Literally JUST got done installing Watts Link
#101
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A watts link would be better for drag racing. When you launch your car the rear squats down. When this happens with a PHB your car is shifted to the right of the axle, which isn't be good for launching straight. A watts link will keep the body centered with the rear axle throughout the axle's natural travel.
#104
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I would love to hear some more description about what you notice that is new and improved. I know sometimes it might be hard to put into words, but what types of situations do you notice improvements in, etc.?
Wow, there is a really big difference in the way the car starts and ends turns. It feels almost like it starts the turn before you start turning the wheel. For the most part, the install wasn't even really that hard. I still need to dial it in to my car and fine tune the thing, but i HIGHLY reccomend it, for what it's worth.
#105
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Very interesting, thanks for sharing! So is anyone developing a Mumford Link for the F-Body? ![Icon Confused](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_confused.gif)
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The WATTS LINK is the best lateral locator for the Fbody that money can buy as a KIT. Sam Strano is going to be the guy to hook you up if you are into it.
The only thing that is better than a Watts Link isn't made for the Fbody and is WAY more complex than a Watts. It would have to be totally custom fabbed as no one would ever make it as a kit.
It is called a Mumford Link.
After installed my Watts Link (thanks SAM!!) I did a lot of research into racing cars. I can only hope to build my own tube frame car which I will do my solid works models on it.
http://www.not2fast.com/chassis/mumford.shtml
The main disadvantage to the Mike Mumford link is that it is more complex, requires two mounting points, and you can't visually see where the RC is without some measurement. With the Watts link you can visually and directly see the RC as the RC is the bolt itself.
The only thing that is better than a Watts Link isn't made for the Fbody and is WAY more complex than a Watts. It would have to be totally custom fabbed as no one would ever make it as a kit.
It is called a Mumford Link.
After installed my Watts Link (thanks SAM!!) I did a lot of research into racing cars. I can only hope to build my own tube frame car which I will do my solid works models on it.
http://www.not2fast.com/chassis/mumford.shtml
The main disadvantage to the Mike Mumford link is that it is more complex, requires two mounting points, and you can't visually see where the RC is without some measurement. With the Watts link you can visually and directly see the RC as the RC is the bolt itself.
#108
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There are no plans for a Fays2 Chrome-Moly Watts link. If you guys want to waste your money on something that will save at best about 2 pounds, let me know and I'll be happy to look into accommodating you. ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Seriously the frame of the Watts link weighs not a whole lot to start with. The ENTIRE part is about 25 pounds including the axle clamps, arms, propeller, bolts, bearings, etc.
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Seriously the frame of the Watts link weighs not a whole lot to start with. The ENTIRE part is about 25 pounds including the axle clamps, arms, propeller, bolts, bearings, etc.
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
#109