight from ford was 3460ish...that includes way it rolls off show room floor. I know the fully loaded ones weigh a little more. Friends auto fully loaded weighed 39XX with him not in it. He weighs about 190lbs.
Lemme get this straight... Your 2011 GT weighs 3460...minus some since you've scaled it at 3640 with you in it... minus 215 brings that down to 3425, but your friend has one that weighs some 500 lb more, tipping the scales at 3900+ sans driver... I can't see it. Even the info on the last linked page shows less than 200 lb difference between manual and automatic.

I can see a difference with weight removal, but that ain't gonna bring another GT's weight UP unless you put your stuff in that car.
Old 05-01-2011, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by It'llrun
Lemme get this straight... Your 2011 GT weighs 3460...minus some since you've scaled it at 3640 with you in it... minus 215 brings that down to 3425, but your friend has one that weighs some 500 lb more, tipping the scales at 3900+ sans driver... I can't see it. Even the info on the last linked page shows less than 200 lb difference between manual and automatic.

I can see a difference with weight removal, but that ain't gonna bring another GT's weight UP unless you put your stuff in that car.
Mine was 3640 with the weight i removed so far. Not that then removed weight.

Also that page shows less then 200lb difference of base models not loaded models.

His was loaded. Nav, all fancy lights every where, the shaker 1000 system, glass roof, which does weigh more the regular roof. He had a bigger wing, side scoops, hood scope. Leather, power seats, etc etc.

And my bad his was 38XX not 39XX..His was with full tank gas also.
Old 05-01-2011, 05:58 PM
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His was closer to 3900 then a flat 3800 though..Once start adding power everything, amp, subs, and all that crap it adds up fats over a base model.

If look a base model with full tank gas weighs 3600. That still pretty light when comparing to competition. Camaro and then the tank Chally.

My goal is get my car down to 3400ish with me in it. Shouldnt be to hard. I will be switching seats, k member, radiator support bar, front sway bar delete. Drive shaft. And few other things.
Old 05-01-2011, 06:07 PM
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Damn, that is a big difference, but it is as i would suspect, a stripper car VS fully loaded with all that heavier **** adds up quick.

The 4th gens were along that line, seen WS6 loaded at 3800 and stripper formulas at 3400.
Old 05-01-2011, 06:22 PM
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geeze that would explain all the races ive seen with the 5.0's and 5th gens real close, and the others where the 5th gen gets raped lol.
Old 05-01-2011, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Sticks n Stones
you know what I found the most surprising when I go to the track and see these new 5.0's running great times? It's not the look on the camaro clubs faces when they see a basic bolton naturally aspirated pony car running stout times: it's the worried look on all the mustang owners faces. Especially the supercharged crowd that is running near or at the same times as a bolton/tune 5.0 does. I **** you not, every one of the guys that has dropped serious coin on mods on there older stangs get that worried "oh **** I bettter mod up more" look. The stock to basic mods mustang guys, to a man, talk about trading there cars in on one. lol
Honestly I have yet to loose to a bolt on 5.0, and there is alot more potential in my set up, and the sky is the limit with my new motor. I always feel a little better if I get beat by a Ford then beat by any other brand anyhow. Older 4V motors once built can easily run with the new 5.0's. I do agree S/C stock 5.0 vs S/C stock 4.6 4V is an easy win for the 5.0 but once you are over 600RWHP both motors have to be built, and it evens out.
Old 05-01-2011, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Newskool Mach
Honestly I have yet to loose to a bolt on 5.0, and there is alot more potential in my set up, and the sky is the limit with my new motor. I always feel a little better if I get beat by a Ford then beat by any other brand anyhow. Older 4V motors once built can easily run with the new 5.0's. I do agree S/C stock 5.0 vs S/C stock 4.6 4V is an easy win for the 5.0 but once you are over 600RWHP both motors have to be built, and it evens out.
You have a built block though. A lot of 2Vs with superchargers don't and run in that ~400rwhp safe zone.
Old 05-01-2011, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Newskool Mach
Honestly I have yet to loose to a bolt on 5.0, and there is alot more potential in my set up, and the sky is the limit with my new motor. I always feel a little better if I get beat by a Ford then beat by any other brand anyhow. Older 4V motors once built can easily run with the new 5.0's. I do agree S/C stock 5.0 vs S/C stock 4.6 4V is an easy win for the 5.0 but once you are over 600RWHP both motors have to be built, and it evens out.
There is a few guys that are running over 600whp and few at 700whp for awhile now who are not on built blocks that would disagree with you.
Old 05-01-2011, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by ohioborn80
There is a few guys that are running over 600whp and few at 700whp for awhile now who are not on built blocks that would disagree with you.
They haven't been around long enough to have their reliability in question. They have cast pistons and 11+to1 compression which is not a good recipe for boost. Anything over 650 RWHP on a stock 5.0 is a time bomb, just my opinion.

Last edited by Newskool Mach; 05-01-2011 at 10:23 PM.
Old 05-01-2011, 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Newskool Mach
They haven't been around long enough to have their reliability in question. They have cast pistons and 11+to1 compression which is not a good recipe for boost. Anything over 650 RWHP on a stock 5.0 is a time bomb, just my opinion.
JPC been racing there 700whp for about 8 months..

But this also why they make the boss engine..Already forged internals. And can be bought from Ford already..Know a guy has one putting in the auto 5.0...Guy with white one in video matter fact...He waiting on a big stall to drop the motor in..



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