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Odarabla's infinite BS thread for the foreskinned (AKA Smack Down)

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Old 07-11-2012, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 2SSARME
lol. Muffler just came off the car. Waiting to find a custom tip so I can run open headers.
You lost some weight doing that. Couldn't believe how much better it sounds and the weight loss on even a stock car-Phil did it to his.

Originally Posted by 2SSARME
Back to my other question


Do you run racing tubes on the street? I'm thinking may be bad idea because I'd have to run at like 6psi.... Without racing tubes I'm thinking of running on 15psi.
Inner-tubes actually prevent the tire from distributing air pressure evenly and properly. When using a tube, the bulk of the air pressure is placed on the center of the tire instead of evenly across the tread. Many racers use as little air pressure as possible in an effort to make the slick hook harder. When in fact, the average slick will hook its best without an inner-tube when air pressure is around 11 - 14 psi hot.
Too little air places most of its pressure on the outside edges of the slick, not fully utilizing the center. And too much air does the reverse. It's much the same with radial tires, if they're under-inflated the edges wear prematurely and over-inflation wears out the center of the tread so it will also make the car handle goofy.. So if you are rid of your tubes, start increasing air pressure a pound at a time until the car looses traction and then back up a pound. Another way to check for proper tire inflation is to drive through a small amount of water and then onto dry pavement. Look at the water marks the tires left. You'll easily be able to see if the contact patch is even or if it is favoring the edges or center.
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Old 07-11-2012, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 2SSARME
lol. Muffler just came off the car. Waiting to find a custom tip so I can run straight pipes.
Much better
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Old 07-11-2012, 08:12 PM
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Thanks Mike.
That's why I love you.
With tubes you'd have to use nails wouldn't you? Don't feel like doing that tbh. Just run tubeless and test 11+ psi until I lose traction and back it up?
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:34 PM
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Yup you don't need them at your power level. Wheels screws are drilled through the outer lip of the wheel and extend only a fraction of an inch into the tire, the purpose is to keep the slick from spinning on the rim during a hard launch. Its not needed and can actually hurt you. Don't worry about the slick spinning on the rim. If they're properly mounted, it's not a problem. Typically on a car with your power and weigh the tire will only move about one inch every 20 hard passes from a dig which is nothing to worry about.
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by wooddaniel
Thanks for the advice. Only question is, 135 or 335? I dont care either way; the body on both is appealing to me. And I like building my cars, Let me upload the vid to photobucket of my buddy's 402 Goat we built in my garage. I love turning wrenches. Never had any formal training, but learned from my dad (He owns a mechanic shop in town) over the years.

My heart's not really set on anything at this point. I have owned everything from F bodies to 2 GTO's and A g8gt. I love my Z06, I get compliments daily on it, but I am getting sick of the repairs and want something with a warranty to drive.
It depends on your needs. I love my 1 series, it's really tossable and feels a bit quicker than my heavier 335xi, but the 335i rwd model is a great in between. I'd say if you need the room get a 3er. If it doesn't matter and you want to shave a little money off go 135i. I got the 135i because I wanted the lightest n54 platform with m-sport package and 6speed for road course events and keep the 335xi as a DD.
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Morris
Yup you don't need them at your power level. Wheels screws are drilled through the outer lip of the wheel and extend only a fraction of an inch into the tire, the purpose is to keep the slick from spinning on the rim during a hard launch. Its not needed and can actually hurt you. Don't worry about the slick spinning on the rim. If they're properly mounted, it's not a problem. Typically on a car with your power and weigh the tire will only move about one inch every 20 hard passes from a dig which is nothing to worry about.
Awesome! Thanks man. But remember my power went up. On the doors of 700rwhp/rwtq. still don't think it should be a problem until I throw spray on top of it right?
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:04 PM
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I think you will be okay. As long as who ever mounting them knows what they are doing. Mark them with ink to see if they are spinning on the rim. Around an inch for every 20 hard passes is okay...
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:31 PM
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Okay. Yeah the guy doing all the work has 2 fast foxbodys. One runs 9s and runs on slicks/tubes, other ones a street car but running on 888s.
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Old 07-12-2012, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by willizm
It depends on your needs. I love my 1 series, it's really tossable and feels a bit quicker than my heavier 335xi, but the 335i rwd model is a great in between. I'd say if you need the room get a 3er. If it doesn't matter and you want to shave a little money off go 135i. I got the 135i because I wanted the lightest n54 platform with m-sport package and 6speed for road course events and keep the 335xi as a DD.
Alright. I got the day off today so I'm gonna go and look at some bimmers I guess lol
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Old 07-12-2012, 08:35 AM
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By the way guys feel free to donate to the Dan Wood needs a new Daily fund. I accept paypal and money orders.
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Old 07-12-2012, 08:54 AM
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I have a box of counterfeit nigerian money orders to the tune of about $1.2 million dollars. I'll send you all of them, you cash them and mail me back the change. Deal?
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Morris
. Typically on a car with your power and weigh the tire will only move about one inch every 20 hard passes from a dig which is nothing to worry about.
I had to put screws on my rims with my 320rwhp monster. After 3 passes it moved 1".

But 2SSRME probably won't spin on the rim because his suspension is about a stiff as a 13yr old watching Porkys for the first time. So he is safe.
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by AnnivSS
I have a box of counterfeit nigerian money orders to the tune of about $1.2 million dollars. I'll send you all of them, you cash them and mail me back the change. Deal?
Sounds too good to pass up!!! I get about 3 of those emails a day lol sad thing is people actually fall for that ****
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Old 07-12-2012, 10:08 AM
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Everytime i post on craigslist i get all that scam ****
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Old 07-12-2012, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by wooddaniel
Sounds too good to pass up!!! I get about 3 of those emails a day lol sad thing is people actually fall for that ****
Funny part is, im not lying lol. My dad works mail fraud cases for the postal inspection service and he got one of these clowns to mail him $1.2million worth of counterfeit money orders. All the guy recieved in return was a letter placing a curse on his family.
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Old 07-12-2012, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by wooddaniel
I test drove the C6 its not a Z51 so thats out. Plus they lied and said they only told me 13K for my trade... Ill keep it for that. Im seriously considering a 335 and keeping the vette and building the **** out of it... Its paid for anyways. I got a little $ to put down adn I have been seeing 335s used for 20-24 depending on options. I just dont want a hellacious paymet. My DD now is a ford probe but it is almost dead it needs a head gasket I think and I am about to scrap it. I cant figure out why its overheating.
If the C5Z is paid for I'd say stick with that and find a nice, classy, fun DD. I'm pretty biased on the subject as I'm looking at Bimmers for myself as well but I think it'd be fun to have the C5Z as a "raw" fun car and the BMW for a classy fun car that still gets decent gas mileage.
Originally Posted by wooddaniel
Thanks for the advice. Only question is, 135 or 335? I dont care either way; the body on both is appealing to me. And I like building my cars, Let me upload the vid to photobucket of my buddy's 402 Goat we built in my garage. I love turning wrenches. Never had any formal training, but learned from my dad (He owns a mechanic shop in town) over the years.

My heart's not really set on anything at this point. I have owned everything from F bodies to 2 GTO's and A g8gt. I love my Z06, I get compliments daily on it, but I am getting sick of the repairs and want something with a warranty to drive.
CPO BMW for sure. Better warranty than new BMWs lol
Originally Posted by willizm
It depends on your needs. I love my 1 series, it's really tossable and feels a bit quicker than my heavier 335xi, but the 335i rwd model is a great in between. I'd say if you need the room get a 3er. If it doesn't matter and you want to shave a little money off go 135i. I got the 135i because I wanted the lightest n54 platform with m-sport package and 6speed for road course events and keep the 335xi as a DD.
Yeah, 135i is perfect if you want a small nimble car and aren't they about 200+lbs lighter than the 3er's? Less weight, same motor, sounds fun to me!

I'm personally more partial to 335i coupe looks though. That is just me though. I would love both
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Old 07-13-2012, 03:28 PM
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So sn95 lovers in this forum, I have a kid on a facebook group that is trying to tell me his stock cube 289ci sn95 will make 550rwhp NA and is telling me all of these shops around here can do that - it just takes a lot of work.

Any body have the record HP on a stock cube sn95 5.0?

Sorry ahead of time for my ignorance on Ford products
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Old 07-13-2012, 03:36 PM
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Isnt the 5.0L 302ci? I thought the 289 was the 4.6L
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Old 07-13-2012, 03:36 PM
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5.0 is a 302, 4.6 is a 281...
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Old 07-13-2012, 03:37 PM
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Im pretty sure 550whp is possible out of a 302. Likely takes alot of work, a big cam and some really good heads.
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