BLKWS.6

the cars in question were a4 and from a roll...HOW could they have messed that up.

300bhp/ton

How do people go to the track and run shitty times?

Face it, it happens.

Assuming that each car you ran against was a 100% perfect run for them is just folly.

Where they from a dig?

If so, a little too much brake stalling, too much wheel spin, letting off the gas abit, having the tranny in the wrong gear or try to manually shift could all affect the result.

Plus one BIG issue people always forget is reaction time. If you went first it probably took them a FULL second to react. That means to even keep up with you they would need to out accelarate you by a whole second, which would probably take a 1/4 mile if ET's are to be believed.

How ever had it been against the clock they would have been faster although visually on the street it wouldn't appear so. This is just physics.

If it was from a roll, the same applies. Auto's suffer really bad dead spots which would allow a slower car to appear as quick.

Leaving the auto tranny in OD/4th as opposed to D/3rd as it has to drop two cogs instead of one will put the auto car at a disadvantage. And we then come back too reaction times. From a roll if you have to wait for the auto box to kick down you can easily loose 2 seconds including your own reaction time. So once again if they then keep up they have actually out accelarated you by 2 seconds.

I'm not calling BS on you or anything, I'm just saying its a far bigger picture out there.

But I'll ask once again:

When you swapped from EFI to carb did you notice a significant power loss?

300bhp/ton

I think I may have found your answer from one of your other threads.

Now if it feels stronger then it makes no sense that you could hang with LS1's when you had EFI and you can't now.

As I say I'm not trying to be horrid or anything, just help you narrow down the problem. But I think that maybe you're car was never actually hanging all that well with the LS1's you raced, it mearly appeared that way.

Regardless, it highlights there's an issue as it can't feel stronger and be significantly slower at the same time. Logic dictates you have made an error in judgment somewhere along the line.

I think you may have found your issue here though. A good carb setup should have a very crisp throttle response, in fact carbs generally have better throttle response than most EFI setups do (won't go into the facts here and now, but it does).

So if the carb feels "laggy" you have an issues. Possibly tuning realted, jet size, air leak or fueling or even spark related.

Also your car should really not reek of petrol either, at least no worse than EFI did. Take this as a bad sign.

slow trap

iTrader: (22)

i say take it to a test and tune night after you have the jets somewhat close and run it again on some decent tires to eliminate traction issues.use new plugs and play with timing and jetting,try to have close to a 10 jet size difference between primary and secondary jets.

Sparetire

Wideband 02.
Wideband 02.
Wideband 02.
Wideband 02.
Wideband 02.
Wideband 02.
Wideband 02.
Wideband 02.

Car RamRod

iTrader: (1)

that 60' is horrifying, but regardless, your trap should be higher. You have a good damn combo, the right parts are there, however apparently they aren't working right. Giving up on it now would be the stupidest thing ever; you will never get half of the money in that car back. The first thing I would do is find some older guys who grew up with carbs and have them look at your carb and tune it.
Do you have any fluid consumtion? and hows the mpg?
You could also ask these questions on corral.net or sbftech.com, why ask for technical help on an ls1 site is beyond me, especially in the kill section.

Car RamRod

iTrader: (1)

He has a carburetor.
He has a carburetor.
He has a carburetor.
He has a carburetor.
He has a carburetor.
He has a carburetor.
He has a carburetor.
He has a carburetor.

Nate81Camaro

^^^^


Agreed - "my buddy in HS" (don't we all have one) had a 90ish 5.0 5 speed GT that saw the 12's on slicks.....and it was N/A and wasn't stroked...

On the other hand, one of my good friends recently built a 347 stroked pony that he spent a good 12-15k on (not only motor) and the best he's seen is 13.4's (while only 5 cylinders were firing properly....should be a solid 11 sec car when it's all done properly)

catfSSh

iTrader: (1)

just came across this, dont give up hope.


http://www.clickclickracing.com/rich1031.mpg




Quote:
Its a 14:1 306...its carbed....TEA Renegade port Twisted Wedge heads....solid roller.

The tire We're running this year is a 275/60/15 Goodyear Drag Radial

Nate81Camaro

^^thats because it's a 306, not a 302....those extra 4 cubes really came in handy huh?


btw - I hope it's obvious I'm kidding like a ****

catfSSh

iTrader: (1)

well then damnit who think he should bore it out??
just kidding as well.

the car should definitely be running a lot faster with everything youve done, so take some time figure out whats wrong and im sure itll get int he 12s

Heatmaker

Here's whats wrong with your car. When it was EFI it acted up for a reason, now you masked that problem that still exist with a carb, that makes it harder to find the original problem in the first place. Sell the Carb setup put the EFI back on liek it should be, and take that thing to a tuner and have them figure it out. You just tried to mask the smell of ****, by spraying perfume on a turd...either way if it smells like a rose, it's still ****!

LS1 Sounds

iTrader: (11)

Your point?

lxh89

Who put your heads together? Did they use a double spring or bee-hive style spring? If not, that cam will cause valve float/lifter pump up around 5500 rpm and just get worse after. By 6500, it would feel like hitting a rev limiter.

Like you, I once sunk some money into a 5.0 and quickly learned that to run 12s on motor would take a good chunk of cash, the right combination and some work. At the end of day, I threw the towel in and went with a late model mustang. I still have my hooptie but now the combo is ported stock e7s, stock intake and crane 2031 cam. It runs 13s

I had a friend with an Ed Curtis combo on his 302 and with a 3300# race weight, that car went 12.20@114 mph on motor and that was untuned! The cam it had was geared for street use. With a more aggressive cam, the same combination on another guys car went 11.70@119 mph (200# lighter car).


Tony

Car RamRod

iTrader: (1)

That would just be a really expensive way of telling him where his a/f is at. Doesn't seem logical bc 1. he does not want to drop another dime into the car, and 2. it isn't a small or precise problem we are dealing with here, it is something drastic; on a good day that car could hit 14.1 with the stock engine.
It just doesn't seem like an appropriate solution to the problem at all.

TORCHD 02 TA

iTrader: (39)

Stanger-

I know what you are going through. B4 i got my TA i had the slowest 96 - 98 gt ever made.

my car:

1997 Mustang GTS

GTS= No Rear Spoiler, No Fog Lights, No ABS, No Power Windows/Doors, No Leather, No Rear Defrost

Mods= BBK LTs + BBK O/R H Pipe + MagnaPack C/B, 4.10's, Cobra Axels, Steeda UD Pullies, 160* T-Stat, MSD Coil Packs, MSD 8.5 Wires, NGK Plugs, K&N, Removed Air Silencer, PI Intake, Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter, Nitto DR's

the best i ran:

60ft: 1.87
1/4: 14.01
Speed:96.28 mph

man it was a dog. had no weight with great mods jsut could not do it.


then i got an LS1 and it was all over

BLKWS.6

Lol, I feel that my issues are solely related to the carburetor. My car never lost when I was EFI, well, if it did it was a VERY MILD LOSS! My worst loss was to Galen, who ran 12.8@109. I beat him, but he missed a gear so I give him the win (woulda pulled 1.5 cars om me from 60-95 according to himself.)

Z3-M=tie
00' Z28 A4=me by 1 car
00? C5 vette A4= him by 1 car
Joewee350=tie (from a roll, he won from a dig, stalled auto...)
S2000=(Raced in 4th gear from 55mph and still pulled him)

Now Joewee350 walks away like im sitting still almost. Also, my throttle response is lacking, it wont spin the tires nearly as hard (It used to come on strong in 1st and haze the tires hitting 5K rpm, now it wont really do it). Also, yes, I smell a bit of Petrol...


Now, in for a penny, in for a pound. I have become this things bitch So I guess I am springing for a 600-650CFM Holley DP and the $150-200 to have it strapped on a dyno and wideband and tuned professionally. After that, it will do what it will do. Period.

joewee350

What I dont understand is how you were beating someone that traps 109, whether he missed a gear or not, you pulled him at some point...and even before the carb swap you only tied me from a roll. That was when I trapped 101. Just from that I would assume you had a problem before the carb swap. Or, like someone else has said, other things played a roll in the winning of your other races. Maybe they had a 1/2 second late reaction which caused you to pull and they couldnt regain. I know you are dead set on buying a double pumper carb now, probably should have in the beginning, but from what I have looked at you wont see much improvement in et between a well tuned vacuum carb vs. a DP carb. Usually the mechanical carbs are quicker but not faster. I will continue to be the guinea pig and run you until you beat me I guess.

BLKWS.6

Haha, thanks, yeah, My 670 has a dead spot off idle when I roll into it...this is not the sign of a well-tuned vac carb. I think that a DP is in order along with a good tuning. I guess I just like the DP idea

300bhp/ton

Or simly tracing what's up with your current setup. I can't see the point in buying another carb when this one should be able to work fine once sorted.

And it could be anything, all you need to do is do the R&D on it.

It might even be somthing as simple and stupid as fuel vapourisation. Where exactly have run the fuel lines? Are they sitting on the block or near the exhaust manifold?

Vapour lock would give sluggish throttle response in low rpms and probably reduce overall PEAK HP as well a smell strongly of fuel.

But hay each to their own, some folks just seem to enjoy taking the long road