Hi,

I am not lowered or anything, but I do have hose mod and plan 2 do the perch mod when I get Konis. (So I will sit a little lower).

From what I understand relocation brackets are for lowered cars, but would I see any benefit from them????

I am not really into drag, more of a twisty road driver, that gets plenty of wheel spin when I get on it.(Esp in the wet)

Would you recommend relocation brackets for me??

 

After you do the "hose mod" look at the LCA angle at ride height,from the front mount, to axle mount.
F __ R Level = Optional, might help/ might not!
F \ R Angled Down = Good ,you don't need them!
F / R Angled Up = Bad, you do need them!

 

That's a great explanation of how to check, thanks 99Bluz28.

I bet they are level, which will leave me wondering ha ha!!
Ah well, I'll check tomorrow if the weathers good, I got my poly bushing to finish!

 

so which do you want....the axle side higher or the body side higher? i didnt follow your drawings

 

no. i think they are more for straight line. they helped me hook up. i have heard that they are not good for cornering. lowered cars can do fine with no relocation. this is just my 2cents. im not positive, just what i have heard

 

Body side a little, or a lot higher ( \ ) depending on whether your priorities are handling(a little), or drag racing(a lot)..

 

i'm lowered, but i was in the same situation. i could not hook in a straight line and driving in the rain was just a joke.

before my relocation brackets my lca's sat about 2.5" lower in the front(where it connects to the body). relocation brackets in the middle hole put them almost perfectly level. still angled maybe 1/4" to the front. that helped straight line quite a bit and definitely in the rain.

here's an explanation from frrax that explains it much better than i can:

"Slightly lower at the front will improve stability by inducing roll understeer. This is the usual situation on a car that has been lowered without relocating brackets.

Slightly lower at the rear will reduce stability by inducing roll oversteer. It will add anti-squat, which helps the car "hook up" under power. Anti-squat becomes anti-lift when braking, which can induce or aggravate brake hop.

A little roll understeer is better than roll oversteer. These misleading terms have nothing to do with understeer or oversteer. Think of roll oversteer as "positive" feedback, which is kind of like audio feedback in a PA system. Roll understeer is "negative" feedback. This is what the noise-canceling headphones use. Negative feedback (within reason) is a lot more stable."


"There are both bolt-on and weld on LCA relocation brackets. Welding the brackets on is the preferred method. These are brackets welded onto the rear axle which allow the rear of the LCA’s to be lowered. Lowering the LCA’s increases anti-squat. Many drag racers will lower them as low as possible. The downside to this is lowering the LCA’s will cause roll oversteer which will make the car hard to control on course and can be very dangerous. It’s preferred to keep the LCA’s as close as level to minimize the amount of roll steer. In fact it’s preferable to have them slightly inclined towards the front to provide roll understeer which helps in applying power on corner exit.
Roll steer in the rear suspension is caused by the fact that the rear LCA’s scribe an arc as they move. When the car rolls in a turn one side will squat and the other lift causing the LCA’s to move in opposite directions-which they do and in an arc. The effective length of the LCA’s being longer on one side and shorter on another points the axle in a direction non-parallel to the car. If they rear axle points out you get oversteer and if it points in you get understeer. Roll steer is unavoidable but can be minimized by keeping the LCA’s as close to level as possible. Drawing a picture with the LCA’s inclined down, level, and up, along with some imagination, is the best way to visualize rollsteer"

 

you only want it raised towards the front a little bit if any. having my lca's angled 2" forward was not good for handling, and i would imagine having them angled 2" the other way would be even worse as this causes the rear to push the opposite direction of the turn. stock they should be about level so even at the middle setting they're probably gonna be angled about 1.5" which i would have to guess wouldn't be that great.

do you have aftermarket lca's yet? if you don't have them already they're probably what you're looking for. they helped straight line performance quite a bit when i was at stock height. look into them if you don't. and get a set with at least one rod end if you like turning.

 

For clarification purposes Yes, you only want the front to be a little bit higher for handling, but more angle (higher) can be beneficial for drag racing.

 

Guys, thank you so much, I see now how they should be for what I want. Thanks for the info, I couldn't find anything like that info after searching, and you've really helped out my understanding.
Cheers

 

People who lower their car typically get the relo brackets if they experience wheel hop. For drag racing or doing street burnouts, wheel hop isn't what you want. I think even if you don't have wheel hop, the brackets can assist in putting power down better.

On the other hand using the relo brackets and the LCA's in the lowest hole can cause the axle to point outward when the car rolls while turning, which causes turn induced oversteer. So for autox or road racing not a lot of people have relo brackets. I don't. The angle caused by lowering the car does the opposite. The axle points toward the direction that you are turning slight (depends on ctrl arm angle and suspension travel). So it gives slight understeer, but not much. With this car, extra oversteer isn't what we need to keep the car under control in turns. I know I have enough oversteer as it is with my car lowered and no relo brackets.

Hope that helps a little too