Originally Posted by HioSSilver

I think it was from 05.

Originally Posted by HioSSilver

Hey wheres jc dipshit at? Suck my dick ******. You asked for another 116mph bolt on ls here ya go bitch. Gmhtp ftw


[IMG]https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech.com-vbulletin/2000x1124/80-20160609_224226_3c8871024ea16f426b15a3d086db3e4d37 b19391.jpg[/IM]

Originally Posted by JC316

Nice try there chuckles, didn't think I would actually look into that article?




Check mate mother ******. It took a lid, 3.90 gears, LT headers, FAST intake, UDP's, stall converter, drag radials, suspension mods, EWP, no accessories, and a tune. All of that to run a 11.6@116.

Guess his 3 years of test and tune was wasted since you know how to make an LS1 run 11.96@116 with an LS6 intake, UDP's, 3.73's, and a MAF.

Like I said and continue to prove, you're completely full of ****. I was done feeding the troll, but I just had to come out of retirement for one last post. Anyway, back to retirement. Feel free to try and troll you're way out of that one.

Originally Posted by JC316

Nice try there chuckles, didn't think I would actually look into that article?




Check mate mother ******. It took a lid, 3.90 gears, LT headers, FAST intake, UDP's, stall converter, drag radials, suspension mods, EWP, no accessories, and a tune. All of that to run a 11.6@116.

Guess his 3 years of test and tune was wasted since you know how to make an LS1 run 11.96@116 with an LS6 intake, UDP's, 3.73's, and a MAF.

Like I said and continue to prove, you're completely full of ****. I was done feeding the troll, but I just had to come out of retirement for one last post. Anyway, back to retirement. Feel free to try and troll you're way out of that one.

Originally Posted by Deeohgie69

So lets break this down real quick, so I, and all of us understand this. It takes a lid (cai), lt headers, intake (with a stock cam, a stock ls6 will do just fine unless trying to gain every last hp), a stall (with our 4l60e equals to todays 6 speed auto...nice touch), gears (Which is a COMPLETE WASTE WITH A STALL) for an auto at our power levels, And compared to back then, but ok), UDP & EWP (which gains at least .8 tenths and 14mph in the ¼, or 25mph? ), STOCK suspension which has cut Many upon Many 1.6 60' times... and last but not least, a MAF change, which means nothing, because our MAF are good to 600hp. Did I get that right?

So basically, a LBO (because there's much more that can be done for bolt ons, porting, free mods, rotating mass, etc.. LS1, stalled, ran 11.60's @116... I'm not part of the Hio crew, but come on man, you gotta do better than that, no?

Listen man, I'm not trying to get into an argument. But I was just like you before I went to boost. I thought my full weight ta ran great, but after I started doing research, I realized that I could have ran low 11's with my setup and high 10's with heads if I had listened to the bolt on guys on ls1tech (not just SRK, but they know what they're talking about).

Here's the thing, 2V??? Come on man, I've owned one, I've done research after all my bolt-ons (on my 2v), and it's still at batshit slow car compared to an ls1. You have seriously not built an ls car to it's potential, and I'm not saying it's your, or anyonelse's fault that you didn't have the cash to make it right! But don't bash on it if you don't know. 2V FTW!!!

Edit: I edited this before I posted, 2V FTW>ALL LS!!!

Here's what a full weight, full exhaust, stalled, t/a with 2.73 gears does to lbo (cai exhaust, tuned), think 3.9x gear? 2v with a huge jump. He started at 6 seconds in, you can see his front end lift. Everyone knows it's hard to stop a pull once it's started. Well he was damn near going by me when I started. **** cars! I love the way they look and I love they way they sound, but they just don't run how they sound
[ul="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3C_MAuwILk"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3C_MAuwILk[/url]

Originally Posted by JC316

Let me try to sort through this mess. First off, I am going to nip this 2V **** once and for all.

My 2v was not your average bolt on 2V. Sucker was FBO, 4.10, and had a lot of weight reduction. It came out of the hole HARD, but likely trapped 104, so a roll race vs a 108MPH car would have ended badly. It was likely a 12.7@104 car, but I never could find out because the transmission was busted. It easily walked my LS2 GTO from a dig, from someone that could drive.

My 98 formula was mildly modded and it never felt fast to me, I think it was one of those cars that came from the factory as a 13.6@104 car.

Now on to your comments. A 99 car likely came from the factory as a 13.3@106 car and put out around 305RWP. Lid/Tune/LT/UDP/accessory bypass/LS6 intake likely puts it at around 350RWP, with the headers being the biggest gains, a FAST adds 15HP to the peak and lurks with the LS6 in the midrange. So 365RWP.

I think the suspension mods would help the launch, the subframe connectors will reduce the amount of energy that gets wasted on chassis flex, but that argument is better left to guys that are smarter than me.

Your biggest problem here is thinking that a stall and gears don't help each other, especially on a car that makes all of it's power in the upper RPM range. The stall gets you moving off the line, but really doesn't do much once you're out of first gear. Those 3.90 gears get it into the powerband so much quicker, which lets the car go quicker in the 1/4 mile.

That car that Hio posted on the other hand probably started life as the same 13.2@106 car, had the same 305RWP, but only got about 12RWP from the mods. You yourself said that the MAF does nothing, and an LS6 isn't going to do much on a stock motor with stock manifolds. In essence, hio claims that a nearly stock LS1 car went 11.96@116.

So yeah, if you can believe that, but not believe that a FBO, geared, weight reduction 2V can go into the 12's, you're in the top spot for newest member of the Hio crew.

Originally Posted by Deeohgie69

Wow, you don't know anything about stalled cars do you? And I'll take that spot, because no matter what you say, at least they know what they're doing and have actually made their cars run fast. You think a 12 sec 2v is fast and you'll get big gains from a gear change on a bolt-on, stalled ls1.

Not only will multiple people on here speak from their personal experience, but I also have real world experience in this. I was an idiot and wish I had listened to everyone on this site about a gear change being a waste of money with a stall 3600 or bigger. Try researching before you keep talking man, seriously. My car only drops to 5100rpms after it shifts, why do I need more gear?

It is Fact that in most cases, a gear change in a car with a 3600 stall or bigger will gain absolutely nothing from the change. Some cases people have seen .1 tenth, and very, Very rare, a few have seen .2 tenths. 99% of the time, at our power levels (500rwhp down), you will not see any gain.

When I changed from 2.73 gears to 3.42's, which is a pretty big gear change, my fastest times were a little over .1 tenth. But I am willing to bet my car that most of it was because my tune was fat with the 2.73's and it was fixed when I swapped gears. I can honestly say that it would have been less than .04 of a tenth, and most likely a dead wash.

The seat of the pants feel was a big difference and I would have laid money that it was at least .3 tenths faster, but slips don't lie. I should have listened to the people on here that know, but at least I learned something.

Originally Posted by Mappinsj

wow! What stall brand and size do you have that allows for it to only drop to 5100?

Originally Posted by Mappinsj

wow! What stall brand and size do you have that allows for it to only drop to 5100?

Originally Posted by JC316

Thats a damned good question. They will affect the RPM drop to a degree, but not that much. I've read several people with 3600 stalls that shift at 6600RPM and drop into the 4100 range.

Originally Posted by *Tips Fedora*

My 3600 stall only drops to about 5,000 rpms after it shifts. I also have 2.73 gears. LOL at JC thinking that a stall doesn't do anything after the launch. You think the converter just stops slipping in higher gears? Derp

And DOG has a yank converter.

Originally Posted by Deeohgie69

Yank ss3600 stock 2.5str

They have a chart showing the rpm gained/dropped after shifts on stall size, I believe it's on Yanks site iirc. Mine used to shift at 6500rpm, but I have never heard of a 3600 stall or lower dropping below 4900rpms. They absolutely do affect rpm drop that much, it's free to read man.

Yup, a converter at our power levels pretty much null the need for bigger gear. It does however feel a lot faster, but it's all sotp unfortunately.

Originally Posted by *Tips Fedora*

I have no plans of upgrading my 2.73's. I actually like the fact that I can do 110 in 2nd gear. And God knows what speed in 3rd. I had the car up to about 160-165 the other night and I still had like 500 rpms to go in 3rd. It pulls so hard after 130 also.

Originally Posted by 98CayenneT/A

My car was a 2.73 car and I switched to 3.73's before a converter. At this point I do regret it a bit. I run out of gear around 130 mph and tho I do not usually go that fast on the street unless it's 3am roll race crap, it would be nice to have them for power cruise were you can really let your **** fly but I have to shut down early with plenty of straight away left. I'm looking for a 2.73 3 channel 10 bolt to swap back and forth in with my 3.73 10 bolt.

Imo with having a converter gears are not as crucial but I think in my instance going from 2.73's to 3.73's would be worth 2-3 tenths in the quarter. Most of that being in the 60' and maybe a tenth down the line. Wish I had slips to compare but just my opinion

Originally Posted by JC316

Let me try to sort through this mess. First off, I am going to nip this 2V **** once and for all.

My 2v was not your average bolt on 2V. Sucker was FBO, 4.10, and had a lot of weight reduction. It came out of the hole HARD, but likely trapped 104, so a roll race vs a 108MPH car would have ended badly. It was likely a 12.7@104 car, but I never could find out because the transmission was busted. It easily walked my LS2 GTO from a dig, from someone that could drive.

My 98 formula was mildly modded and it never felt fast to me, I think it was one of those cars that came from the factory as a 13.6@104 car.

Now on to your comments. A 99 car likely came from the factory as a 13.3@106 car and put out around 305RWP. Lid/Tune/LT/UDP/accessory bypass/LS6 intake likely puts it at around 350RWP, with the headers being the biggest gains, a FAST adds 15HP to the peak and lurks with the LS6 in the midrange. So 365RWP.

I think the suspension mods would help the launch, the subframe connectors will reduce the amount of energy that gets wasted on chassis flex, but that argument is better left to guys that are smarter than me.

Your biggest problem here is thinking that a stall and gears don't help each other, especially on a car that makes all of it's power in the upper RPM range. The stall gets you moving off the line, but really doesn't do much once you're out of first gear. Those 3.90 gears get it into the powerband so much quicker, which lets the car go quicker in the 1/4 mile.

That car that Hio posted on the other hand probably started life as the same 13.2@106 car, had the same 305RWP, but only got about 12RWP from the mods. You yourself said that the MAF does nothing, and an LS6 isn't going to do much on a stock motor with stock manifolds. In essence, hio claims that a nearly stock LS1 car went 11.96@116.

So yeah, if you can believe that, but not believe that a FBO, geared, weight reduction 2V can go into the 12's, you're in the top spot for newest member of the Hio crew.