Problems putting on Strut Tower Brace.
Problems putting on Strut Tower Brace. I bought a 2 point strut tower brace from LGMotorsports and I am having trouble bolting it on. My friends say that it should fit right on, but thats not the case here. When I put the passenger side on first then try to align the drivers side the hole on the bar seems to be off half a bolt. I called LGMotorsports and they finally shipped me another one but I am having the same problem. It looks like the plate welded to the bar needs to be turn counter clockwise just a bit on the drivers side. I have tried putting the drivers side on first, the passenger side on first, jacking the car up on the passenger side then loosing the bolts that hold the shocks in place. Any one else have any ideas or this problem?
Also I havent been in a wreck in the car and don't think it has been.
First bar
Second Bar
Also I havent been in a wreck in the car and don't think it has been.
First bar
Second Bar
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
From: Vegas
Cars are made by people, and hence, not perfect. More times than not with after market stuff, you need to give it a little caress. Also ENSURE you are on a flat/level surface. If you did a search you would have found some instances where it wasn't and have caused the winshield to crack.
Obviously someone didn't read the instructions too well...You have to jack the car up, disconnect the shock/strut assembly from ONE side of the car or other, push the shock mount studs from that side of the car down, till they're almost into the fenderwell, THEN the brace will slip in place. Let the shock studs back up into the engine compartment, install the nuts, and you'll be good to go.
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Obviously someone didn't read the instructions too well...You have to jack the car up, disconnect the shock/strut assembly from ONE side of the car or other, push the shock mount studs from that side of the car down, till they're almost into the fenderwell, THEN the brace will slip in place. Let the shock studs back up into the engine compartment, install the nuts, and you'll be good to go.
HAHA...O so that what those were?? Damn I ran out of toliet paper and had to use something...HA. I'll try this. Thanks for your help.
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Obviously someone didn't read the instructions too well...You have to jack the car up, disconnect the shock/strut assembly from ONE side of the car or other, push the shock mount studs from that side of the car down, till they're almost into the fenderwell, THEN the brace will slip in place. Let the shock studs back up into the engine compartment, install the nuts, and you'll be good to go.
I admit to finding this a bit odd, since I remove my BMR brace whenever I want to do any serious work on the engine. It slips on and off quite easily. But perhaps other brands differ?
Guys, you have to keep in mind the the engine compartment, especially the shock towers are configured in somewhat of a "V" shape. As you go up and down that "V", the space between the vertical legs changes.
Set your STB across the engine compartment, and it's at one height, but remove the retaning nuts, and install the brace, and it's about 3/8"-1/2" further down, so the studs are a corresponding amount closer, therefore the holes don't line up...the natural geometry of the engine compartment won't let them. Drop the studs out of the way, the brace slips on....
Yes, it's a PITA, sometimes, to work on the engine, as the brace needs to come off in order to do certain jobs. I installed my brace in late '96, about a year after I got my car. I've had to take it off a 2-3 times over the years, so I know all about how annoying it is, plus mine is the 3 point, so it's even a little trickier.
If you can get your brace on and off without jacking and dropping, I would assume your brace has slots instead of holes??
Set your STB across the engine compartment, and it's at one height, but remove the retaning nuts, and install the brace, and it's about 3/8"-1/2" further down, so the studs are a corresponding amount closer, therefore the holes don't line up...the natural geometry of the engine compartment won't let them. Drop the studs out of the way, the brace slips on....
Yes, it's a PITA, sometimes, to work on the engine, as the brace needs to come off in order to do certain jobs. I installed my brace in late '96, about a year after I got my car. I've had to take it off a 2-3 times over the years, so I know all about how annoying it is, plus mine is the 3 point, so it's even a little trickier.
If you can get your brace on and off without jacking and dropping, I would assume your brace has slots instead of holes??
lol its not necessary to do all the jacking up **** yada yada yada to get it on. at least mine and every other one ive ever seen doesnt require it. when i do mine, ,i put each side on simultaneously. it seems that if i put one side on, and then move eo the other, its cockeyed and wont line up correctly. just get it positioned right, and smack that bad boy down. i recommend gettin the driver side in position first since you have to fight the brake lines running to the ABS a little bit
Here's the deal...Both BMR's as well as UMIs braces, as pictured on their websites, have SLOTS to aid installation. The LG brace, as pictured here by "Bigpapa_TA", has HOLES. My LG brace also has holes.
Now I'm sure that there will be "discussion" as to which is better, but I think that "holes" are better. Yes, having slots immensely aids installation, however if you don't get the studs sufficiently tightened after installing the brace, the brace can slide around somewhat, negating it's effectiveness. Holes will not let the brace move...at all.
Here's the deal...Both BMR's as well as UMIs braces, as pictured on their websites, have SLOTS to aid installation. The LG brace, as pictured here by "Bigpapa_TA", has HOLES. My LG brace also has holes.
Now I'm sure that there will be "discussion" as to which is better, but I think that "holes" are better. Yes, having slots immensely aids installation, however if you don't get the studs sufficiently tightened after installing the brace, the brace can slide around somewhat, negating it's effectiveness. Holes will not let the brace move...at all.
Now I'm sure that there will be "discussion" as to which is better, but I think that "holes" are better. Yes, having slots immensely aids installation, however if you don't get the studs sufficiently tightened after installing the brace, the brace can slide around somewhat, negating it's effectiveness. Holes will not let the brace move...at all.
I havent had any trouble with my brace moving as there would signs of rubbing. Im just suggesting a way to do it with out going though the all the trouble and still end up with the same result...in my opinion.
Here's the deal...Both BMR's as well as UMIs braces, as pictured on their websites, have SLOTS to aid installation. The LG brace, as pictured here by "Bigpapa_TA", has HOLES. My LG brace also has holes.
Now I'm sure that there will be "discussion" as to which is better, but I think that "holes" are better. Yes, having slots immensely aids installation, however if you don't get the studs sufficiently tightened after installing the brace, the brace can slide around somewhat, negating it's effectiveness. Holes will not let the brace move...at all.
Now I'm sure that there will be "discussion" as to which is better, but I think that "holes" are better. Yes, having slots immensely aids installation, however if you don't get the studs sufficiently tightened after installing the brace, the brace can slide around somewhat, negating it's effectiveness. Holes will not let the brace move...at all.
Using a slotted version, you are relying on the clamping force of the bolt alone (friction) to hold the flimsy, wobbling, loose, flopping, stamped, double wall, steel inner fenders that see very little lateral loading in place and with holes you use clamping force AND bolt shear.
Another attempt to convince many of you that a STB is of no use on 4th gen ...
How many times have any of you seen or heard of or read about the upper A-Arm bushing wearing out or needing to be replaced? Have you actually looked at how small they are? If there were signicant loading, enough to employ the need for additional bracing, wouldn't it seem logical that these bushings would be failing, especially after 10 years and hundreds of thousands of miles?
I like my Hotchkiss brace, the "feet" can be put on
with the nuts loose to get some play, pilot the cross-
bolts through with a fat Phillips and dog it all down.
If you have a few bits of fuel line laying around you
might be able to use it for a "guide sleeve" to bump
the STB feet down. Jacking the car by the K member
center might also spread the fenderwells the right
way.
Marked difference in the cowl shake on my convertible
from the STB, I consider it more of a low-frequency
vibration snubber than a structural member, but it
did remove an annoyance. No way for me to quantify
any other improvement or lack.
with the nuts loose to get some play, pilot the cross-
bolts through with a fat Phillips and dog it all down.
If you have a few bits of fuel line laying around you
might be able to use it for a "guide sleeve" to bump
the STB feet down. Jacking the car by the K member
center might also spread the fenderwells the right
way.
Marked difference in the cowl shake on my convertible
from the STB, I consider it more of a low-frequency
vibration snubber than a structural member, but it
did remove an annoyance. No way for me to quantify
any other improvement or lack.