calling out snake95\ other 5.0's!
11-19-2014, 09:21 AM
#1641
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You know whats funny is when something comes full circle. It happens to me a lot in here but not this time. To you though it has, you said you had built ls engines before and other cars. So has Hammer just bc he has a bolt on ls1 doesn't mean he doesn't know what he is talking about. He knows plenty about engines and how to select a good cam.
11-19-2014, 09:51 AM
#1643
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I would choose a street cam based on duration and LSA.
Typically longer duration cams classified as not street friendly due to:
-They have less vacuum. Brakes rely on vacuum as an example.
-During cold start ups as the engine starts to warm up and longer duration usually yields a few stalls with a stick car.
Having that said, I said fvck it, and went with bigger duration cams cause I frankly don't care.
-Mark
Typically longer duration cams classified as not street friendly due to:
-They have less vacuum. Brakes rely on vacuum as an example.
-During cold start ups as the engine starts to warm up and longer duration usually yields a few stalls with a stick car.
Having that said, I said fvck it, and went with bigger duration cams cause I frankly don't care.
-Mark
11-19-2014, 10:07 AM
#1645
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Although a huge LSA will hurt your vacuum, any cammed car should remain steerable with power steering
Just kiddin', I know what you meant.
11-19-2014, 10:13 AM
#1646
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Lol... do you think my LSA is big? Serious question, i think its in the middle yet we all know that i know very little about cams. So just wondering bc now you have me wondering
11-19-2014, 10:20 AM
#1647
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You have a pretty wide LSA for an aftermarket cam, if you ask me. Some guys would say it's middle of the road, but it's definitely not tight (usually more radical cars run tighter LSAs).
11-19-2014, 10:24 AM
#1648
You have been apart of SRK for so long that you even use it as the Tech section. Smh. Some of these guys here know what they're speaking about when building engines but most of them know just as little as you. Why don't you try venturing into the tech section of this site and actually do some ******* research for once?
11-19-2014, 10:43 AM
#1649
The general rule is that LSA equals idle quality, but it's not as simple as a bigger LSA will idle better than a smaller one. The LSA is determined by the duration and there's a lot of math I'm too stupid to do that figures it all out. The. LSA is not something just ground into the cam. For instance, if I wanted the TSP Torquer v.2, but wanted a larger LSA it would change the cam. So a custom grind cam spec'd for your specific setup can have a 112 LSA and still have a very smooth idle. At least I think that's what Martin was trying to say lol.
11-19-2014, 10:52 AM
#1650
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It's not really a matter of too wide or not. It's whether or not it works with the rest of the engine and I don't know enough specifics about your engine to tell. A narrow LSA often makes a higher peak HP but the curve drops more sharply after peak. A wider LSA likes to carry its peak over a broader powerband.
11-19-2014, 11:02 AM
#1651
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I would choose a street cam based on duration and LSA.
Typically longer duration cams classified as not street friendly due to:
-They have less vacuum. Brakes rely on vacuum as an example.
-During cold start ups as the engine starts to warm up and longer duration usually yields a few stalls with a stick car.
Having that said, I said fvck it, and went with bigger duration cams cause I frankly don't care.
-Mark
Typically longer duration cams classified as not street friendly due to:
-They have less vacuum. Brakes rely on vacuum as an example.
-During cold start ups as the engine starts to warm up and longer duration usually yields a few stalls with a stick car.
Having that said, I said fvck it, and went with bigger duration cams cause I frankly don't care.
-Mark
11-19-2014, 11:04 AM
#1652
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You have been apart of SRK for so long that you even use it as the Tech section. Smh. Some of these guys here know what they're speaking about when building engines but most of them know just as little as you. Why don't you try venturing into the tech section of this site and actually do some ******* research for once?
11-19-2014, 11:35 AM
#1654
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11-19-2014, 05:06 PM
#1655
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11-19-2014, 05:33 PM
#1656
The best way to select a cam is contact a reputable cam manufacturer and let them grind you one to fit your specs. I wouldn't pick one because some guy on an internet forum said it was what I needed to go with.
11-19-2014, 06:22 PM
#1658
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I can't believe I started all this cam talk. It's not a big deal. Look on Craigslist find a used roller cam that doesn't make your valves slap the crap out of your pistons. Install cam. Done.
Roller cams take all the cam breakin BS out of the equation. About the only way you are going to screw up is if you let Aaron Kaufman work on your **** at Gas Monkey Garage. I'm sure Murphy's Law is gonna kick my teeth in on my next cam swap over this one. Hate away....
Last edited by Jackie Fran; 11-19-2014 at 06:39 PM.
11-19-2014, 08:10 PM
#1659
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Lolz. your talented, changing your base idle while going down the road with a screwdriver.
Also your mazda is pretty cool, how is it to work on the motor? And does it have the factory rear and suspension?
Also your mazda is pretty cool, how is it to work on the motor? And does it have the factory rear and suspension?
11-19-2014, 09:34 PM
#1660
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Thanks! It was a tough build but it's really easy to work on. The Miata has a wide engine bay and I built the "kit" so that everything can be removed (except oil pan) while the engine is in the car. The headers can even come off without much trouble.
The rear is an aluminum 8.8 IRS with limited slip. It uses custom axles with broached hubs.