Literally JUST got done installing Watts Link
04-18-2009, 02:38 AM
#62
Hey, if a turbonator actually gave me 50hp I would buy one.
Yes I edited my post. I had a bad day today and was being a jerk but decided there was really no reason to.
05-24-2009, 03:54 PM
#64
What concerns me, is longevity of the heim/rod end joints in a daily driver. I put 150 miles a day on my car, and I drive it in all weather conditions...how often will I be looking at replacing the heim/rod ends? Would I have any decent options that you could see that'd let me run something more durable (like whatever OEM's are using on their watts systems)...I would not mind doing a bit of modifying/fabricating if necessary to run some other joints (maybe currie johnny joints?). Also, are the aluminum bars helicoiled where they're threaded so thread damage/galling won't be an issue when the pivots are replaced?
05-24-2009, 08:23 PM
#65
I forgot to point out...I am going to put my car on air ride soon, and I REALLY like that the axle will stay centered regardless of ride height with them. I plan on having 1 ride height...but I also have wide rear tires, and I want to be able to drop the car on the ground when I park it...with any sort of a panhard bar, I'll either have a tire rub a quarter panel as it comes down, or an axle off center at ride height...if I was sticking with coil springs, for my 150 mile a day car, I'd stick to a panhard...I'm sure the benefits of the watts for cornering are tremendous, but when I'm driving on the street, at this point in my life, I mostly just try to stay out of trouble.
05-26-2009, 03:50 PM
#66
The rod-ends are super high-end Aurora's, not cheap crap. Not one complaint yet from F-body or Mustang guys with Fays2 about noise. Regular bushings or JJ's won't work, the ends bolt to the propellor and axle clamps and everything fits based on those parts. Also using poly will cause a bind in the movement of the link which is not what we want.
This is a situation where you need to decide on what you want. If you want a part as serious as a Watts link you have to understand that Jim Fay will not compromise it with deflectable bushings that can also bind.
And as for the Johnny joints... They are just spherical bearings that you can rebuild, no different in function than a rod-end but a good bit more costly and heavier too.
This is a situation where you need to decide on what you want. If you want a part as serious as a Watts link you have to understand that Jim Fay will not compromise it with deflectable bushings that can also bind.
And as for the Johnny joints... They are just spherical bearings that you can rebuild, no different in function than a rod-end but a good bit more costly and heavier too.
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
05-26-2009, 04:20 PM
#67
The rod-ends are super high-end Aurora's, not cheap crap. Not one complaint yet from F-body or Mustang guys with Fays2 about noise. Regular bushings or JJ's won't work, the ends bolt to the propellor and axle clamps and everything fits based on those parts. Also using poly will cause a bind in the movement of the link which is not what we want.
This is a situation where you need to decide on what you want. If you want a part as serious as a Watts link you have to understand that Jim Fay will not compromise it with deflectable bushings that can also bind.
And as for the Johnny joints... They are just spherical bearings that you can rebuild, no different in function than a rod-end but a good bit more costly and heavier too.
This is a situation where you need to decide on what you want. If you want a part as serious as a Watts link you have to understand that Jim Fay will not compromise it with deflectable bushings that can also bind.
And as for the Johnny joints... They are just spherical bearings that you can rebuild, no different in function than a rod-end but a good bit more costly and heavier too.
06-07-2009, 10:02 PM
#70
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How much fabricating needs to be done to the car to get it to go on, or is it pretty much just nuts and bolts? 
nevermind. Found it! haha. I just hope its user friendly and its easy to adjust so the car handles nice.
-True Bolt in design. No welding, cutting, and uses factory mounting points
Found it! haha. I just hope its user friendly and its easy to adjust so the car handles nice.
06-07-2009, 10:16 PM
#71
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No doubt that this Watts link is not cheap, but for what a Watts link can do, and what this design offers, I consider it an excellent value.
06-08-2009, 03:51 AM
#72
I have had my watts link on my car for only a couple of weeks.It is deffinately worth every dollar I paid for it.It's not an inexpensive item, but for what it does to your car it is a great value.The car is way more planted and predictable.The rear even seems more stable in a drag race.I talked to Jim Fay on the phone one time and he said that the best two things you could install are koni shocks and a watts link in that order.I would agree.I would also agree with the post from foxxtron.
If you want a cheap hobbie, Hot rods is not one of them.You get what you pay for .Food for thought.I think that Sam Strano and Jim fay are both good guys that won't
try to sell you junk and parts that you don't need.I am really happy with my purchase.
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2000 t/a ws6 with lots of mods
If you want a cheap hobbie, Hot rods is not one of them.You get what you pay for .Food for thought.I think that Sam Strano and Jim fay are both good guys that won't
try to sell you junk and parts that you don't need.I am really happy with my purchase.
____________________________
2000 t/a ws6 with lots of mods
06-08-2009, 09:56 AM
#74
It will work on a stock rear axle, or any 3" axle tube unit 9", 12-bolt, S60, but will not work with a Fabricated 9" type as there is not room to attach the axle clamps.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
That's my plan! 
06-22-2009, 11:50 PM
#77
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sam do you think that would work? i would love to buy a watts link since i still love to take corners.
06-23-2009, 12:25 PM
#78
A fabbed 9" has less open axle tube because of the way the differential housing is built. The swaybar still needs to be bolted on, and the axle clamps take up room, room I'm not sure you have on that type housing.
Maybe it might work, but there are few cars with that rear axle that would also want a Watts link. If you think you can make it work, then you are welcome to try but in this day and age it's frankly better to just say "no" than to say "maybe" because nobody ever seems to remember that maybe isn't "definitely". We're talking about not one, but two very non-stock parts. While the Watts was designed with a stock axle and aftermarkets in mind--it wasn't with a Fabbed 9" in mind. And I'm sure a Fabbed 9" was designed for a PHB, and not a Watts link at all.
Maybe it might work, but there are few cars with that rear axle that would also want a Watts link. If you think you can make it work, then you are welcome to try but in this day and age it's frankly better to just say "no" than to say "maybe" because nobody ever seems to remember that maybe isn't "definitely". We're talking about not one, but two very non-stock parts. While the Watts was designed with a stock axle and aftermarkets in mind--it wasn't with a Fabbed 9" in mind. And I'm sure a Fabbed 9" was designed for a PHB, and not a Watts link at all.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
06-23-2009, 01:47 PM
#79
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You can also add rear ends with the strengthening gusset on them to the list this kit will not "bolt" on to. I have a Moser 9" with the rear gusset and I had to make custom mounts that bolt to my swaybar mounts (swaybar mounts are welded to housing) for the lateral bars to bolt to. I will eventually have some pics of what I did
06-23-2009, 09:38 PM
#80
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You can also add rear ends with the strengthening gusset on them to the list this kit will not "bolt" on to. I have a Moser 9" with the rear gusset and I had to make custom mounts that bolt to my swaybar mounts (swaybar mounts are welded to housing) for the lateral bars to bolt to. I will eventually have some pics of what I did
Crafty little bugger... I need to move next door to you.
