Bigpapa_TA

iTrader: (4)

I bought a 2 point strut tower brace from LGMotorsports and I am having trouble bolting it on. My friends say that it should fit right on, but thats not the case here. When I put the passenger side on first then try to align the drivers side the hole on the bar seems to be off half a bolt. I called LGMotorsports and they finally shipped me another one but I am having the same problem. It looks like the plate welded to the bar needs to be turn counter clockwise just a bit on the drivers side. I have tried putting the drivers side on first, the passenger side on first, jacking the car up on the passenger side then loosing the bolts that hold the shocks in place. Any one else have any ideas or this problem?

Also I havent been in a wreck in the car and don't think it has been.

First bar


Second Bar

WhiteRhino

iTrader: (6)

I hit mine with a big rubber mallet. Went right on. I don't use mine anymore, but that's how I always had to put it on.

99problemz

iTrader: (12)

Yeah looks like you may need some help from your friend the hammer.

Shadow1999

Cars are made by people, and hence, not perfect. More times than not with after market stuff, you need to give it a little caress. Also ENSURE you are on a flat/level surface. If you did a search you would have found some instances where it wasn't and have caused the winshield to crack.

jsteele90

iTrader: (13)

send that POS back

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Obviously someone didn't read the instructions too well...You have to jack the car up, disconnect the shock/strut assembly from ONE side of the car or other, push the shock mount studs from that side of the car down, till they're almost into the fenderwell, THEN the brace will slip in place. Let the shock studs back up into the engine compartment, install the nuts, and you'll be good to go.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

^^Exactly. You can't do it with the Bolts above the mounting surface, they have to be out.

Bigpapa_TA

iTrader: (4)

HAHA...O so that what those were?? Damn I ran out of toliet paper and had to use something...HA. I'll try this. Thanks for your help.

ssgunny

iTrader: (6)

All that just to install a STB??? I like my SLP STB that bolted right on.

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

I admit to finding this a bit odd, since I remove my BMR brace whenever I want to do any serious work on the engine. It slips on and off quite easily. But perhaps other brands differ?

87formy

I've always heard jack the car up by the K-member and the STB will slip right on...

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Guys, you have to keep in mind the the engine compartment, especially the shock towers are configured in somewhat of a "V" shape. As you go up and down that "V", the space between the vertical legs changes.

Set your STB across the engine compartment, and it's at one height, but remove the retaning nuts, and install the brace, and it's about 3/8"-1/2" further down, so the studs are a corresponding amount closer, therefore the holes don't line up...the natural geometry of the engine compartment won't let them. Drop the studs out of the way, the brace slips on....


Yes, it's a PITA, sometimes, to work on the engine, as the brace needs to come off in order to do certain jobs. I installed my brace in late '96, about a year after I got my car. I've had to take it off a 2-3 times over the years, so I know all about how annoying it is, plus mine is the 3 point, so it's even a little trickier.

If you can get your brace on and off without jacking and dropping, I would assume your brace has slots instead of holes??

kyles2000z

iTrader: (8)

lol its not necessary to do all the jacking up **** yada yada yada to get it on. at least mine and every other one ive ever seen doesnt require it. when i do mine, ,i put each side on simultaneously. it seems that if i put one side on, and then move eo the other, its cockeyed and wont line up correctly. just get it positioned right, and smack that bad boy down. i recommend gettin the driver side in position first since you have to fight the brake lines running to the ABS a little bit

True Performance

iTrader: (1)

My UMI STB went right on no need to jack the car up or anything, took 5mins to install.

02T/A-WS6

iTrader: (4)

I agree here...never any trouble installing one.

I would say to either return it if you can or try and ***** out the holes with a drill or dremel to make it fit no problem.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Here's the deal...Both BMR's as well as UMIs braces, as pictured on their websites, have SLOTS to aid installation. The LG brace, as pictured here by "Bigpapa_TA", has HOLES. My LG brace also has holes.

Now I'm sure that there will be "discussion" as to which is better, but I think that "holes" are better. Yes, having slots immensely aids installation, however if you don't get the studs sufficiently tightened after installing the brace, the brace can slide around somewhat, negating it's effectiveness. Holes will not let the brace move...at all.

02T/A-WS6

iTrader: (4)

Im not saying that one is better than the other, I understand what your saying about the holes vs. slots

I havent had any trouble with my brace moving as there would signs of rubbing. Im just suggesting a way to do it with out going though the all the trouble and still end up with the same result...in my opinion.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

I'll second what LF4 is saying with this ...

Using a slotted version, you are relying on the clamping force of the bolt alone (friction) to hold the flimsy, wobbling, loose, flopping, stamped, double wall, steel inner fenders that see very little lateral loading in place and with holes you use clamping force AND bolt shear.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

That's because there is very little if any loading and not because of superior or inferior design.

Another attempt to convince many of you that a STB is of no use on 4th gen ...

How many times have any of you seen or heard of or read about the upper A-Arm bushing wearing out or needing to be replaced? Have you actually looked at how small they are? If there were signicant loading, enough to employ the need for additional bracing, wouldn't it seem logical that these bushings would be failing, especially after 10 years and hundreds of thousands of miles?

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

I like my Hotchkiss brace, the "feet" can be put on
with the nuts loose to get some play, pilot the cross-
bolts through with a fat Phillips and dog it all down.

If you have a few bits of fuel line laying around you
might be able to use it for a "guide sleeve" to bump
the STB feet down. Jacking the car by the K member
center might also spread the fenderwells the right
way.

Marked difference in the cowl shake on my convertible
from the STB, I consider it more of a low-frequency
vibration snubber than a structural member, but it
did remove an annoyance. No way for me to quantify
any other improvement or lack.