Literally JUST got done installing Watts Link
#21
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ugh. More money to spend, I just read another link about this on a certain 3rd gen forum
which made my head hurt.
Anyone else tried this, and had an adjustable PHB before? Forgive me for asking, I don't doubt Sam or the OP but from what I've read the adj. PHB is a tried and true product on the F-Body but this is a completely new product for the F-Body. You could say I'm not one of those who will jump into the pool unless someone else confirms that it's not freezing. Another thing I'm worried about is noise, I noticed this Watts link has rod-ended connectors. My car is my DD and the drone on the highway from my Flowmaster 80 alone makes me go crazy.
I've been saving up for my suspension setup, now there's a possibility that I'll have to invest another $500, if I want the best?
It'd be nice to look forward to what the OP reported though, and to not have bump-steer. and not like it'll make or break the package otherwise, but is it available in black? If I had a white, black or red car I wouldn't mind red at all. But pewter and red.... ehh.
If anything, I honestly think I'll go adj. PHB then once more and more people confirm the product's worth, then I'll upgrade to that...
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Anyone else tried this, and had an adjustable PHB before? Forgive me for asking, I don't doubt Sam or the OP but from what I've read the adj. PHB is a tried and true product on the F-Body but this is a completely new product for the F-Body. You could say I'm not one of those who will jump into the pool unless someone else confirms that it's not freezing. Another thing I'm worried about is noise, I noticed this Watts link has rod-ended connectors. My car is my DD and the drone on the highway from my Flowmaster 80 alone makes me go crazy.
I've been saving up for my suspension setup, now there's a possibility that I'll have to invest another $500, if I want the best?
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
If anything, I honestly think I'll go adj. PHB then once more and more people confirm the product's worth, then I'll upgrade to that...
I think you answered your own question when you stated how coud have have tried on a 3rd or 4th gen F-body when one didn't exist until this one? And what's more they do exist for 2nd gets, which are leaf srprings cars, and the leafs do the lateral location. In that case there isn't a huge difference. And I'm quite sure that, assuming that moron isn't lying about having driven a Watts Link, it was probably on a 2nd gen which would not benefit.
Look, just google "watts link" and see what you get. You'll get plenty of feedback about them. Mostly from Mustang guys, because they've been out for those for a long time. And as much as some die-hards might not like this they are about the same weight and also use a solid axle (most of them anyway, those that don't can't use a Watts anyway).
Also, a reminder that this isn't some hairbrained thing someone just dreamt up. We're talking about a basic design well over 200 years old, and one that invented by James Watt (look him up if you don't know who he is.. but here's a hint: A lightbulb is rated in *watts*, and the dude invented the steam engine....).
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And for those that don't know, a Watts link is not a new thing. It's only new for the f-body. In fact it's called a Watts link because the guy who invented it was James Watt (you know the inventor of the Steam Engine). He first came up wiht idea in 1784. Funny how it only took us some 225 years to apply it to an F-body. They've been around and in use for quite a while on other cars, largely when stability which can also effect ride is an issue. A big reason why both cars like Ford Crown Victoria's and Chrysler PT Cruisers use them, but also why real race cars those run in the Australian V8 Supercar series also use them.
Looks like a KILLER product!!
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damn it.. i already wanted to swap out my front sway bar and go with konis. looks like i'll also be ordering a watts link in 2009.
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That's correct. And fwiw, 3" axle tubes are not the same as stock (which are 2.625"), but most 9's and 12's use 3" tubes as well, and the clamps fit those. It's the width of the housing.
Now, I haven't tried it, but it seems pretty clear looking at photos the two will not work together.
Now, I haven't tried it, but it seems pretty clear looking at photos the two will not work together.
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for those that don't know there are two styles of watts links the stantionary pivot point and the floating point. this system in the stationary and it is the better of the two. it reduces roll center by about half of the suspension traveled which is a very good thing. when I fab one of these for other cars this is the basic system i like to use. I many like building them for s10's that I've worked a lot with to make handle.
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my 83 rx-7 and 86 rx-7 both had a watts link in the rear.... and those things can turn. now if I can figure a way to get it to fit on a Midwest 9 that would be sweet!! Sam could we weld it on the housing versus clamp it around the axle tube?
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There is no sacrifice of ride quality. No increase in road noise. I have had my watts link for awhile and it is still holding up fine. No slipping on the axle mounts or anything.
Only inhibitor is the price tag. If I hadn't of put the manual rack into my car and gotten rid of my QA1 springs/shocks I am sure my car would be a handling beast.
Only inhibitor is the price tag. If I hadn't of put the manual rack into my car and gotten rid of my QA1 springs/shocks I am sure my car would be a handling beast.
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Your '83 did but an '86 RX7 was the 2nd gen car which also had an IRS, not a solid axle/Watts arrangement the '83 did.
The fabbed 9's are just not readily able to accept the mounting for the Fays2 unit.
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