Odarabla's infinite BS thread for the foreskinned (AKA Smack Down)
Id like to but atm im investing money into alot of **** so eventually i might if the car doesn't sell. I got someone coming to see the car soon so who knows. If not its not big deal, ill just build a v6 or a fox or something. I like my car but as a toy there are lighter chassis to begin with.
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Ghey.
Still ghey.
Buddy has an Fbody with $10k into it including the cost of car that ran a 9.9@140.
I really want to sell you something.
This.
Not sure what type of investments you are talking about, but if they are the adult ones, let me know if you want some advice.
Still ghey.
This.
Not sure what type of investments you are talking about, but if they are the adult ones, let me know if you want some advice.
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I was thinking more on the lines of 18 to 20k for that car thats what kbb prices them at. Hell i even found a ls2 with a nitrous kit up to a 300 shot (if im not mistaken) on it built engine for sell for 25k. Id buy the built one over this stock one any day.
Go ahead and get you on of those then, see how much you actually spend. Do you know what it costs to build a 1000 whp capable motor, fuel system, drivetrain?
4k. Eagle crank, Callies rods, wiesco pistons, clevite bearings, melling oil pump, arp head studs, main studs, 243 heads. 0 miles.
There you go Mac, a 1kwhp capable motor at a discount, doesn't leave you much money to finish lol.
4k. Eagle crank, Callies rods, wiesco pistons, clevite bearings, melling oil pump, arp head studs, main studs, 243 heads. 0 miles.
There you go Mac, a 1kwhp capable motor at a discount, doesn't leave you much money to finish lol.
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Go ahead and get you on of those then, see how much you actually spend. Do you know what it costs to build a 1000 whp capable motor, fuel system, drivetrain?
4k. Eagle crank, Callies rods, wiesco pistons, clevite bearings, melling oil pump, arp head studs, main studs, 243 heads. 0 miles.
There you go Mac, a 1kwhp capable motor at a discount, doesn't leave you much money to finish lol.
4k. Eagle crank, Callies rods, wiesco pistons, clevite bearings, melling oil pump, arp head studs, main studs, 243 heads. 0 miles.
There you go Mac, a 1kwhp capable motor at a discount, doesn't leave you much money to finish lol.
I had about 7k in the motor, 6k in the turbo kit, 4k in the trans, 1200 for a converter, 1500 in the fuel system, the rear would have been another 2k if I hadn't bought a car with it. Plus all the misc bullshit. It adds up fast.
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Yep. Even a H/C car with decent heads is going to cost you when you factor putting it to the ground. I had around 8000$ in my WS6 and still hadn't done the rear end yet. I'd hate to calculate how much money I've spent on modding over the years, I'd probably have a heart attack. And that's buying a lot of things used off the forums.
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Yes it does. I learned that all to well with my TA and I'm glad I built it with quality components. The next car is going to be a budget beater with a chinese turbo on a junkyard pullout. **** it, stock 4l80e/converter with a shift kit. Stock motor with new springs, cam, gaskets, and 80lb injectors. Ebay **** components because I want to see what I can get away with in a 600-700whp fun **** box.
Close to $15k just in the motor of a POS LT1 .
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Yes it does. I learned that all to well with my TA and I'm glad I built it with quality components. The next car is going to be a budget beater with a chinese turbo on a junkyard pullout. **** it, stock 4l80e/converter with a shift kit. Stock motor with new springs, cam, gaskets, and 80lb injectors. Ebay **** components because I want to see what I can get away with in a 600-700whp fun **** box.
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Add in about 6K for a reliable turbo kit with a good fuel system (on the low side), about 3K for a decent rear to hold all that power, and 3K for a transmission. You're well over 7k, unless MAC is going to do the typical Fbody owner thing and just put all that power in there and not do anything to the trans/suspension/rear and not be able to put it down.
We have 4 local turbo kits now done with a cheap harbor freight welder with 0 issues thus far.
I've also hated how most guys only focus on power and nothing else. A few local turbo guys did that last season and wondered why their cars ran like dog ****. Now thankfully they are seeing the light and running 4l80s, 9" rears, and suspension.
Yes it does. I learned that all to well with my TA and I'm glad I built it with quality components. The next car is going to be a budget beater with a chinese turbo on a junkyard pullout. **** it, stock 4l80e/converter with a shift kit. Stock motor with new springs, cam, gaskets, and 80lb injectors. Ebay **** components because I want to see what I can get away with in a 600-700whp fun **** box.
The one Andy ran 9's on he got from the east side for $200 or $250
There's something to say about both a solid motor build and a JY build. I appreciate both. A nicely built motor is neat in that it's completely finished out and will live a long while. A JY build IMO is cool as well, b/c of its modularity and the fact that the car isn't built as much around a motor, but more around a turbo setup, w/ the motor being a throwaway. Denmah, is the king of this!
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The 5.3 is more desirable because it's generally cheaper and using some of the smaller turbos they can be pushed a little further than on a bigger cube motor. I only bought the 6.0 because I got all the matching **** for it from air box to driveshaft for too good a price. The way I see it is I'll end up getting a nice multidisk converter in the future for the TA. I'll "hand me down" the yank py3400 I have toward this build. Stock 80e converters will hold up to the abuse, they will just be turds until you get a proper stall.
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Meh, you can fab your own turbo kit for much cheaper.
We have 4 local turbo kits now done with a cheap harbor freight welder with 0 issues thus far.
I've also hated how most guys only focus on power and nothing else. A few local turbo guys did that last season and wondered why their cars ran like dog ****. Now thankfully they are seeing the light and running 4l80s, 9" rears, and suspension.
We have 4 local turbo kits now done with a cheap harbor freight welder with 0 issues thus far.
I've also hated how most guys only focus on power and nothing else. A few local turbo guys did that last season and wondered why their cars ran like dog ****. Now thankfully they are seeing the light and running 4l80s, 9" rears, and suspension.
The below statement is why I did all of the suspension/transmission work on my WS6 before I did the heads/cam combo. Was saving for a rear when I was forced to sell it cause of my divorce. If I found that car for sale I'd buy it back in a heartbeat.
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There's something to say about both a solid motor build and a JY build. I appreciate both. A nicely built motor is neat in that it's completely finished out and will live a long while. A JY build IMO is cool as well, b/c of its modularity and the fact that the car isn't built as much around a motor, but more around a turbo setup, w/ the motor being a throwaway. Denmah, is the king of this!
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I really don't wanna deal with replacing my window regulator currently, I can move the window by hand and it will hold its place just cant use the handle, been driving around with it since late last year and forgot to address it over the winter. Think I can get past tech with just wedging the window shut? If not I'll switch it but I'm lazy