Nick.H @ the track
Havent had it to the track since the fast, clutch, cf driveshaft etc. I just got the suspension all buttoned up. Actually the lca's are coming in this week. Planning on hitting the track sat if the weather holds out. School and work makes extra fun events hard to plan lol.
Someone understands me lol
The bolded has been redbird555's point all along. redbird and the rest of us are telling Nick.H to get the proper bolt-on's/supprting mods before worrying about a bigger cam. Because a well matched setup with his current 224 cam will **** on his current mismatched setup with a bigger cam. Seems like we all, except for you, understand Nick can't afford a bigger new cam along with all the proper supporting mods, so we're giving him helpful advice with what he currently has to work with within his means. And you're basically calling us the idiots?
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The bolded has been redbird555's point all along. redbird and the rest of us are telling Nick.H to get the proper bolt-on's/supprting mods before worrying about a bigger cam. Because a well matched setup with his current 224 cam will **** on his current mismatched setup with a bigger cam. Seems like we all, except for you, understand Nick can't afford a bigger new cam along with all the proper supporting mods, so we're giving him helpful advice with what he currently has to work with within his means. And you're basically calling us the idiots?
When people were recommending what can be done to help the OP beat a bolt-on 5.0, I simply recommended he go with a larger cam for more power. Last time I checked, an increase in power is a good thing.
Having experience with the 224/224 grind, I know that even with all nick nacks you could throw at, its still going to have its hands full with a strong running bolt-on 5.0. Plenty examples have proven those cars can make 450+whp with bolt-ons and trap in the high teens to 120s if they're setup right. That's a hell of a feat for an average weight, 224 cammed car which might produce 39x. If you guys thought I was implying he throw a bigger cam in with no supporting mods than, that's your fault, not mine.
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Havent had it to the track since the fast, clutch, cf driveshaft etc. I just got the suspension all buttoned up. Actually the lca's are coming in this week. Planning on hitting the track sat if the weather holds out. School and work makes extra fun events hard to plan. lol
ASSuming On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2011
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The ****? I got 29mpg going 86mph on the highway with only a catback and K&N hot air intake. It went up to 31 mpg with headers. With my procharger and 80lb injections, I still got 26mpg highway and 16mpg mixed.
The bolded has been redbird555's point all along. redbird and the rest of us are telling Nick.H to get the proper bolt-on's/supprting mods before worrying about a bigger cam. Because a well matched setup with his current 224 cam will **** on his current mismatched setup with a bigger cam. Seems like we all, except for you, understand Nick can't afford a bigger new cam along with all the proper supporting mods, so we're giving him helpful advice with what he currently has to work with within his means. And you're basically calling us the idiots?
Don't get your panties in a wad now. No one called you an idiot. It seems a few were a bit intimidated by the advice I gave the OP. Funny thing is, the OP didn't seem to have a problem with it. Only the naysayers.
When people were recommending what can be done to help the OP beat a bolt-on 5.0, I simply recommended he go with a larger cam for more power. Last time I checked, an increase in power is a good thing. Having experience with the 224/224 grind, I know that even with all nick nacks you could throw at, its still going to have its hands full with a strong running bolt-on 5.0. Plenty examples have proven those cars can make 450+whp with bolt-ons and trap in the high teens to 120s if they're setup right. That's a hell of a feat for an average weight, 224 cammed car which might produce 39x.
If you guys thought I was implying he throw a bigger cam in with no supporting mods than, that's your fault, not mine.
When people were recommending what can be done to help the OP beat a bolt-on 5.0, I simply recommended he go with a larger cam for more power. Last time I checked, an increase in power is a good thing.
Having experience with the 224/224 grind, I know that even with all nick nacks you could throw at, its still going to have its hands full with a strong running bolt-on 5.0. Plenty examples have proven those cars can make 450+whp with bolt-ons and trap in the high teens to 120s if they're setup right. That's a hell of a feat for an average weight, 224 cammed car which might produce 39x. If you guys thought I was implying he throw a bigger cam in with no supporting mods than, that's your fault, not mine.
No one was intimidated by your advice, you're the only one that didn't understand that you're advice was not feasible with Nick's present means.
Last edited by R6cowboy; Mar 23, 2015 at 10:52 AM.
After I got the 102 tb I actually was scared of losing power due to the bottle neck of 90mm however after a lot of dyno testing and street pulls all my map readings were around 98-101kpa so there was no intake restriction causing vacuum and no need to switch.
Also for anyone reading the 100mm maf suffers from some low speed driving problems due to its card design. The slow ls1 pcm doesnt make the best assumptions from its poorer readings like the new ecms do.
and nick as far as a clutch goes, I have no idea what your budget is but you can keep it under 1k and still get a light setup. Mine is 33lbs so a tad heavier than hammers but you can build my setup for under 1k. If I had unlimited funds I'd get hammers spec though lol
ya I may look into it eventually when money isnt tight with school and what not. problem is finding a tuner who i actually trust down here. Dan@masport was the man but he's not doing it anymore. Geoff@nextlevel in orlando is good but thats a drive same with formato and in case I have issues or need touch ups they're far away. lashway by me sucks...and that leaves Howard@redline in pompano which might be an option but we'll see haha. for right now I know i'm not missing anything over a 100mm sewtup and just a few over SD so thats ok
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2013
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From: Dirty D, CA
I'm sure everybody has. But I don't have the money to keep putting into this car anymore
Exactly thats the thing having a good street tune takes a lot of man hours because hitting every driving situation is a pain in the *** lol. Thing is for me I know how to do street tuning so I could touch it up if need be but If im paying out the *** for a tune anyway I dont want to lol. My hptuners base doesnt support a wideband so I have to do it all by fuel trims which is SLOW going
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2014
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From: SW FL
Exactly thats the thing having a good street tune takes a lot of man hours because hitting every driving situation is a pain in the *** lol. Thing is for me I know how to do street tuning so I could touch it up if need be but If im paying out the *** for a tune anyway I dont want to lol. My hptuners base doesnt support a wideband so I have to do it all by fuel trims which is SLOW going
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...hp-tuners.html
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Couple reasons really. The z06 maf is actually 90mm I.d I've measured one multiple times and the stock size aftermarket lid thraot is also 90mm. So by budding them up and just using a coupler I made the smallest bottle neck on the intake port 90mm. I originally had a 92mm tb on the 102 intake which is the main reason I didnt go to a 100mm setup and SD would have required a whole retune of 500 bucks lol because I dont do that in depth of tuning.
I've heard of this issue with TSP and LPE 100mm MAF's. An aftermarket screen like the honeycomb from SaxonPC in front of the MAF usually resolves this issue. Sometimes its as simple as moving the sensor away from the bend depending on the application of course.
Last time I checked, NNSANE02's car weighs sub 3000#'s, and from what I've heard its going to be even lighter in months to come. <---This is why most of the LS guys in the street racing section make me LOL. You're comparing the OP's full weight, average setup car to a fawking fully lightented, MAX EFFORT, stock internal LS1. Apples to cantaloupes my friend. Remind me to never take advice from you. Out of all the SRK regulars (which doesn't include me obviously) the only member here with a car that runs worth a damn is HioSSilver. I got to admit, as much as people bash him, he's the only one running a solid number. Please show me where you, or anyone else in this debate can provide me an example of what you're referring to. I won't hold my breath.
Nick bottom line is dont listen to this guy lol sticking a bigger cam in your car will not solve any issues. Look at guys like NNSANE and some people in the drag section, none of them run big cams for their times. What they do have are well thought out setups with ALL the boltons which make the difference in the end.
One day I'll put this donkey dick cam in that's been sitting in my office, and I dare anyone to find a small/med cam car that can keep up.
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Of course it's going to depend on the setup. This cam argument is pretty amusing. The best way to go about it is to figure out your end goal before you put ANYTHING on the car. Then start with the supporting mods so you have a fast car before you even open up the motor. THEN choose your cam. Thats what I did and now that my car is ready for a cam, it's already faster than most H/C cars out there that did it backwards.
One day I'll put this donkey dick cam in that's been sitting in my office, and I dare anyone to find a small/med cam car that can keep up.
One day I'll put this donkey dick cam in that's been sitting in my office, and I dare anyone to find a small/med cam car that can keep up.
Can't wait to see the results. I've always been impressed with your car btw.
On my T/A I ran a FAST 102, Nick Williams 102mm tb, 100mm MAF and FTP 104mm lid. Instead of spending the coin on the TSP unit, I made my own MAF using a 4" Spectre pipe from E-bay, an LS7 MAF card, SaxonPC screen and fabbed up my own harness. IIRC, I spent a total of ~$120 for the whole setup compared to what, $230-240 for the TSP. No low speed or idle issues or SES lights either. The 104mm lid did rub a little though.
I've heard of this issue with TSP and LPE 100mm MAF's. An aftermarket screen like the honeycomb from SaxonPC in front of the MAF usually resolves this issue. Sometimes its as simple as moving the sensor away from the bend depending on the application of course.
I've heard of this issue with TSP and LPE 100mm MAF's. An aftermarket screen like the honeycomb from SaxonPC in front of the MAF usually resolves this issue. Sometimes its as simple as moving the sensor away from the bend depending on the application of course.