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Lightest "street" K member out there

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Old 11-06-2008, 05:30 PM
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go with umi road race version strongest out there and wont break or crack like other companie's k-members have.

i have it no complaints
Old 11-06-2008, 11:36 PM
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Any reason your against a spohn k-member since they are the only ones that you can use the solids with?
Old 11-07-2008, 08:06 AM
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Nope. Not against it was just lookin to see who all make one that can use solid mounts without motor plates to compare everyones pricing.
Old 11-07-2008, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by BIG_MIKE2005
Cause I don't ever want to have to replace motor mounts again & I'll be giving them hell from a 408 on juice by the time the k-member goes in.

I just have no interest in stock style motor mounts.

I still see no problem with using the Prothane mounts even for your application.....
Old 11-07-2008, 08:49 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by UMI Performance
Our K-member features integrated motor mounts and weighs in 25 lbs lighter then the factory K-member. Also one thing we did different than our competitors... we lowered the rear tube of our K-member to protect the oil pan from any type of damage. Other set-ups leave the oil pan wide open and prone to hitting.
I have never seen nor heard of anyone hitting their pan like that. At the very worst, it could break the pan when slamming down from a huge wheel stand, but even that is rare. I don't get by you would "design" that into the K-member when there aren't issues of that. Plus pretty much everyone in danger of rupturing the pan from a wheelstand runs motor plates. Even in road racing I don't see how it would be possible, because you're on a flat surface for the most part. Only way I see it protecting the pan is if you hit a solid object in the middle of a street that is high enough to even touch the pan, in which care the driver would be an idiot not to drive around it. And I would rather hit a large solid object with the pan than hit it with the K-member, that would cause some serious damage. The only thing I've ever encountered on the road was a man hole cover that was improperly installed and was 3 inches above the road surface. By the time I saw noticed, it was too late to swerve because there was a car next to me. One of my headers caved in but I fixed it, no issue. Sorry, If you could, please explain some type of situation in which you would need the lowered tube to protect the pan
Old 11-07-2008, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by BMR Tech
I still see no problem with using the Prothane mounts even for your application.....
Eventually those will still need to be replaced. I daily drive my car 300+ miles a week & have no interntion of selling it off & starting on another like some members do. So once I swap short blocks & k-member I never again want to mess with motor mounts, ever.
Old 11-07-2008, 01:41 PM
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I let this chick borrow one of my convertibles
once and it came back with yellow paint scrapes
& dents on the (stamped) oil pan and a busted
(cast) pickup tube. Nice. On the Camaro it'd have
been the other way around. This way, I only got
oil starvation on corners until I lifted the motor
and figured it out.

I'd rather gimp home with a bent K-member
than a cast oil pan that holds none.

But I bet it's something like an artifact, that
they decided to call a feature.

If it doesn't come with a street-use warranty
against breakage, for a good long period, don't
go thinking it's a street part. Whatever a vendor
thinks, or even says. Race parts are for people
who expect stuff to break and are ready to deal
with it. Not daily drivers. Stuff breaks and if it
ain't GM-OEM-heavy, it's probably gonna.

Trust me, been there, and I'm not abusing my
car either.
Old 11-09-2008, 02:43 AM
  #48  
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i run BMR everything i have 2 cars and both BMR everything and what BMR makes in extreme duty they have that also and i must say they leave hard the formula dynoed at 378rwhp and it is cutting 1.52s all day long with best of 1.50

the other car makes about 449rwhp but due to a tight converter its only cutting 1.60s this will be better soon just gotta get the money right lol
Old 11-09-2008, 11:44 AM
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The abuse a K-member sees, has nothing much to do with
power level (until you're slamming down from your bumper-
dragging wheelies, maybe). It's just day-in, day-out metal
fatigue and the occasional pothole. Backing into the driveway
at maybe 10% throttle, finished mine off. But it had begun
to pull apart months earlier, from the way it was driving.

Not that it's the end of the world (if it doesn't happen at
speed), you can fix 'em or swap in another, but it is
inconvenient at the least. One of the most involved
"suspension" upgrades there is, so you'd prefer not to
repeat it.
Old 11-09-2008, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by BIG_MIKE2005
Looks like thats the one I'll probably be goin with then.

I checked UMI's site but didn't see a k-member without integrated motor mounts. So I guess you can't run their k-member with solid mounts.
I think that BMR unit uses a motor plate kit! If it is thats the one I have and we built our own solid motor mounts! I havent ran the car yet but hopefully it will be going by this coming weekend.
Old 11-11-2008, 07:55 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by BIG_MIKE2005
So can you not use the Spohn solid motor mounts with the BMR k-member?? If you want solids you need to run the Racecraft??

Just curious as I plan on a k-member & solid motor mounts within the next year.

Also on the Racecraft does it accept aftermarket as well as stock upper/lower a-arms?? I believe BMR does, but just not sure if you can use solid mounts on BMR.

Yes, the Racecraft one accepts stock or aftermarker A-arms. I have stockers on the one Im running for now until it comes time to finish the suspension... have the rod-end uppers / custom lowers on the shelf!
Old 11-12-2008, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by allmotor
I have never seen nor heard of anyone hitting their pan like that. At the very worst, it could break the pan when slamming down from a huge wheel stand, but even that is rare. I don't get by you would "design" that into the K-member when there aren't issues of that. Plus pretty much everyone in danger of rupturing the pan from a wheelstand runs motor plates. Even in road racing I don't see how it would be possible, because you're on a flat surface for the most part. Only way I see it protecting the pan is if you hit a solid object in the middle of a street that is high enough to even touch the pan, in which care the driver would be an idiot not to drive around it. And I would rather hit a large solid object with the pan than hit it with the K-member, that would cause some serious damage. The only thing I've ever encountered on the road was a man hole cover that was improperly installed and was 3 inches above the road surface. By the time I saw noticed, it was too late to swerve because there was a car next to me. One of my headers caved in but I fixed it, no issue. Sorry, If you could, please explain some type of situation in which you would need the lowered tube to protect the pan
The stock K-member has a flat plate that protects the oil pan. If you come head on with a man hole our K-member will hit the man hole before the oil pan where with others the pan would just hit and possible break it. This is a very important feature on a street car... just because you can avoid every bump and manhole doesn't mean every driver can.
Old 11-12-2008, 10:09 PM
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Im going with the UMI k-member, great price and great value
Old 11-13-2008, 05:32 AM
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Umi +1
Old 11-18-2008, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by SREETRACEGUY
i run BMR everything i have 2 cars and both BMR everything and what BMR makes in extreme duty they have that also and i must say they leave hard the formula dynoed at 378rwhp and it is cutting 1.52s all day long with best of 1.50

the other car makes about 449rwhp but due to a tight converter its only cutting 1.60s this will be better soon just gotta get the money right lol

Glad to hear our parts are working well for you and thanks for using our products for both of your projects



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